Little herters here I go. Now on round 2 pg 3.

[Crooked Stic]

Kinda late now but I think you would be better off with the belly side on the form. Harder to get the form perfect on the humps. Where as the hose would kinda form around them. But you fades do need thinning out.

[monterey]

I did the bow ti...  I mean zip ties on my last layup and it worked great.  I'll be doing it regularly from here on out.  (I'm thinking to beat Roy to the punch(line) but that would deprive him.)

[EwokArcher]

Crooked I agree I think it would be easier and I could have used a pin to line up the riser and everything.  This is how I saw all of the other forms made and I didn't even think to switch it up. But I am definitely learning why the other method is favored. On the dry run I noticed it was more difficult to get the glass conformed to the curves and is definitely gonna take extra care.
Learning experience 

[EwokArcher]

Got er glued up and popped off the far. So far so good. The fades dont look bad I'll know for sure when I sand the boogers off.

[Forwardhandle]

Very cool can't wait tell a string goes on !

[Trux Turning]

Looking good! Getting them glued up is a challenge.

[EwokArcher]

Trux what do you know about string length for this thing? It's a 46 inch.

[Trux Turning]

The strings on mine are 41"- that gives me a brace height of 9.25". I'd probably start with a 42" string.

[EwokArcher]

Thanks trux you da man.

[EwokArcher]

Man I was shooting for the .200-.210 total stack and I'm not sure what happened but I cant even get a string on this thing. I've never used a recurve stringer before but it feels like I must have ended up with a hundred pound monster instead of my 45 pounds I was hoping for. I reviewed the original plans and text instruction I received. The original plans had .18 thickness =49 pounds. My written instructions said .210 = 49 pounds. I realize now the written instructions. 210 included a .5 thickness power lam. I didn't figure that in when I made my parallel and taper. So essentially I made my bow for a .210 then added a power lam on top instead of .210 including all 3. It probably is a hundred pound now no wonder my back is sore from trying to string it.
Better luck next time lol

[EwokArcher]

If you can tell realization was setting in as I was writing that last post. Dang always disappointing to lose one but that's part of the fun I guess.
Here is a more concise version of what happened.
 .210 for a 48 pound bow. But for some reason I didn't think that included the power lam. So my limbs ended up .210 instead of the .18 they needed to be.
Noob move. On to the next one

[Shredd]

Yup...  It happens to the best of us...  Make a crossbow out of it...

[Crooked Stic]

It does not take much to change the poundage in a short bow pretty quick. My 50 in TD  takes .187 to get 47 lbs. with no where close to your drastic limb design. what taper in your limb?

[EwokArcher]

My taper is .002. I did some grinding some cutting and some rounding. But it was still nearly too heavy to get strung and very unstable. I'm gonna start from scratch I had some tip alignment issues that were gonna plague me every step of the way anyways due to a measuring error.

[EwokArcher]

Bjansen has been giving me some tips on the side about this now design and I asked permission to share a post for everyone. This is great info for anyone who wants to attempt this build.
"I rechecked my notes - here is what I had recorded.  These are all exclusive of the P lam - meaning what you did was correct. 

36# - .200 stack thickness (I used actionwood and clear .040 glass)
49# - .191 stack thickness (I used maple lams and clear .040 glass)
55# - .210 stack thickness (I used .040 clear glass and included a strip of uniweft in the stack)...this bow did not open up correctly due to the uniweft and it has a hard time keeping the string on it.

You may look at this data (especially comparing the stack for the 36# bow and the 49# bow) and say that makes no sense.  Well, this is how finicky these bows are...if you change anything...lam material, glass, taper rates, how much you round the sides, etc...it makes a huge difference. "- bjansen

[EwokArcher]

Attempting this one with a .190 total stack thickness. Just came off the form

[EwokArcher]

My form is straight. I use washers so to get my tips and handle straight I am dumping the laser level which has caused me more headaches than anything. I am just gonna mark center of the glass at tips and center of handle and work from there. That's big change number one on this now from the last attempt.  I got fresh batch of glue for this go, used alchohol wipes and a stiff brush in an airconditioned space for my prep work last night. Also using bearpaw glass with the grey lams I dyed in a previous post. Fingers crossed.

[EwokArcher]

Something wasn't perfectly straight obviously. Anyways I had to adjust the tips about 1/8 to the right in this picture. The original had both tips center to the left of the handle. With the redraw the string from tip to tip falls very close to dead center on the handle. Any tips on this part of the process are welcome. I'm gonna try to post more of my as top by step on this build so yall can slap my hand.

[EwokArcher]

I lengthened the power lam about 2 inches this go around I think its 18 inches. The last one extended so little past the handle I don't think it would have reinforced that weak area much. And I made it paduke for some pop. Brittle brittle I had a hard time getting it to take the curve... I actually had to pre shape it with heat gun and some weights over night. You can see my grey Lams here also. Mr. Bjansen said this bow is supposed to be about 44in  amo. I need to figure out what amo is, but what I did do was mark this at 46, 47, then cut it off at 48 inches in total length. At 48 inches the tips are even with the handle. Those measurements are as measured from the back center of the bow.

[Bvas]

Did you put the layout marks on prior to glue up?

If so, did you recheck them after cleaning up the blank?