What's up with this

[joel0711]

45# Kodiak pulling 27.5 inches 1916 arrows 29 inches
Hitting to the right but advisor at one of the on line stores said try 250 to 300 grain cause bare shaft was too stiff,,,, I thought bare shaft to the right was too weak but I tried 250 grain and pulled it little to the left then tried 300 grain and bam,right on the mark. everything says way under spined but it's flying great with feathers and going to the spot at 20 yards. Any ideas on this??

[huntryx]

The miracle of high FOC. I refer you to Ed Ashby for the calculations on this, I just know it works for me as well. That said, I wonder if there is a point of diminishing returns (like 600+ grain Bishop heads...). I am shooting an A&H ACS, 39#@28.5" with 300gr up front, 3-3" feathers on 29" 3555 shafts. The FOC is about 24%.

[Terry Green]

It's not really a miracle it's just that you had to add more weight because you were spined stiff ...it took more weight to correct what you really needed out of that bow. 

With a correctly spined  arrow you can shoot a 175 head.

So what you did was make adjustments to your head wait to make the arrow work because it was over spined with the head you were using previously.

And as far as a diminishing return ...it's still a return.

If you were to come to me everyday and give me $100 and I gave you 200 back that would be a great return ...but then one day you come and you give me $100 and I'll give you $190 back that's still a good return even though it was a diminishing return. So don't look at a diminishing return as no return which a lot of people think that's what that means ...and that is false.

[dbd870]

I've had (3) Bears at 45#, a KMag, a Grizzly, and a SuperMag. With 1916's cut at 29.5 125 to 150 up front worked fine. 28" draw. Beats me

[Roadkill]

When baking bread, if it does not come out right, you can blame the oven , flour or the yeast, but sometimes it is the baker!  Have someone video your shot sequence to see if you introduce a error and the arrow is trying to correct it.  Just a thought as none of my bows require that kind of FOC unless intentionally done

[Orion]

I think it might be something in your form as well.  A 1916 with a modest weight point should be just about perfect off of that bow.  If you're right handed, an arrow impacting right is an indication of a weak spine.  Adding a lot of weight to the front dynamically weakens it even more.

[huntryx]

Diminishing returns in the sense that it hurts rather than helps. 

[joel0711]

Should I give 1816's a try with approx. 200 grain point?

[dbd870]

I think you should post a video of you shooting. I have to agree with the others something is not right here.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Forget charts. Do what works

[gsurko]

Are you left handed?

[joel0711]

nope---right handed

[Fattony77]

Side plate material can also make a huge difference in your tuning results. If you have a hard material one one bow (leather, etc) and soft material (velcro, fur, etc) on the same bow, you can have drastically different impact points on target using the same arrow & point combination.

[joel0711]

Leather on leather--small buildup at pivot point

[katman]

I agree with Terry, you were seeing a false weak as arrow was way to stiff. adding point weight weakened it. If it is shooting great and you don't have trajectory problems go with it.

[ChuckC]

Did you bare shaft test it at all ?   I have some issues sometimes where I shoot to the right ( lefty), which normally indicates a stiff arrow (if... away from riser is stiff, toward riser is weak), yet by all accounts the arrow, as spine tested is nowhere near too stiff.   Form, release and your eyes could play a part, but they would generally show with all arrows, more or less.

I have another question, very relevant.  Why have we, as a society, morphed into talking down to each other on line.  I see this all the time now, we can't simply talk, we gotta add those digs, some, obviously more than others.

[joel0711]

right handed---bare shFTED AT 15 AND 20 YDS---HIT RIGHT INDICATING WEAK SHAFT---DID WHAT REP SAID--ADDED WEIGHT INSTEAD OF REDUCING-----DID THE TRICK

[mahantango]

Jeez guys, lighten up. We're just talking about arrows here.  Those 1916s should be too stiff, but the according to the OP they are showing weak. Something else is going on here.

[Ari_Bonn]

That does not seem right at all.    with a 35#  sage  30# at my draw of 26"     I shot 1916 cut 28"  with a 145gr  bareshafting.

Edit -  You are a rh shooter if its impacting to the right then its already too weak.   adding that extra point weight its weakening it even more but becasue of the high foc its correcting itself mid flight.   Broadheads will not be as forgiving.

[Roy from Pa]

Your bare shafts were hitting right because they were WAY too stiff. " Thus false weak indication "

There was not much paradox happening.

As the nock end of the arrow passed the arrow shelf, it was hitting the side plate and kicking the nock end of the arrow way to the left.

Causing the BARE shaft to fly to the right.

Without fletching on the arrow, it will continue going in the direction it is pointed when it leaves the bow.

"You don't just shoot bare shafts when tuning a bow."

The "correct" way to bare shaft test, is shoot a couple bare shafts "Along" with a couple fletched shafts.

If the bare shafts group to the right of the fletched shafts "for a right hand shooter", then they are too weak.

If the bare shafts group to the left of the fletched shafts, "for a right hand shooter", then they are too stiff.