Another attempt at a laminate longbow

[Bvas]

I would get the sliver taken care of before drawing the bow too much. You don’t want it to get worse.
The overlay should be kept away from the working fades and limbs anyways.

[Beazley hunter]

Oh good call! I didn't think about that. I will do that tonight. Thanks

[kennym]

Depending on where the sliver of glass is , the trapping may help your bend.

I thought you had already done the sliver!!

[Holm-Made]

.004 total taper would take some pressure off your fades at full draw.  
On bows over 60# I like .050 glass.
I think .050 glass is a better choice for beginners because if the bow comes in over weight you can sand the glass down to make weight.

[Forwardhandle]

Beasley thanks for posting I'm sand bagging learning about tillering a glass bow ,  but I'm curious why if the taper rate & front profile is right why the mids would end up stiff ?  I'm learning a lot from your post Thanks !

[Crittergetter]

How do you know the taper rate is right for this design?
If I’m reading it right, Your first post said that you came up with this design? Is that correct?
It may take several bows ( and or changes) to get the desired results.
I hope this didn’t sound negative or judgemental .
If it’s any consolation... I’ve been working on my 3 piece design for over 3 years! I’ve made several changes and built dozens of limbs and I’m still tweaking on it.
But I’m a tinkerer! Just can’t help myself! Lol

[Beazley hunter]

I don't know if the taper is right. I'll go a little more on the the next one I build on this form. As far as design, I can't say it's my design because I looked at a bunch and did something similar.

[Beazley hunter]

And I don't take it as negativity. I appreciate all the input and help from you guys.

[Beazley hunter]

When you guys trap your bows do you use a really steep angle or really shallow? I started shallow. I'm still in the glass on the side.

 

[Beazley hunter]

The sliver is gone.

 

 

[Beazley hunter]

Got her up on the tiller tree again and I checked weight. 61 lbs @ 28" and 72 lbs @ 31". I draw to 31". I still think I need to get mid limb working more.

 

 

[monterey]

Too stiff in the outer limbs.  That design would typically be 1.5" at the fades and use a .003 taper rate.

If it were mine, I'd taper it down to needlepoint tips.  You can get there if your string nocks are in the overlays and the string lays down on the side of the limb.  Centerline needs to be dead on.

But it ain't mine so take my advice with a whole pinch of salt!  

[Beazley hunter]

Hi Monterey. How narrow are you talking at the tips? 3/8"? I planned 1 1/2" at the fades but everything didn't line up during the glue up so I lost some width. I'm gonna taper more on the next one.

X2 on Monterey... Go .003 taper and if it still bends a little to close to the fades try a power lam and I think you will be right in there...

[monterey]

Go 3/8" and then decide if you can go even less.

[Beazley hunter]

Ok I'm getting some moose antler ordered today. I want black underneath of it but what should I use? I have some 0.040" thick black glass but is that too thin? Or even the right material? Thanks guys.

[mikkekeswick]

Woven carbon looks great and is bombproof.
G10 is also very strong.
The black glass will work but is unidirection so has little resistance to spliting. I only use woven materials for nocks now.
I make some of my longbows with 3/8th wide nocks, you could go even less but only take off a little width then check for straightness/twist/tiller. If everything is good remove a little more.

[Beazley hunter]

Awesome! Thank you!

Originally posted by Beazley hunter:
As far as design, I can't say it's my design because I looked at a bunch and did something similar.

Excuse me for laughing...  But that cracks me up... That is such a Green Horn statement... Sounds like something I would have said a few years back...
   Listen to Critter...  If you think you are gonna pop out the perfect bow in a try or two, you are in for a surprise...  Although you could get lucky... You are working with dynamic, moving, bending limbs...  There is a lot more than meets the eye...  Thousandth's of an inch or a small change in radius can make or brake a bow...
  Just like Critter I been tweaking the same bow for over a year now and I am just getting close to reaching optimal performance from that design...  It's never ending...
  If you want to see how your bow should bend look at mine in the swap thread...  Its not perfect and its just rough sanded but it will give you an idea...

   This craft is the most challenging...  If you like a challenge, stick with it you'll do fine...  You are making a nice bow and it is a learning process...  I made over 50 bows and I still feel like a Green Horn...  Lol...

[kennym]

I would say that is a tremendous first bow. I still have mine and haven't showed it to anybody for a long time.