Brass nock or tie on?

[BWallace10327]

I prefer a tie on nock.  I have used 10# power pro line or dental floss.  Either way, I wrap a few times and whip finish twice, finish it up with a drop of super glue.  I've not had an issue in 10 years. 

[scrub-buster]

Tie on with a bit of superglue.

[A Lex]

Thanks Roy

Best
Lex

[Sam McMichael]

Brass. I could never really tie one on that didn't slip. I don't believe there is any discernible  benefit to a tie on other than a person's personal preference. Actually, it has never been a factor in any way regarding the way I shoot other than getting its location on the string right.

[Terry Green]

 I'm going to have to check out the thread Charlie was talking about cuz I do prefer tie on.... I really do but I've had a tendency for mine to slip so I'm going to check that out ...you are never too old to learn something

[Bisch]

Like I said above, I tie mine on tight. I use the alternate overhand knot method. In all the years I have been using this method, I have never had a nock point slip on a string. I just tied two one my new SteveB string a few minutes ago. I needed to move the bottom one just a tad, and had to get a pair of pliers to get it to move at first.

Bisch


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[LBR]

I use both, depending on the situation and if I'm in a hurry.  Never had a problem with a brass nock damaging my glove or string, or with a tie-on slipping (I use BCY's nock tying thread).

IMO it boils down to using the right tool(s) for the job.  Brass nocks require a quality tool to crimp them on smooth and round and not pinch the string underneath.  Tie-on need to be the right material and tied on properly. 

FWIW, I've been using brass nock sets for around 25 years, pretty much exclusively the first 15-18 years.  I've helped coach a NASP team for 7 years (last 5 we've been North Half and State Champions), and we use tie-on nocks exclusively (brass isn't allowed in the NASP).  I've had a lot of experience with both.

[McDave]

I have been mainly using Ryan Sanpei’s clinch knot. I like the 80# test bowfishing line from 3 Rivers for tying it.  After trying a lot of things, I really liked the bowfishing line, so I ordered another 3 rolls of it, as it’s pretty cheap.  A lot of times I decide I like something, and then they quit making it.

https://www.3riversarchery.com/braided-nylon-bowfishing-line.html

[David McLendon]

I tie on and I don't glue them, I haven't had a problem with movement but I check mine regularly. My bow square is marked for nock position as well as brace height, and I have an arrow marked for BH.
 If I travel to a hunt and need to reassemble my bow it only takes a minute to put it right here it needs to be.

[black velvet]

Tie on is all I use.

[Kelly]

I have been mainly using Ryan Sanpei’s clinch knot. I like the 80# test bowfishing line from 3 Rivers for tying it.  After trying a lot of things, I really liked the bowfishing line, so I ordered another 3 rolls of it, as it’s pretty cheap.  A lot of times I decide I like something, and then they quit making it.

https://www.3riversarchery.com/braided-nylon-bowfishing-line.html

Am I missing something here but in the picture looks like there are two places the arrow nock could rest on-no definitive edge like the brass.

Been using brass for almost 60 years with absolutely no issues, no cut tabs, no cut nocks, no slippage, very easy to adjust. FYI, the splice of the brass nock point should be directly opposite the arrow. This way there is no nock gouging nor any tab/glove cutting. Also just a little squeeze where the sharp edges of nock point takes care of the sharpness. When adjusting brace height do it in even numbers, 2, 4, 6 twists, etc. That way the splice will stay opposite the arrow.

Now for tie ons, I won't do them not because I can't learn how but because there is no definitive stop, slippage unless you glue it, then if you want to adjust it you can't. Have bought lots of used bows over the years with tie on nocking point. None of them were moveable and the vast majority were in the wrong place for my shooting so have to cut them off very carefully, urgh!

That said most of the brass nocking points I see on used bows are in the wrong place for my style but they are easily moved to a lower setting.

[Rufus]

This be what I use.

[McDave]

“Am I missing something here but in the picture looks like there are two places the arrow nock could rest on-no definitive edge like the brass.“

The arrow nock stops when it hits any part of the tied on nock, which is the part of the tied on nock that is closest to the arrow nock.  The arrow nock won't slide up onto the second level of the tied on nock, if that's what you mean.  One of the reasons I like the material I use is that it is thick enough to make a definite edge that the arrow nock hits.  The thickness also keeps it from digging into the serving.

My experience is that people generally cinch down an adjustable nock when they get it where they want it.  If they want to move it again, they have to cut it off and tie another one.  I have never had Ryan's knot move after it is cinched down, and doesn’t require glue, so it is easy to cut off.

[Gdpolk]

I shoot 3 under on a skinny string.  I prefer a brass top nock and a tie on bottom nock. 

I've had one instance when a tie on nock on the top moved a little bit despite even a touch of superglue being applied to the top of it.  I likely didn't have enough glue on it to begin with AND it was on my practice string which had a LOT of shots in it and was pretty much ready to be replaced.  I've never had a brass nock drift.

Pro's for tie on:

• lighter weight
• easier to adjust when tuning
• easier on arrows
• easier on fingers and/or release aids

Pro's for brass:

• more durable (although that's likely irrelevant since the string itself is also a wear component and tie on's consistently last for the lifetime of a string)
• easier to feel, especially in winter time with cold or gloved hands for arrow placement in low light
• marginally less likely in my experience to drift with use

For these reasons, with me shooting 3-under I put brass on the top to reduce the risk of nock point drift and a tie on for the bottom nock to reduce wear on my glove and keep the string as light as possible without sacrificing the dead holding power of the top nock which gets the majority of the stress for a 3-under shooter anyway.  In the end they both work and both work pretty well and both methods have stood the test of time.  I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do it but I go brass on the top and tie on for the bottom for the aforementioned reasons.

[Bisch]

Alternating overhand knot method, and I also use BCY Nock Tying Thread

Bisch


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[two4hooking]

I tie a dental floss nock by making a loop on the serving and wrapping a hump of floss over it.  When done put the tag end through the loop and pull that loop under the mound to lock it in place (it may break but that is fine).  Use some superglue to make sure it doesn't slip once confirmed.

[Tedd]

Here is where I learned the knot. Super easy. And they never slip. Even on a really short bows where the angle of the arrow tries to jack your two nocking points apart. No glue needed.

[McDave]

I use the same knot as Tedd.  The secret to making the knot so it doesn't slip is the tightening system that Ryan uses.  The second secret is burning the ends and flattening them. You can see the flattened ends in the photo of mine above.

[Kelly]

Just watched Ryan's videos. Will give it a try as I'm getting low on brass nock points, but have lots of 8125 bow string material and different sizes of serving.

[smokin joe]

I used to use brass, but I did not like the way they tore up my glove. So, I switched to the tie-on variety, but then I discovered something I like much better than either brass or tie on...

Here is the link to the Trad Gang thread I posted about the nock points I have used for the last 7 or 8 years:

http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=104981.msg1973547#msg1973547