Author Topic: Lets try it with bamboo. (Read 6034 times)

John Malone · « **on:** February 16, 2018, 07:57:00 PM »

Gonna try again fellows. bamboo backed ipe. 64 inches t2t, 10 inch riser 1 inch wide out 6 inches taper to .5 tips. Mixed some white oak in with the ipe, BMorv showed me one of his first bows that had some contrast in the riser and handle that was similar and I liked it.

Pat B · « **Reply #1 on:** February 16, 2018, 08:17:00 PM »

John Malone · « **Reply #2 on:** February 16, 2018, 08:31:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Pat B:

Thanks for the encouragement sensei

John Malone · « **Reply #3 on:** February 16, 2018, 08:37:00 PM »

That's the way you done youre lemon wood bow isn't it Pat?

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #4 on:** February 16, 2018, 09:44:00 PM »

Wish you the best John.

John Malone · « **Reply #5 on:** February 16, 2018, 09:47:00 PM »

Roy, Pats scared and praying and it sounds like you're giving condolences. Is there something I should I know here.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #6 on:** February 16, 2018, 10:21:00 PM »

Well it looks awful thick and doesn't seem to have hardly any taper thickness wise. Did you pad the back and belly to protect the clamps from indenting the wood?

John Malone · « **Reply #7 on:** February 16, 2018, 10:42:00 PM »

Yes I put felt furniture pad thingys on the clamps. Its a half inch thick at the fade 3/8 at the tip. I also taperd the width to rough dimensions. It bent pretty good on the floor. I would have tiller it further but with no backing I didn't want to or know how to do that withut snapping that ipe. So I figured I would glue it up as it is then tomorrow when it comes out, clean the sides reduce the profile on down to shape, then finish the belly taper then start tillering.

John Malone · « **Reply #8 on:** February 16, 2018, 11:01:00 PM »

While your here how do you round off the corners of the bamboo? Same as anything else?

Pat B · « **Reply #9 on:** February 16, 2018, 11:03:00 PM »

I have all the confidence in the world for your success, John....but I guess we'll see. :rolleyes:

John Malone · « **Reply #10 on:** February 16, 2018, 11:11:00 PM »

Pat, we shall see. I based it on what I observed during the last one, as far as only tapering to 3/8. And I know for a fact I will succeed, just don't know if it will be with this one or not. lol

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2018, 05:08:00 AM »

Actually you want to trap the back with a facet then sand the crisp edges of it.

Go slow, you will get er done.

John Malone · « **Reply #12 on:** February 17, 2018, 08:57:00 AM »

Another question I should have ask before hand.
When you guys use dowels or whatever as alignment pins how does that work at the tips when you pull the reflex in? When I glue stuff like that I leave all the pieces a lil long, that way when you pull it down the pieces closer to the inside of the bend get longer.

Pat B · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2018, 10:00:00 AM »

John, the lemonwood bow was the first time I used alignment dowels at the tips and I never thought about the movements of each piece but apparently it didn't affect the glue up. I think next time I will only use the pins at the handle and not worry about the tips. They are easy enough to align.
I used alignment pins at the handle on the last 3 backed bows I made and it really helped at glue up time.

John Malone · « **Reply #14 on:** February 17, 2018, 10:12:00 AM »

Pat, I left the ipe a little bit wider so I had wiggle room. I used care with the first clamp to keep it centered after it was pulled into reflex. Then I checked the tip alignment and popped a staple in there, and proceeded to add the rest of the clamps making sure I didn't push it out.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #15 on:** February 17, 2018, 10:38:00 AM »

I drill 2 holes in the riser where the leather grip will cover them, then I drill a hole just along each edge of the boo out at the tips. Not through the boo rather right up against the boo.

If you are not putting a leather grip on the bow, you could drill holes along side the center of the handle area. I then put toothpicks in all those holes after glue up but before clamping.

Note the holes at the end of lams, the boo will lay down inside them when toothpicks are inserted.

Riser holes.

John Malone · « **Reply #16 on:** February 17, 2018, 11:26:00 AM »

I gotcha, that makes better sense than what I was thinking yall done. What do you fill those hole in the handle area with,tooth picks and glue, or do you glue it in to start and cut it flush?

Pat B · « **Reply #17 on:** February 17, 2018, 02:21:00 PM »

I slide the pins(dowels or bamboo skewers) in the holes and let the glue up glue glue them then cut them flush. The handle wrap covers them.

John Malone · « **Reply #18 on:** February 17, 2018, 05:11:00 PM »

Well fellows these may be the last pics that don't look like crime scene photos. I haven't done any tillering as it just came out of the 24 hour clamp down. I cleaned the edges and got the handle closer to finish dimensions. It has one inch of reflex measuring the way BMorv showed me, belly up. I put a facet on the bamboo don't know if its enough.
I did give it a push on the floor, it will bend. Not much, but enough I'm glad I didn't taper or remove any more belly wood than I did, I think its perfect to start the tillering process.
Other than rounding the belly over, is there any thing else I should do or do better?

Pat B · « **Reply #19 on:** February 17, 2018, 05:39:00 PM »

She looks good so far. Looking forward to seeing her bend.

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Author Topic: Lets try it with bamboo. (Read 6034 times)

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