HELP! Restoration. Finish is not working out!

[KSdan]

I stripped an old Pearson by sanding it down as much as I dare.  Seems like I am down to the clean wood on the riser. Plugged holes.  New tip overlays.  Looking good.  Don't want to spend a fortune.  

Step One- Not sure of the wood on the riser so I start with trying some Depthane exterior poly spray.  It stays tacky.  Assuming the wood is rosewood or similar.  Too oily I am guessing.

Step Two- I try to seal the riser.  I use an Acrylic Lacquer clear coat. 2-3 light coats.  Dry. Lightly sand it. Looking good.  Next- 2-3 light coats of Shellac over the lacquer. Dries in 90 minutes.  Heading to the some Hellsman Spar poly for the entire bow. . . but FIRST try to lightly sand the shellac on the riser- but the shellac peals off the Lacquer. Argh  

Clean it all off with acetone and steel wool.  Start over.  Fewer (2) lighter coats of lacquer.  Lightly sand.  2 light coats of shellac again.  90 minute of drying.  Sand lightly for the poly. . .Same thing happens again. Shellac peals off lacquer.

I was hoping I could finish this easily and economical with some poly.  I have acetone, lacquer, Spar poly, and shellac into it.

What are my options?

Do I use the Clear coat lacquer on the entire thing followed by some matte wheel finish?

Thanks
Dan in KS

[SteveD]

If it is an oily type wood. I seal with a thin super glue first then i use Hellman spar Urethane.

[KSdan]

Steve- Tell me how to use that. I did not post that, but actually that was my first step as I tried that by thinning w acetone and brushing it on. I ended up w a lot of milky smudges/streaks. Looked terrible.

Educate me. . .

Thanks
Dan

[kennym]

I use automotive clearcoat, it dries on everything I've used it on. About 8 bucks for a rattlecan at oreillys . Very gloss finish , but if you want matte , get a can of wheel coat matte finish and give it a coat or 2 .

I only put a couple coats on the flat of glass, cause I worried about the finish stress cracks like the old Bears get. So far, none, I reckon finish is better than way back when , and it isb't 40 years old either...

[KSdan]

Thanks Kenny. That clear coat is actually what I put on the riser to seal it. I was told that the polyurethane or spar finish would not stick to it. That's why I put the shellac over the lacquer thinking it would create a bonding agent for the polyurethane. At least I was told that would work. But as I posted, the shellac would just peel off the lacquer. Based on the replies here so far it sounds like I have a couple options to try. Sure appreciate all the input

[Roy from Pa]

Seal the bare wood with shellac first, then use the clear.

[C. Johnson]

Originally posted by KSdan:
Steve- Tell me how to use that. I did not post that, but actually that was my first step as I tried that by thinning w acetone and brushing it on. I ended up w a lot of milky smudges/streaks. Looked terrible.

Educate me. . .

Thanks
Dan

Get a few tubes of the thin super glue, not the gel type.  Put a few drops on the riser and rub into the wood with your bare finger.  Just don't stop moving or you'll be bonded to your bow.

After the riser is coated completely, let dry and sand off with 400 grit until smooth and evenly coated.  Repeat as necessary.

Like Kenny, I use an automotive urethane for clear coat.  I have a sprayer, but a guy can buy a two part catalyzing urethane in a rattle can from Eastwood.  It's about $25 for a single can, but it solves your problem.  Definitively.

[KSdan]

Not sure how you guys use the superglue. I tried it again and have a mess. It also makes the beautiful grain milky.  I guess I will clean all down again and start over. 5th try now. Argh

Dan

[Roy from Pa]

Seal the bare wood with shellac first, then use the clear.

[KSdan]

Roy. Why do I seal w shellac when the lacquer clear coat will seal it?  

My problem was not really sealing it w the clear coat, that looked great. The problem arose when you want to then spray the entire bow w urethane. The lacquer sealer won't accept the urethane.

I am seeing here that one option is do the entire bow in the lacquer clear coat. Then use matte wheel coat to dull it down

The question I have for Kenny. Rather than do it with two different clear coats, why not just use the matte for the whole project?

Dan

[Roy from Pa]

Because shellac sticks to oily wood. Then do your urethane finish.

[kennym]

I used the matte wheel finish on my hunting bow, it worked in the end but took a LOT more coats than the clearcoat. So now it's 4 of clearcoat on bare wood, 2 on fiberglass , then a couple coats of matte on the entire bow to kill the shine a little.

I don't even use poly anymore, it yellows anything white, clearcoat don't.

[Mark R]

Thats alot of back and fourth, have you ever tried True Oil.

[KSdan]

Can't THANK YOU all enough. . .

Mark- As appears here on TG, this has been a little bit of my experience in doing my research and asking a lot of questions. I get a number of ideas. Re-read my original post.  I agree.  It sure seems like a lot of juggling to simply put a new finish on an old bow.  But everything I have done so far has been based on suggestions/instruction I have found on various trad sites. Unfortunately (for what ever reason)- it has not turned out so well.  
To your question:  NO.  I did not try Tru-oil. Does this work without sealing the wood with a separate product?  (Of course, I already spent $30 on products here and I have yet to resolve it.)

I sure like Roy's suggestion of shellac and urethane (I already have these products).  Also like Kenny's suggestion as I like the way the clear coat went on initially when I sealed the wood. Hmmm.

Again.  I can't thank you all enough.  I guess I just need to keep trying.  

Dan in KS

[Mark R]

In my experience with True Oil it works all by itself, rub it in with a small dab on a cloth,dry's in about 4 hr's depending on humidity,5 coats good 8 coats glass finish, a latex glove and rag is all you need.

[Robertfishes]

Roy is right..I used Bullseye Dewaxed Shellac in the spray can over Rosewood then Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane with great success. I have some bows over 10 years old with Helmsman on them..But Spar will yellow over white glass or phenolic like Kenny said.  I use Krystal now with a spray gun, it needs no sealer over oily wood and dries in 20 minutes. I have not used Auto Clear myself but I know a guy who has used auto clear on a thousand (plus) bows..

[KSdan]

Can not thank you ALL enough for the education:

Sounds like 5 options:
1) Shellac and Urethane
2) Superglue sealer and other finish
3) Car type clear coat sealer and same finish (additional Matte for duller finish)
4) Tru-oil
5) A higher end 2-part mix type pro finish

Based on what I already purchased here and the needs for this bow (read: economical) and the fact I can always start over again- sigh!:  

Its a brown bow Pearson Cougar with tan accents so I am not concerned with yellowing.  

I am going with Roy's instruction.  Starting with the Shellac as a sealer, then Urethane.  

Shellac dried well on Rosewood.  Lightly sanded.  

2-3 very light coats of Hellsman Spar.  

I now need to wait a few days for serious drying, then I plan to sand lightly and give her another light mist of Hellsman.  

So far so good.  Best finish thus far.

Again- THANKS Tradgang Gang.  What a cyber place.

Will report back in a few days.

Dan in KS

[Robertfishes]

I would let the Helmsman dry/cure at least a full week before sanding it. It may feel dry now but its not fully cured enough to sand. read the directions on the can and see what it says. I tried to sand out a small run once after about 3 days of drying, it did not go well..had a do over on that one. Your light coats of Spar will cure faster than the medium heavy coats I usually spray.

[KSdan]

Thanks Robert for the emphasis.  Yes.  The can says at least 72 hours.  Thought I would give it that- even setting in front of a heater.  Thanks- I tend to get anxious on projects like this.

Dan in KS

[Roy from Pa]

Glad it worked out for you, Dan.