handle glue up issue?

[John Malone]

Ok guys, ive never hand a handle pop off. This bbi bow I glued up the riser and let sit 24 hrs then glued on the boo backing. I put one piece of 1/4 inch white oak then a one inch piece of ipe then another piece of white oak. After 75 shots I can feel the edges off the glue line. They are no longer smooth, its on both limbs were they taper down into the bow, sides are smooth. If I keep shooting I'm afraid it will blow, so what the hell can I do? If I heat the tight bond joint out I'm scared it will affect the boo backing. The handle is 9/16 of ipe underneath don't know abut making a d-bow? This is a pic after it was roughed out but you get the idea.
Any ideas?

 

[BMorv]

Pics of the actual area would help.  I never had a warning when my handle popped off.  It just happened.  Not sure man...Hopefully someone can help.

[John Malone]

Here is the area, cant see it but I can feel it.
 
 
 

[Wolftrail]

All I can say is I that I had that issue a few times.  The fade transition needs to be longer like 12" plus.  On a few bows I reinforced the area with some jute or end serving.  Hope that helps.  Gluing a lam on the back side helps to.

[BMorv]

I'm kinda surprised that happened considering you have a little bit of a pedestal on your ipe.  Looks like the guys on PA set you in the right direction.  Cutting it off then sanding it smooth and adding another riser with a good strong glue joint should solve your problem and it won't be too much work.  The hard work of making and tillering the bow is already done.

[Forwardhandle]

+1 what Wolf & Benton said  I like a long riser with slow sweeping fades I just measured my last it's not ipe but same concept the riser was 14 long with 3 1/2 slow sweeping fades , and  a good epoxy like smooth on , a friend of mine that's made 30 or more of the type said he never had one that failed doing it like that. But yours doesn't sound like its to bad of fix.

[BMorv]

And I like to make mine more parabolic in shape.  It helps smooth that transition from working to non working limb better than a straight line.  So remove the wood inside the oval.  
  [/url] [/IMG]

[Roy from Pa]

Just run a self tapping screw down through. Then attach yer quiver to it...  

[mwosborn]

Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Just run a self tapping screw down through. Then attach yer quiver to it...    

Heck yah...that will do it.    

[John Malone]

Roy, that don't deserve no answer, so lets light up and move along.
Any how, evidently there is some flex going on n that area. So no matter if I grind it off and re glue its still going to flex. question is how far back is it flexing and will it blow eventually? The more wood I remove the worse its gonna be. Seems I didn't have enough belly thickness to start, should have put a power lam under the backing. Or should hae left that pedistal longer.
 I'm gonna do like Bmorv said and remove some wood and get that transition longer, if it starts to flex that far back ill be in the same boat.
Then im gonna string it up and shoot untill one of us is dead.

[John Malone]

Well I sanded it back and will not sand smooth. The pedestal is longer now. I can not feel it flex in the handle, which doesn't mean it doesn't. I saturated the whole area with super glue sanded it smooth as possible and shot 25 arrows in the ground. There was no change.
Its not noticeable to the naked eye but I can feel it and knowing its there bugs the crap out of me.
I'm going to go with it. I think the woods are not very compatible for this application (sounds good right).
Thanks for the help guys. Also I will never do an ipe glue on riser with less than 5/8 belly.

[Forwardhandle]

Hey John if your really worried about it you could do a goat raw hide or some other thin raw hide and soak and glue it around the handle when dry it shrinks a lot and is really strong like a clamp & membrane thin. I have never did it but the stuff is amazingly strong. Couldn't hurt. Used it on other applications, I use the kind drum heads are made out of.

[John Malone]

Thanks Guys, I'm going to let it ride. It seems to be more of mental thing on my part than a structural issue on the bow. Never had this happen so I kinda freaked out.

   Thanks guys.

[BMorv]

Yeah I would just shoot it and monitor it.  Whats the worse that could happen, the glue line opens up, then you can look at other permanent fixes...And take a look at how Roy and Bowjunkie (I believe he is "Dances with Squirrels" on PA) do their handles.  No power lams and no pedestals. A strong glue joint and seamless transition from limb to riser will stop flexing in it's tracks.  I've done it that way a haven't had any problems.

[Roy from Pa]

It seems to be more of mental thing on my part than a structural issue on the bow.

Oh boy, not touching that one..      

     

   

 

[John Malone]

Nice bow Roy, go ahead and touch it, give it a lil poke you know ya wont to.

[Wolftrail]

You are doing fine John.
I have learned almost everything the hard way whether its woodwork, metal work, mechanics, building this building that.  Making bows is the most Humble thing I have done.  And there is lots of Wisdom and experience on here.............        

 Period point blank.  
 

[Bowjunkie]

See that angle where Roy's fade hits the belly of the limb? It should be a gradual curve like a ski slope or water slide, not an angle... imo.

[Roy from Pa]

Who in the heck wants the end of their riser looking like a water slide or ski slope?

Ya got pictures of this Bowjunkie?

[Forwardhandle]

I did the Ski slope one works good so far maybe 900 arrows !
 https://imgur.com/gallery/qfABM