Tuning question

[the rifleman]

OK---I have always been a big fan of bareshafting arrows but lately with one bow I have been getting mixed results.  I have one arrow very well tuned that is supposed to be .700 spine, but I had to cut it down to 28 5/8" inches---I use a crawl and like arrows at least 30" long.  I tried an old beman mfx full length with 150 up front---these are fairly skinning shafts and it showed weak out past 20 yards---this arrow is supposed to be .600 spine. 

My buddy had some Warrior arrows in .700 spine at 30" and I dunked the feathers in the pond and matted them down pretty good.  I put a Grizzly 156 grain broad head on and that arrow flew absolutely great at 30 yards.  There was no kicking at all---nothing to indicate weak or stiff and the arrow just went where I pointed it.  I had tried Warriors in the this bow several years ago and seem to remember them being a bit weak, but I've made changes in my form since them so...

My question is---how many of you would just forget about the bareshaft tuning process and put together the Warriors for hunting based on how well the above arrow is shooting.  Its not in my nature to do this as I tend to over analyze, but in this case I am leaning toward just getting these shafts and fletching them up for broadheads and bypassing the bareshaft process.

[McDave]

What is your bow setup and poundage?

[the rifleman]

42# Whip.  I draw 26 1/4". Im shooting .800 carbon express out of 38# Pika and they tune perfect.

[McDave]

With 30” arrows, 150 gr up front, I think 700’s are too weak, or at least tune with a true bareshaft.  Is the Pica 38# at your DL or at 28”?

[the rifleman]

The pika is marked 40@29" and i draw 26.25" so im probably getting about 36# out of it.  The .800 s and cedars in 33/34 spine both tune perfect in the Pika.
Any downside to skipping bareshafting and just fletching and shooting the warriors since the one i tested today did so well?

[Trumpkin the Dwarf]

The pika is marked 40@29" and i draw 26.25" so im probably getting about 36# out of it.  The .800 s and cedars in 33/34 spine both tune perfect in the Pika.
Any downside to skipping bareshafting and just fletching and shooting the warriors since the one i tested today did so well?

If it flies well with wet feathers and a broadhead for 10 shots in a row, then it's good to go. I would argue you should shoot that particular arrow for a week before you fletch the whole batch though. The whole point of careful tuning is to get great flight from arrows with broadheads when conditions are bad, right?

[the rifleman]

I have to agree with you.  I get obsessive about verifying my results--- i start to shoot too much then results get sketchy so i put it up and come in fresh later in the day or tomorrow...

[McDave]

My go to bow for the last few years for 3D is a 40# @ 28” Dakota, which I draw to 28”. I shoot 600 spine 29” GT Ultralights, with a 100 gr point.  There are too many variables between your setup and mine for me to really make an informed guess.  I’m really into bare shaft tuning, though, and would encourage you to finish that process unless you’re really sure.

[the rifleman]

Thanks McDave.  I have always been careful about bareshafting.  I shot too much the last couple days and just need to rest a little so i can come back fresh.  Tries some old beman mfx 600s a bit ago and had good results at 30 yds when i did my part.

[Friend]

If my BH's consistently share the same mark with fletched shafts approximately ten yards beyond my effective hunting range, then I am golden.