Thanks again to Roy for his advice on tri-lam formulas.
I'm going to do an Osage parallel belly, a tapered elm mid-lam and a tapered bamboo back... 68" to acomodate my 31" draw length. I've done D/R bows on forms and shaped self bows on cauls but I'm trying for a D-shaped long bow (when strung, not in cross section). I guess a HH inspiration.
What I'm trying to figure out is how to glue the bow up for best performance. If I glue up on a dead flat form I figure it will develop some string follow. A little bit (less than .75") would be ok but not more. I would like to get as much cast as possible with the given materials. Im not looking to stir the debate on the benefits of SF... suffice it to say, I just don't wanna build this bow that way.
What I need some help with is how much to move the tips forward and still get the strung profile I'm looking for. As a base concept, how about dead flat from 2" outside the fades. If I remember right, Roy recommended a four inch handle and four inch fades giving a 12" riser section. This would give a 16" dead flat area. I would then set the limb tips forward 2" and let the limbs take their natural curve between. My thought is this would allow for some string follow to set in and still have the tips forward of the handle when unstrung.
OK guys... comments?
OkKeith
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