Author Topic: Finish ? Plus 1 more ? (Read 6141 times)

Robertfishes · « **Reply #20 on:** May 24, 2018, 11:40:11 AM »

I used Minwax Spar urethane before I got set up with an oiless compressor and spray gun. I use Krystal from Big Jim now. Krystal works over any wood even if its oily and dries in minutes.. If your used to using Truoil then maybe that's a good choice for you.

nek4me · « **Reply #21 on:** May 24, 2018, 10:09:46 PM »

I like Tru-Oil. Have used it for gunstocks and bows. If thinned 50/50 with paint thinner and applied in several thin coats there is no need to sand or steel wool between coats and you get a smooth hand rubbed oil looking finish for no additional effort.

Here is one I just refinished and posted in the auction.

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #22 on:** May 25, 2018, 04:32:40 AM »

Thats a nice looking bow there Joe I have used tru oil as a finish for a while very tuff finish I only make hunting bows so I make a paste of pumice powder & olive oil and rub a nice matt finish, I just wasn't sure if it would work on glass, Im assuming you where talking thinning for spraying ? If I where to use it I was just going to hand apply !

nek4me · « **Reply #23 on:** May 25, 2018, 12:08:02 PM »

Not sprayed on. It was applied with a piece of cotton t-shirt. The thinning makes it much more user friendly than straight and the thinned coats lay down nice and smooth even with a rag. It dries faster and multiple coats can be applied each day so overall it doesn't take any more time. That riser was sanded to only 220 and the finish was not worked between coats or after the final and looks like more than 220 was used. I didn't keep count but there's probably 7-8 coats on it. I have used the thinned Tru-Oil over existing factory gunstock finishes without any prep as a touch up that came out looking like a lot more effort was put into it so it would probably work over the existing glass finish without sanding.

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #24 on:** May 25, 2018, 01:11:58 PM »

Ok thanks Im still going to sand the glass too, but sounds good on the application 50/50 how long between coats ?

nek4me · « **Reply #25 on:** May 25, 2018, 02:37:30 PM »

Guess it would depend on temp and humidity but I was able to apply two coats in an evening so about 4-5 hours. Even if a little bit tacky it still works as the previous coat has smoothed itself out by then. I think the thinned mixture penetrates into the wood better and seals the pores. The first few coats are dull and then it starts to get some body to it. If you get the sanding prep clean I think you will find it is a no fail application as there's nothing else to do but apply very thin even coats and wait.

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #26 on:** May 25, 2018, 06:26:08 PM »

Also on one of the bows I was thinking Pre catalyzed lacquer I have friends that use it on composite & glass bows they swear by it any body here try it ? It's supposed to be really durable finish !

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #27 on:** May 26, 2018, 07:42:05 AM »

Got the first coat of Tru oil & denatured alcohol didnt have paint thinner & the alcohol is compatable on the charts but the riser took it in nicely

kennym · « **Reply #28 on:** May 26, 2018, 07:57:20 AM »

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #29 on:** May 26, 2018, 08:06:01 AM »

Thanks Kenny with the alcohol its flashing off quick should be able to get a couple coats today in between honey dues 😃

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #30 on:** May 26, 2018, 08:57:08 AM »

Coat #2 this finish is giving me the old school rustic look I was after, you can tell the wood keeps sucking it up as it keeps getting darker !

monterey · « **Reply #31 on:** May 26, 2018, 10:02:15 AM »

Cool. Never would've thunk denatured alcohol and TruOil would work together.

Learn something new every day here.

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #32 on:** May 26, 2018, 10:08:07 AM »

Got the info from guitar makers forum the say denatured alcohol , mineral spirits or paint thinner work so far so good !

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #33 on:** May 26, 2018, 10:31:32 AM »

Coat #3 cut the alcohol back to 20% these coats are drying to the touch quick hot as heck here with a nice breeze in the shop

kennym · « **Reply #34 on:** May 26, 2018, 10:32:06 AM »

Honey dos!! It’s the weekend man!! Tell her to let up!

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #35 on:** May 26, 2018, 10:44:01 AM »

Ok I will tell her see if it works ,I only have 30 more bags of mulch to do & weed and I can put another coat on 🤢

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #36 on:** May 27, 2018, 06:56:48 AM »

Here is 7-8 coats I switched to strait tru oil for the last 3 now let it set for a week and mix pumice powder and olive oil and rub it matt this finish less the alcohol I have used on many self & sinew bows its a tuff finish , Im going to buy a paasch air brush and try some thing different for the 60 in. I just have to switch bows and convince the wife Im still working on the same bow 😃

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #37 on:** May 27, 2018, 08:27:37 AM »

Here is another finish question I have Kennys 60 in. Forward handle design its Zebra wood but I want to try the Pre cat lacquer finish but do you guys know of any thing I can do first to really pop the grain off before spraying the Pre cat lacquer ?

Flem · « **Reply #38 on:** May 27, 2018, 01:48:53 PM »

Dewaxed (seal coat)or decanted Amber shellac would do the trick. As would a vinyl sealer. Are you using a Nitro based Lacquer or CAB acrylic? If you have spray equipment, you might look into using a conversion varnish, it's bomb-proof and chemically cross linked, similar to epoxy finish.

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #39 on:** May 27, 2018, 02:25:02 PM »

I think in the pre cat lacquers they use acid as the catalyzer all though the say vinyl sealer can be used on top of them but not recomended going over shellac its supposedly good solid bond and is avalible in matt finish in rattle can or liquid.

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Author Topic: Finish ? Plus 1 more ? (Read 6141 times)

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