Footing a carbon shaft

[ty_in_ND]

So, I want to try footing some of my carbon shafts by sliding the right diameter aluminum shaft over the carbon.  My carbon's OD is .28" (they are ACC Pro Hunters in 340 spine).  I know the trick to figuring out the size of the inner diameter of an xx75 aluminum shaft, so my two main questions are 1) how much larger do I want the xx75 shaft to be?  Example: a 2013 shaft has an inner diameter of .2865.  Would that be big enough to fit over the carbon and have enough room to glue it on?  2) How long of a footing should I use?

Thanks!

[Charlie Lamb]

I can't answer the size question... when you find out let me know what works so I can add the information to the list I have on the How To Forum.

I personally prefer a pretty short footing. Usually 1/2 to 3/4". My thinking is that the foot only prevents the shaft from "starting" to split. Others will differ.

[lefty4]

I think the closer the ID of the footing is to the OD of the shaft, the greater the strength. You don't nee much room for glue. Many carbon inserts are "belled" on the front end and will actually be a larger OD than the shaft OD. Therefore, it is best to slip the footing on before you install inserts or before you fletch. Otherwise your footing will have to be larger than you want or need.
As Charlie said, the purpose of the footing is to prevent the shaft from splitting if the insert tries to push back. The tighter the fit, the better. A 2016 might work, but I think it will be too tight. A 2117  is the next closest (of the common sizes) and that size will be pretty big and require lots of glue (compared to the 2016).

[kenneth butler]

006 clearance is a lot. I like a good snug fit.  001 no more than .002 or there is the possibility of getting the arrow out of balance with the footing off to one side.  As said it is only to keep the shaft from splitting so  1" is plenty. I kind of like for it to about cover the insert.>>>---->Ken

[ty_in_ND]

Charlie - As soon as I get some shafts in, I will let you know!  It wouldn't hurt to order a few different singles from Lancaster.

lefty4 - Thanks for the tip about the inserts causing a bump.  These are fresh shafts I am working with, so I will foot them before I do the other work.

Kenneth - I will do some more calculations and keep the .001-.002" tolerance in mind.

As far as the length, I think I will double check.  The HP-3 inserts for these shafts are on the longer side... I would love to make the footing an inch, as I plan on cutting the arrows to 31" and I have a 30" draw.  I'll chime back when I get it figured out!

[TomMcDonald]

I can't answer the size question... when you find out let me know what works so I can add the information to the list I have on the How To Forum.

I personally prefer a pretty short footing. Usually 1/2 to 3/4". My thinking is that the foot only prevents the shaft from "starting" to split. Others will differ.

Charlie,
Mot sure if you habe Easton Powerflights on your list but 2113 and 2117 shafts work well for the .340 Powerflights.
Tom.

[Charlie Lamb]

Thanks Tom. I'll add that information. 

[Tim Finley]

I tried a 2213 over my 400 Bemans and my 3000 Vapors it was a little big I am going to the rest of my junk arrows and see if a 2216 will fit tighter. Its a good Idea 2 of the hogs I shot this winter split the shaft and I lost the broadheads also the arrow popped out to soon .

[TomMcDonald]

Brass tube also works and you can buy in many different sizes.

[Woodpuppy]

What do you think about fitting the back end of a shaft that has already split? I’ve lost two now to the 3D target range, one was a “leg bone” rebar hit and one was an “iron man” type shot through a chain link gate. Steel stops em and splits the nock end. Only the back 3/4” or so appears split...

[JimB]

Woodpuppy,I don't know it I'd risk it or not but I can tell you that I put a 1/4" footing on the knock end of all of mine and it prevents such splits.

[Woodpuppy]

JimB, thanks! I plan to do the same. Using GT trad 400s, planning on using sections of a 2019 I think.

[ty_in_ND]

Well, here's the update. As I stated earlier, I ordered a 2016 aluminum arrow and let's just say the fit was a hair on the snug side! I was planning on putting on a 1" long footing, but with how tight the fit was, I was only able to get it on about 9/16" before I said to heck with it. At least I didn't need the monkey around with glue!

So I guess you could say if you wanted a shorter footing the 20-16 aluminum would suit you, but I think I am going to gets a slightly larger aluminum arrow in order to get a little bit longer of a foot on these Pro Hunter shafts. I know that a bit over half an inch will be plenty, I just want to be able to play around a little bit.

Sent from my LG G6 using Tapatalk

[Bldtrailer]

This is why I foot front and back 2 inch 2117 front 3/8 back

[Bldtrailer]

[TomMcDonald]

What do you think about fitting the back end of a shaft that has already split? I’ve lost two now to the 3D target range, one was a “leg bone” rebar hit and one was an “iron man” type shot through a chain link gate. Steel stops em and splits the nock end. Only the back 3/4” or so appears split...

I've done it several times and it's fine.

[Woodpuppy]

What do you think about fitting the back end of a shaft that has already split? I’ve lost two now to the 3D target range, one was a “leg bone” rebar hit and one was an “iron man” type shot through a chain link gate. Steel stops em and splits the nock end. Only the back 3/4” or so appears split...

I've done it several times and it's fine.

Thanks for the feedback. I wondered too about turning the shaft around, so the string load at release isn’t at the repair, and so the repair is supported inside by the Point insert. Overthinking it?

[TomMcDonald]

What do you think about fitting the back end of a shaft that has already split? I’ve lost two now to the 3D target range, one was a “leg bone” rebar hit and one was an “iron man” type shot through a chain link gate. Steel stops em and splits the nock end. Only the back 3/4” or so appears split...

I've done it several times and it's fine.

Thanks for the feedback. I wondered too about turning the shaft around, so the string load at release isn’t at the repair, and so the repair is supported inside by the Point insert. Overthinking it?

sounds sensible, though I had no trouble at all with my 65lb longbow over several hundred shots (and counting).