Three under draw difficult to learn?

[starshooter]

This is probably a redundant question. But I d like to experiment with three under
Maybe for better aim and/ or release. How should I start this ? Raise nocking point on string ? Or just draw to your anchor point? Thanks !

[McDave]

My experience is that I need a nock point of 5/8” or higher for 3 under.  So if your nock point is lower than that, you might want to raise it to 5/8”. If you keep your old anchor, your point-on should drop, which might be a good thing, or you can experiment with a new anchor.  Generally people find that they hit low immediately after switching to 3 under, but that will probably go away after you have time to get used to it.

It's worth trying, many people, including me, like it better than split.  Others try it and don't like it and switch back.

[starshooter]

McDave- does the bow need to be tillered for this??  Also, does this necessiate the
Use of a tab.  I shoot with fingerstalls ( Howard Hill) and they are well broken in. Before that I was shooting with  SAM and the release was much smoother albeit a deep hook(?)

[McDave]

Any bow that can be shot split can be shot 3 under.  Maybe not optimally, but it would be hard for you or me to tell the difference.  3 under usually requires a slightly higher nock point, which is why I recommended 5/8”, if you’re not already that high.  If you turn out to like 3 under, it only makes sense to order future bows tillered for 3 under, because it does make some difference.

I use a tab, but many people who shoot 3 under use gloves.  Rick Welch, for example, uses a Dura Glove.  Use whatever you want.  Whatever you use, a deep hook is a good idea.

[Wolftrail]

Shooting 3 under for me was an easy transition and I use a glove.  Aiming seems to be more natural without the finger been in the way shooting split.

[starshooter]

I went out this morning and shot a few rounds at my target  .I find nd that the arrows fly low. To remedy that I hitched my drawing arm and my bow arm up higher .The other thing I notice that original nock point that I have with split finger
wasnt half bad when I tried it. I like however the alignment with my cheek bone better.
Other thing was my aim seemed to have more alignment with my shot architecture ( lining up the bones). Down side was my glasses possibly interfered
with the anchor . But I see the potential. Thanks.

[starshooter]

Sorry for the garbled grammar. The type feature on my device is difficult.

[Roy from Pa]

The arrows go lower because you are not pulling the bow string back as far as when shooting split, so you lose a couple pounds..

But 3 under is a great way to shoot. Keep at it and your brain will adjust.

My nocking point is 5/8th" high also. Some folks go as much as 3/4" high.

[starshooter]

????? Anybody else?  How many pounds lost? 2 ? 5?

[starshooter]

Ok I get it.. just wondered because I am pulling close to 28” and it bothers me because I have been working very hard on back extension , cleaning up my release etc. Thanks for your input. I will keep that in mind. Not sure how the “adjustment” comes about however. Also ,I am seeing tighter groups  something I have never seen before when I shot split finger -close to “bullseye” albeit low.
My nock height is a tad above  1/2” Thanks again.

[Roy from Pa]

About 2.

[McDave]

The only way you will learn how much bow weight you have lost or gained is to accurately measure your draw length and compare it with your draw length before you changed.  The usual way to measure draw length is to have someone mark one of your arrows where it crosses the back of the bow while you are at full draw (the back of the bow is the side that is away from you as you draw).  Measure the distance from the mark to the valley of the nock (the bottom of the slot in the nock).  From your previous posts, I’m not sure you have ever done this, so you may not have the previous information, but it is a good thing to keep track of going forward.  It is not a given that you're going to lose draw weight switching to 3 under, but it is possible.

As to how you adjust, that depends on how you aim.  If you aim instinctively, you will initially hit lower because your brain has been programmed for the way you used to hold the arrow, and it will take a while to reprogram, but just keep shooting and it will eventually happen.  If you aim by reference to the point of the arrow, you just have to establish new gaps, which is a much quicker process.

[the rifleman]

According to my chronograph i am not getting any consistent speed difference between split and 3 under.  The arrows "go lower" because w same anchor 3 under places the arrow closer to your eye. 

[starshooter]

Another question- is there a photo of a properly sized tab for the hand?
It seems like I saw one somewhere and if memory is correct the tab should go no further than the first crease of the fingers ( from the top). I either take a large  or medium. Not sure which. This is for three under.
I could also go to Tandy and make a template  but the question of deep hooking
lingers. Thanks

[McDave]

These are pictures of my tab.  It is a Safari Tuff medium 3 under tab.  When my fingers are curled around the string, you can still see the tips of my fingers.  The string doesn't hit them as long as I relax my fingers and let the string push them out of the way.  This is good, because if the string hits my fingers, I know I’m doing something wrong.  I'm 5’10” and I would say I have about average sized hands for a man of my height.