Author Topic: Broadhead to wood adhesive (Read 2629 times)

Ari_Bonn · « **on:** April 13, 2018, 04:12:51 PM »

What is your guys favorite adhesive to use on a glue on broadhead to your wood taper? I don't like hotmelt as im always unsure if i will wreck the heat treat or not as I like to heat points up quite a bit. I tried gorilla glue unsuccessfully. I hear 2 part epoxies are the way to go?

Longtoke · « **Reply #1 on:** April 13, 2018, 04:23:42 PM »

beats me I have never used anything other than hotmelt. I prefer the brand big jim sells.

gsurko · « **Reply #2 on:** April 13, 2018, 04:31:33 PM »

You would need to way overheat the Broadhead to effect the temper. It only requires a nice warming up to melt hot melt.

hitman · « **Reply #3 on:** April 13, 2018, 04:38:12 PM »

I too use Big Jims hot melt.

Ari_Bonn · « **Reply #4 on:** April 13, 2018, 04:44:12 PM »

Quote from: gsurko on April 13, 2018, 04:31:33 PM

You would need to way overheat the Broadhead to effect the temper. It only requires a nice warming up to melt hot melt.

It always harderns to quickly before I can seat them nice and proper. I haven't used big jims though

Longtoke · « **Reply #5 on:** April 13, 2018, 05:12:53 PM »

A couple reason why I like the the hot melt big jim sells is that is melts at a much lower temp that standard hotmelt. I also find it to be more stable, and what I mean by that is that is does not become brittle after time or in cold weather. If you broadheads are not seated correctly before the hotmelt cools just hit them with a lighter for a few seconds and keep twisting them. If you are afraid to hit them with the flame, use steam from a tea pot or electric kettle. Like mentioned before you have to get the crazy hot to change the temper, and you will know you got the hotmelt too hot if it starts to smoke.

I personally worry more about not getting the glue/metal hot enough to bond well with each other.

Orion · « **Reply #6 on:** April 13, 2018, 08:01:58 PM »

If you don't get it seated right before the glue sets up, just warm it a little more and redo it. No need to take the point off, just warm it and rotate/push the taper into the head ferrule. You should have a spinner handy so you can spin the shafts to make sure the points are on straight. Heat and adjust as necessary.

Stumpkiller · « **Reply #7 on:** April 13, 2018, 11:07:11 PM »

Ferr-L-Tite hot melt for ALL broadheads and other points on wood.

I use a heat-gun clamped in a vice to apply the heat.

Ari_Bonn · « **Reply #8 on:** April 13, 2018, 11:18:27 PM »

Quote from: Stumpkiller on April 13, 2018, 11:07:11 PM

Ferr-L-Tite hot melt for ALL broadheads and other points on wood.

I use a heat-gun clamped in a vice to apply the heat.

That is a great idea!! I have aheat gun for the hardwood shafts even.

Sam McMichael · « **Reply #9 on:** April 14, 2018, 09:12:48 AM »

I use hot melt glue with good success. There is no need to heat a point to an especially high temperature. You only need to get it hot enough to soften the glue enough to apply it to the desired surface.

Hopewell Tom · « **Reply #10 on:** April 14, 2018, 09:23:38 AM »

I used the heat gun last week and prefer it. Much cleaner.

Tim Finley · « **Reply #11 on:** April 14, 2018, 09:25:55 AM »

I use epoxy and I clean the inside of the head first with a tapered brush spun by my drill . I sometimes use ferrel tite but it is more messy and you have to work quick to get the broad head on straight . I don't like the paint burned off my heads .

imbowhunt10 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 14, 2018, 10:37:03 AM »

XXX222 on Big Jim's hot melt. I have used apoxy in the past, Big Jim's is the best I have used.

Al Dean · « **Reply #13 on:** April 14, 2018, 10:53:43 AM »

Gorilla glue if you want more time to get thing just right.

trad_bowhunter1965 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 14, 2018, 12:06:32 PM »

I use Devcon epoxy 2 ton epoxy for years both carbon and now wood I can heat points up and remove them and it hold well. I have not lost a broadhead or field point in target.

kevsuperg · « **Reply #15 on:** April 14, 2018, 12:44:15 PM »

X 10 on big Jim's hot melt. Bought some a few yrs back at ETAR. A little goes along way
Works great on alum/carbon inserts too.

slowbowjoe · « **Reply #16 on:** April 14, 2018, 01:16:31 PM »

Big Jim's and moderate heat for me, too. I use a simple alcohol burner for heat, it's clean, quiet, and efficient.
And be sure to let your points are held on straight when seated, until the glue cools... it will often back the point out a little otherwise. (I like to hold it with pliers, or just apply direct downward pressure on a firm surface to seat it, then run a little cool water over the head).

Bisch · « **Reply #17 on:** April 17, 2018, 07:22:34 PM »

I don’t know why anyone would use anything other than Big Jim’s hot melt for any point/insert on any type arrow. It is the best thing since sliced bread as far as point/insert glue goes!!!!

Bisch

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

David McLendon · « **Reply #18 on:** April 17, 2018, 11:05:01 PM »

Ferr-L-tite a torch and a Dixon Broadhead spinner/aligner.
I've also used a heat gun which works fine, either will keep your hot melt warm enough to adjust as necessary. If you are overheating broadheads then you are doing it wrong, you are gluing, not forging.

Captain*Kirk · « **Reply #19 on:** April 18, 2018, 12:14:29 AM »

I was using the Ferrl-Tite until I ran out. It was recommended that I try the Kimsha melt from 3Rivers so I bought some...I believe this is the same stuff Big Jim sells? Have not used it yet, though.
Ferrl-tite can get brittle in the cold weather.


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Author Topic: Broadhead to wood adhesive (Read 2629 times)

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