I cannot tell you your preferences, but i would be very tempted, if you came to my yard to shoot a few, to start out with 45-50 28" bop cedars with four inch four fletch. I have seen guys bare shaft with stiff arrows that seemed good just to run into things when feathers are applied. They quite often end up raising the nocking point very high and increasing the brace height. When shooting by hand, it is possible that a good deal of the arrow is dragging on the bow, while the action of the bow hand allows the the bow to move just enough to give enough clearance to allow good flight, the excess contact is still there. As a recent personal example. I had a set of 65 Acme cedars that seemed good out of one of my bows with field points, but the hen feather of the 5.5" three fletch was pointing straight down. I made a set of broad heads of matching weight and did the nock rotation trick to make sure that i had the hen feather at the best possible angle, while keeping the grain corrected to the bow. They flew perfect, but there was a definite clack when the arrow left the bow. First thing I thought of was nock tightness, that helped some. Next, I gave it a 1/8" increased brace that helped a little more, then I lowered the under the arrow nocking point to 3/32" above level and put the brace height back where it was, that was the thing that made it all come together. I had tuned that bow with the arrows that had Mercury 11/32 nocks and the vertical hen feather, I first used the classic nocks on the broad head arrows, I notice a couple of shots had a bit of contact with a questionable release with the filed out Bohning classic nocks, which I have now changed to Mercury nocks, I think they give a little bit more forgiveness in case of a chunky release or maybe my filed out nocks may have had variations. Funny how little things mean a lot with arrow contact on a non center shot bow.
Topic: XX75 2213 for selfbow issues (Read 1213 times)
