Carbon Express Heritage

[MOstate]

My mom was wonderful enough to give me a early birthday present. 12, 250 full length(33in) CX Heritages with 5in right wing...um, non sheild? But I have bare shafted them and the only thing I have to do now is move the nock. But they love 100grns up front, for a total arrow weight of 481.7 grains out of a 58# Grizzly. They fly very well, but is this enough? For deer, maybe(very long shot) hogs? They seem really light even next to my compound arrows (350grns).I havent cut anything inches off the arrow and my draw is 29in. Any help on weighing these without changing arrows would be great.

[Carbon Caster]

If you were shooting a 45# bow, the "EXPERTS" would tell you that you were shooting a correct weight arrow for your setup that would be VERY effective on big game.  What amazes me, is that these same "EXPERTS" will tell you that you will bounce off of a deer with the same arrow being propelled from a 58# bow.  LOL!!!!  I "PERSONALLY" see no reason to not hunt any big game critter on this continent with that setup with the proper broadhead choice.  About ANY cut on contact head should perform flawlessly on whitetail, and a narrower 2 blade SCARY SHARP should be good medicine for porkers.  BTW my "EXPERT" comments were not directed as actual experts such as the good Doc. Asby, but rather at the computer experts that regurgitate what they hear without any firsthand knowledge.I shot a Moose and a whitetail with just a touch heavier arrow last year and a few pound lighter bow, and heaven forbid a 3BLADE HEAD!!!  LOL!!!  I sure am glad the critters don't read threads on the internet, otherwise they may not have known they were supposed to die.  LOL!!

That said, if you WANT to shoot a heavier arrow and your set up is tuned perfectly now, you could cut 3 inches off of them and add point weight until they tune correctly again.  If they are tuned perfectly from your bow now and they are flying perfectly, I would just shoot them and DARE any critter to get in front of a sharp broadhead on the front of one of my 481.7 grain arrows.

Happy birthday and congrats on having a great MOM!!!

[MOstate]

Lol thanks and I wasnt sure on this. Deer season being in September and all. But I was thinking Magnus Stingers (100grn) and I already have three Muzzy Phantoms at the same wieght. If i was to have a chance at hogs, a 125 Muzzy w/o bleeder is 105grns.

But when I say early, I mean my birthdays in May!

[Carbon Caster]

If the heads are SHARP and the arrow is flying perfectly I see NO problem.  Personally from tuning CX Heritage arrows, I would think them a bit stiff in spine with that set up, but we all shoot differently.  Spend your energy on making sure the arrow is tuned perfectly, shooting accurately, and everything else is just fluff.

YOU HAVE A REALLY GREAT MOM!!  LOL!!!

Go kill something already!!  HA HA!!

[MOstate]

All right, thanks and I've only bareshafted to about 13 yards right now. So it's still up in the air but not by much.

Thanks, and turkey season opens In April and we have a youth hunt here too! Also, it still is coyote season... he he he

[LKH]

I shoot the CE Terminator hunters and put 100 grain brass inserts in the front for elk.  Works fine.  Nothing works if you whack heavy bone.

[Shawn Leonard]

Keep them full length and you will be ok spine wise, any shorter they will be stiff with only 100 grain point weight. As  long as ya have 8gpp. you will be good to go on most big game in North America, if ya could shorten them a bit and add more weight up front ya could hunt anything in NA with that set-up. Shawn

[CJC]

while i beleive that it is true that you could go out and hunt any game you want with that, i also beleive that you could cut those shafts put way more weight up front and get them to fly just as good.  some times we stop short of finding the "perfect" set up because our bareshafts fly well. in my poinion i think you should be shooting 550 to 600 grains of overall weight.  quieter bow, more energy transfer, better penetration IMHO.  of course in the end its whatever gets it in the x ring!

[MOstate]

Well thats the thing, I would like to be shooting around 600 grns with a heavier weight up front. But I don't know how to accomplish this without weaken the spine. If I can, I was thinking about again Stingers but 150, or the 150 WW. I can cut them down to 30in, and I have 125grn tips and ONE 145. I've heard about the brass inserts and weight tubes but I dont know if these will weaken the spine. If im confusing you sorry, and thanks for the help

[snag]

If your draw is 29" you should be able to cut them down, a little at time, and use a 50 or 100gr.insert with 125gr. tips. I would think you will be able to get them down to around 30".

[MOstate]

Would those bareshaft well? I'm getting frusterated with this. Also, where would be a good place to look for the inserts? I did the math and the total arrow weight with the 100grn insert and 125grn tip is 573.7, so roughly about 10grns per pound of draw. Which is heavy enough for me.

[oldskool]

MOstate, Let me know how it works out.I want to try Heritage 250's with a 190 Simmons intercepter out of my Black Widow 57#@29.I was thinking along the same line as you.

[MOstate]

Ok oldskool, will do. They are some of the toughest arrows I've ever shot. Including some Beman and other CX's.
But what about weight tubes? Would they weaken the spine? And would the inserts weaken them as well? Or would they stay the same with either?

[oldskool]

Don't know about weight tubes,never used them.I don,t think I would like them.From what I understand, the more weight you put up front the more it weakens the spine.you see what I would like to use.What I was going to try was this set up and bare shaft, cutting off a little at a time to get just a little on the weak side spine, then fleatch them.that should give me a beutifull flying arrow.If I,m wrong someone please correct me.

[SCATTERSHOT]

Work slowly and carefully. If the shafts turn out slightly too weak, you can build out your sideplate with a matchstick or a piece of leather to compensate. People have a tendency to overthink these things.

[MOstate]

Well that's the thing. I dont know, this is my first real year of trad bows and i thought i could get some medium-heavy arrows and be fine. Boy was I wrong! lol
But I'm going to work up some money for the inserts and then get the shafts cut to 30" and I'll go from there. I like the way Snag said to try, so what happens, happens

[oldskool]

Thanks for reminding me.I've been thinking and researching this project since the end of Jan. Just now getting time to to do it. I want to try to do it right the first time.

[MOstate]

Haha same here, I've tried carbons and aluminums. The first set of both were way to light. Then Badger Arrows was nice enough to send me six 2016 easton blues that fly awesome! I haven't bareshatfed them yet. And then these CX's, that are awesome as well. But they seem kinda of light and the bow makes a werid noise(to me) whenever i release. And with a heavier arrow, I can't even tell I let go.

[Paul Mattson]

Hey Joe,
       What you need to do is slow down.  Take a step back and just shoot.  Work on your form first.  Once you get your arrows grouping in the same spot on the target every time,and not so much in the center but just grouping.  Then you can work on the fine tuning.  Now get out there and have fun.

[MOstate]

Well, I really have a hard time doing that, slowing down that is. But with great thanks to you, I have been, arrows touching in the spot im concentrating on to 15 yards. If slowing down is the best answer for now, I guess I'll have to try that. I just like to know everythings in working order before I try to hunt with it.