3pc hybrid take-down questions

[Kopper1013]

Hey guys

So I’m getting things together to attempt my first hybrid take-down. I’ve checked as many old posts as I think I could find but still came up with a couple questions.

First: forms.... how do you build your limb forms?
I guess I’m wondering how you keep the limb wedge in during glue up, I’ll be using/making a fire hose form. What do yours look like?

Do you doing anything special and or different when gluing up the limbs than if you where gluing up a one piece bow?

Second: limb pad angles... how are you guys cutting your pad angles? Did you build a jig? If so what dose it look like?

Third: limb taper....When you cut your limbs do you begin you limb taper to nocks st the end of you limb wedges or is it ok to start taper as soon as limb no longer is in contact with the riser?

Lastly more of a general design question
Looking for some basic limb dimensions.
I’ve designed a riser and moderate D/R limb with an 11 degree pad angle, I’m shooting for a 60” ntn bow.
Do any of you have a guess or found a design for limb width at wedge to 1/2” at nocks that you like? Also a rough stack estimation for a 60” hybrid 55# at 28”

[Kopper1013]

TTT

[kennym]

First: forms.... how do you build your limb forms?
I guess I’m wondering how you keep the limb wedge in during glue up, I’ll be using/making a fire hose form. What do yours look like?   ---------------They look and work just like a one pc form, I use a pin at butt of limb to keep stuff from sliding out end of stack when you put pressure to it. I've gone to using a pin a bit smaller than the hole I drill in form, and putting a spring in the hole so the pin self adjusts to height of stack. Nothing slides past it this way.

Do you doing anything special and or different when gluing up the limbs than if you where gluing up a one piece bow?  -------------No, it is a bit easier than a one pc because there is less to glue and no riser to keep track of....

Second: limb pad angles... how are you guys cutting your pad angles? Did you build a jig? If so what dose it look like?  ----------------- I cut pad angles on the table saw, a pc of plywood with the degree angle drawn on it and a block screwed to it to lay riser against, plus a short block for a stop at back end. Cut first end, flip end for end and cut other. Make sure the blade is dead nuts square.

Third: limb taper....When you cut your limbs do you begin you limb taper to nocks st the end of you limb wedges or is it ok to start taper as soon as limb no longer is in contact with the riser? ----------------I start limb taper just past end of wedges, mainly because I dislike a bow limb that looks hingey at end of fades....

I'll have to think about the stack a bit... How long is your riser?

[Kopper1013]

Thanks Kenny!!

I was looking at your site last night figuring out materials I liked and was thinking when I’m ready to order I’d at least throw your take-down prints on the order so I had something more solid to at least look at...

 My riser is 16”

Kenny do you sell the alignment pins for TD’s? I ended up asking my wife to buy me that centering jig you tried and said worked well for my birthday, so I’ll be using that to hopefully keep Everything straight...

[kennym]

I have the TD kits, has all you need including wrench in them.

On the jig, there is an adjustment lock nut on it. Mine needed tweaked a little. You can put it on the riser or limb and measure to edges with a dial indicator to see if it s centered to suit you.

[Todd Cook]

I just finished up a 60" 3 piece( the first take down I've done). For glue up My form has 2 little nails that act as a stop at the butt end of the limb( I use rubber bands). It really was a lot easier to glue up than a one piece.

I cut the limb pad angles freehand with a bandsaw and squared them up with a table mounted belt sander(ridged). Worked perfect.

I cut out the limbs basically pyramid shaped from 1&3/8" at the butt to 9/16" at the tips. I've gone a lot narrower on one piece bows but I'm glad I left them wide. My limb has a good bit of reflex and I was more worried about stability. Now I don't worry about them.

For stack- glass was .040 front and back, .345 total stack at butt end, .003 total taper. Came out 50# at 30", or about 45 at 28. I love it.

[Todd Cook]

Oh, and I want to mention I got the glass and lams from Kenny, and they were milled EXACTLY what I asked for. And with wood that's not easy to do.

[Kopper1013]

Thanks Todd!!

I appreciate the help