sleaved and footed arrows

[Hoytman]

I was just wondering if any of you guys have ever tried sleaving or footing an arrow by putting shaft material OVER the the arrow shaft instead of inside. Then using a larger dia. tip to flush up the front where the point meets the shaft. This  results in a overall smaller diameter, which I think helps on penetration and wind drift. Just curious. I have made a couple, and just wondering if anyone else had.

[Bowsey Wails]

How do you get an overall smaller diameter when you put shaft material OVER the arrowshaft?
Tim

[BobW]

huh?

[Hoytman]

Originally posted by Bowsey Wails:
How do you get an overall smaller diameter when you put shaft material OVER the arrowshaft?
Tim

I'm not talking about fully sleeved. Just a short piece. As in extra front weight, or as a stumper to keep from driving the insert in the arrow.
I tried it years ago by putting a 6" piece of aluminum of a few carbon shafts to make them easier to remove from the old 3-d targets.

[DannyBows]

I'm not exactly sure what you mean about smaller shaft, but I foot all my carbons with aluminum. Keeps them from mushrooming at the point, and makes them about bullet-proof. I use an inch section at the point, and 1/4" to 3/8" at the nock end. 2216's work for my Carbon Express, and 2413's work at the point on Arrow Dynamics Trad's. 2117 works on the nock end of the AD's. I just got a few 2512's that work fine on 23/64 wood shafts. I'll use two-inch footings for them. I saved a CE recently from a Robinhood. The aluminum section split and the shaft did also, but just a little. The aluminum sleeve kept the arrow point from going too far down the shaft to save. A new aluminum epoxied back-on and the arrow is fine again. I use 1 hour set epoxy to secure the footings. Angle the edges of the sleeves with a file or wet-stone to make them easier to pull from targets. Just got a dozen of the AD Trad's Woodgrain I'll be doing this evening. I love building and tinkering with my arrows and gear.