Uploading video

[starshooter]

How do I load a video of my form for evaluation?

[McDave]

There are a couple of ways.  You can post the video on YouTube and then link to it from your post here, or you can just click the link for attachments below the box you’re typing in, and upload a video from your computer or smart phone.  When you attach a photo, you can’t actually see it until you finalize your post, and I would guess the same would be true of a video, but you can see the location in your post where the photo or video will appear.

[Rob DiStefano]

actually, no.  because videos can run into hundreds of megs if not gigs in size, we, as with almost all online forums, do not allow them to be uploaded to the trad gang server.  use any free, online video archive site as your point of upload, such as www.youtube.com

[starshooter]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrHRPphcibY&feature=youtu.be
This should work. I apologize for the clumsiness of uploading from YouTube. Took awhile to get to this point.Thanks

this won't work because the "&" and everything past it must be removed ...

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrHRPphcibY&feature=youtu.be

... to look instead like this ...

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrHRPphcibY

and then yer good to go!

[moebow]

star,  You have a good start but!!!!  you are not getting anywhere near full draw.  Your string hand is releasing WAY in front of your face!  Pull that string back until the string hand is on your cheek and the string is right in front of your eye, even hitting the eye brow.

Arne

[starshooter]

Thanks! Been a problem off and on as I was always felt that I was drawing short.

[moebow]

  Your feeling about short drawing was correct!!

Arne

[McDave]

I always enjoy reading Arne's critiques of people shooting, because he does such a great job of it.  Coming to full draw should help your accuracy because you can establish a consistent draw length, and also because it will get your elbow behind the arrow, which helps prevent right/left errors.

However, it will also increase the pounds you are pulling, and therefore it becomes even more important to make sure your arrow is within the weight range specified by the bowyer, as we were discussing in a different string of posts.

[Rob DiStefano]

looks much more like a holding weight issue ..... and if so, a classic case of "over bowing" that might be remedied by intently doing overdraw reps sans arrow, 2 or three times a day, only 5 reps for starters and build up slowly.  this way, the archer gets to fit and keep the bow.

[starshooter]

I am of two minds over this. I am 70 yrs and sometimes think I'd be happier
With a lighter draw say around 35. I am a believer in the relaxed power . No straining. The bow actually will draw itself if done right so it seems. Wondered if string follow made it harder to go the final inch . It seems like I am stretching it
and when I release the arrow they land left of center. In fact. Some of my better
Groups (clustering like wasps in a nest)are in the upper left of target face .
Now if only I could only bring them closer to center....

[Rob DiStefano]

charles, what is the weight listed on yer bow?

by not coming to full draw and using yer back muscles, and having a "floating anchor", there is no consistency to the shot process.

[starshooter]

Exactly , that's the problem. Either 42 pounds is difficult , or I have developed a. Bad habit . I can tell you that when I relax and not stretch the arrows go to center. When I pull that last inch full expansion of chest the arrows fly left almost to a T. Arrows are too stiff? , my form collapses on the release?Either I shorten my draw to 25" or lighten my pull load to 35 lbs. Mystery.
My bow is 42#@ 26" 66" stringfollow. Thanks
 

[Rob DiStefano]

if there is any amount of struggle to get that last inch of draw length set into your back, it's a form issue due to too much holding weight.

[starshooter]

Bob, I spent an hour working on my draw and anchor. No there is not a struggle to reach the full draw but I think a two week regimen of pulling to full draw holding a few secs the slowly letting down maybe 5 -10 reps could possibly reorient my habits in the right direction I then stand 5yds away from target and shoot 6-7 rounds of arrows.
I need to get my camera  crew back 😆and get a longer film clip of my practice. That way I can see whether I am reaching full draw.
A tripod designed to hold a cell phone.Do they exist?
What's the limit time wise of a video trailer posted on this site? Thanks!

[Rob DiStefano]

there is no limit to any posted video time length.

perhaps the best bow exercise is to just use the bow.  keep yer form and pull past your draw length, a good inch.  hold for a few seconds.  do very comfortable reps, don't wanna get hurt and going slow and easy is the right process.  start off with reps of only five, two to three times a day.  you'll know when to *slightly* increase.

"form" - for me, that means keeping the arrow, the drawing arm, and the bow arm in continuous parallel alignment.

[starshooter]

The alignment of drawing arm and the elbow in line is something I get.
I have seen a number of people shoot with high elbow. Bad form? I
I find that I can pull almost to the back of the field point . Arrows are 27" bop. Aluminum 27" just need to reprogram my muscles ( hopefully).
I am putting carbons on hold for now. Don't want to destroy my bow!
I see your photo and the glasses , do they ever interfere with bow string? Thanks!

[McDave]

If you’re hitting the center when you’re short drawing but hitting left at full draw, it could be something as simple as having the arrow lined up under your eye when you short draw, but pulling it out of alignment on the side of your face when you come to full draw. There are a hundred ways to miss left, but you might as well start by eliminating this one.

[Rob DiStefano]

The alignment of drawing arm and the elbow in line is something I get.
I have seen a number of people shoot with high elbow. Bad form?

not necessarily.  we're all different, and whatever works for consistent accuracy is all that matters.  however, that said, good mechanical alignment adds to efficient consistency.  in particular, allowing the back muscles to do their job. 

I find that I can pull almost to the back of the field point . Arrows are 27" bop. Aluminum 27" just need to reprogram my muscles ( hopefully).
I am putting carbons on hold for now. Don't want to destroy my bow!

i love woodies, and i build them, shoot them, hunt with them.  however, they are no where near as consistent as carbons.  with that in mind, using carbons at least for practice will mean you can't blame the arrow for a miss or poor group.

I see your photo and the glasses , do they ever interfere with bow string?

nope, never.  head alignment takes care of that.

Thanks!

you are most welcome, i hope some of my jibber jabber helps you.

[starshooter]

I loved and love POC as well. I have been until recently shooting with Wapiti Archery tapered shafts cut to  28". I taper and fletch myself. They fly pretty straight probably due to 5" feather. Tapered shafts 11/32 -5/16 45-50# ( 50-55 when cut to 27")
I think aluminums and carbons give me better trajectory and and speed. Not romantic and  they are cold to touch but at this time I am liking the speed and distance they travel by comparison..  I shoot a light bow as you know and with a short (comparitively) draw. Just want to put more aces in my hand.

Have any of you worked with a clicker? How does that work ? Any good? Thanks

[Rob DiStefano]

a 19/64" to 15/64" carbon will simply have a better flight coefficient than a 22/64" to 20/64" woodie.   with light holding weight bows, a more streamlined feather might be of some kinda help, too.

i would highly recommend to NOT use a clicker.  back in my freestyle limited and unlimited target archery dayze i used them as draw checks, and not as a command to release.  these dayze of longbows, i use the back of the point as a draw check against my bowhand.  maintain a push/pull back tension as the point back is touching skin, let go as need be.