Author Topic: Another attempt at a laminate longbow (Read 13478 times)

Beazley hunter · « **Reply #100 on:** February 19, 2018, 04:34:00 PM »

Shredd I don't expect that this will turn out a prefect bow. Please excuse me if I gave that impression. Unless I use somebody else's dialed in design there is going to be changes to be made. I'm aware of that. However, I'm not going to throw it away and start over. I'm going to finish it as if it were going to be perfect and learn more while doing it.

mwosborn · « **Reply #101 on:** February 19, 2018, 05:41:00 PM »

I would agree with Kenny - lots of fine work in that bow. I bet you can shoot well with it and if you are a hunter it will make a hunting bow. Your next one will probably be better - as we do learn through experience. That is the fun part for me. I have yet to make a "perfect" bow. But the ones I make now are a little better than the ones I made several years ago!

« **Reply #102 on:** February 19, 2018, 05:56:00 PM »

You are Kicking Arse Brudder... My first bows fell apart... Just puttin' in my 2cents... And pokin' a little fun at yah...
Same as osborn... I have not made a perfect bow yet either...

Beazley hunter · « **Reply #103 on:** February 19, 2018, 06:08:00 PM »

Much appreciated guys

Crittergetter · « **Reply #104 on:** February 19, 2018, 06:10:00 PM »

Yes sir, ill agree. That is a GREAT first bow!!
Like Kenny, i still have my first. Evey once in a while ill pull it off the rack and look at it just to remind myself how far I’ve come!

I can send you some black 1/16 g10 for reinforcing your overlays if you’d like.
Just pm me your address!

Beazley hunter · « **Reply #105 on:** February 19, 2018, 07:22:00 PM »

Thanks Crittergetter! I ordered 1/8" G10 with the moose antler. You think that's too thick?

Crittergetter · « **Reply #106 on:** February 19, 2018, 08:16:00 PM »

I prefer 1/6 but 1/8 is fine, just grind your antler pretty thin so every thing isnt to bulky.
You could also sand down the g10 a little if need be.

Bvas · « **Reply #107 on:** February 19, 2018, 09:05:00 PM »

The bow I’m working on now is going to be perfect............ until I build the next one

kennym · « **Reply #108 on:** February 20, 2018, 01:43:00 PM »

Yep, my next one is perfect til I find an imperfection...... :D

Beazley hunter · « **Reply #109 on:** February 25, 2018, 06:30:00 PM »

I found a little time to work on it today. I got the tips down to 3/8" wide and here she is. I'm a little hesitant to go any narrower at the tips, but I realize it's not a pretty tiller. What would you guys do? Go narrower still?

kennym · « **Reply #110 on:** February 25, 2018, 07:13:00 PM »

The tiller is not bad, I think part of what you are seeing is the riser is not deflexed enough to make a full circular sweep at full draw. In other words , the riser looks straighter than the rest of the limbs...

Shot it yet?

Beazley hunter · « **Reply #111 on:** February 25, 2018, 07:19:00 PM »

I haven't shot it yet. I'm waiting to cut out the grip and sight window until I have my overlays on. The moose antler should be here any day. Would you leave the limbs alone at this point?

Beazley hunter · « **Reply #112 on:** February 25, 2018, 07:34:00 PM »

And if you would leave the limbs alone, which one would you have be the top limb?

Bvas · « **Reply #113 on:** February 25, 2018, 08:04:00 PM »

I agree, tiller don’t look too shabby.

As far as top and bottom.......do a search here for bowjunkie and check out his tillering method. Mark the bow for center and assumed shelves for both ways and see which way your tillering string pulls straightest. (This will make more sense after you read his tillering method)

Beazley hunter · « **Reply #114 on:** February 25, 2018, 08:44:00 PM »

I'll check it out! Thanks!

Beazley hunter · « **Reply #115 on:** February 25, 2018, 11:47:00 PM »

I found some threads where Bowjunkie talks about his tillering method, but nothing where he explains it enough for my pea brain to understand. He talks about tillering from a fulcrum. This is a rough riser design I'm looking at doing. The line is center of the bow. Is the fulcrum at the line or the arrow shelf?

Zradix · « **Reply #116 on:** February 26, 2018, 10:47:00 AM »

I'm not positive...but I believe he means the rest on the tillering tree would let the bow tilt one way or the other if the limbs aren't doing the same amount of the load.

I'm also pretty sure the only place to rest the bow on a fulcrum would be at the deepest part of the grip.

BMorv · « **Reply #117 on:** February 26, 2018, 11:53:00 AM »

I have read through many of Bowjunkie's threads also in hopes of understanding his method. This is my understanding of it:
The fulcrum would be the balance point on your bow hand where the pressure is applied. Usually between your fore finger and middle finger, but will vary depending on the person holding the bow, how pressure is applied, and the shape of the handle. In your picture and the way that grip is shaped, the fulcrum should be pretty close to the center line.
You want to simulate the way you hold your bow and apply pressure onto your tiller tree. A rounded off piece of wood matching the contour of your handle would simulate the forward pressure of your grip. Any imbalance during the draw cycle and at full draw would be evident when setting up the tree this way as Zradix explains.

BMorv · « **Reply #118 on:** February 26, 2018, 12:07:00 PM »

I don't know the author, but this article helps explain bow balance and tillering for it....
http://www.buildyourownbow.com/the-truth-about-bow-balance/

The concepts should be the same for wood and glass.

Beazley hunter · « **Reply #119 on:** March 03, 2018, 08:29:00 PM »

Shipping got messed up so I'm still waiting on the antler. I got tired of staring at it so I did a little work today.

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Author Topic: Another attempt at a laminate longbow (Read 13478 times)

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