Arrow spine selection

[hessian]

Good morning, I have an arrow test kit from three rivers and upon shooting the different arrows they all seem to fly “well”. Is there certain things I should be looking for to determine proper spine? I’m shooting a 45# Bear Montana, three under, 125 grain heads. Thank you in advance
!

[McDave]

What is your draw length?  Are you looking for carbon, aluminum, or wood arrows?

[hessian]

28”draw length and I want to shoot wood arrows. Thanks

[McDave]

If you’re not at the point yet where you notice much difference between spine groups, I would just choose an arrow that’s going to be in the ballpark and spend your time working on your form and enjoying shooting arrows.  Given your setup and drawlength, I recommend 45-50# spine arrows, cut to 29”. Probably they will be 11/32” in diameter.  I stay away from 23/64” arrows as they look too fat to me, but that is a personal preference.  Given time, you may have a preference for a spine group above, or more likely below, the one I suggested, but it should work fine for now.

More useful at this point would be to get involved in arrow making, as you are likely to damage fletches or lose points and need to repair them.  Or, if you choose to make your own arrows from shafts, it can become a real art form.

[hessian]

McDave,

Thank you very much for that information and your time! I definitely plan on building my own arrows in the near future and with so much knowledge and people willing to help from this site, I look forward to it. Thank again

Adam

[Wolftrail]

Different flavors for different folks.  I have a 45# glass longbow and a 36# wood take down bow that I shoot often.   I make my own wood arrows 30" long and my draw is 28" 125gr. point.   All I can say is that most arrows shoot fine from the glass bow and arrows in the 42-44# spine shoot great from the wood bow.  The wood bow is center shot.  Having said that I gave up on matching spine to bows,  its a waste of time in my opinion as long as the bow is designed right.

Only problem I had making arrows was improper alignment of the arrow tip.  Carbon arrows dont work for me.

[the rifleman]

You say all three fly well---I'm guessing you are using field points and the arrows have feathers on them.  If your form is to the point where you are confident, then mound the same weight broadheads on them and shoot them at 25 or 30 yards---even better wet the feather down and shoot the broadheads.  You should be watching to see which of the arrows flies right down the middle.  If you are right handed the weak arrow will fly to the right and the stiff arrow will fly to the left.  This should be very apparent with broadheads at those distances.  Again, this is only if you are satisfied that your form is to the point that it will give you reliable tuning indications.

I almost always use bareshafting, but sometimes when shooting wood arrows I will use the method above and have found it very reliable.  Good luck.

[hessian]

Thanks so much to those who have replied! I will definitely try that out this weekend and report back.

[slowbowjoe]

I agree with McDave on the spine; 45-50's are gonna be really close, if not spot on.