Snake skin on laminate bow

[Beazley hunter]

Hey guys, my two sons and I are going build a couple bows for them. One of them wants snake skin. How do you do skins and overlays? Would you glue overlays over the skins? Seems like it would be a weak glue line. Or would you glue your overlays on and then trim the skins to match the ends of the overlay? Oooor, I'm guessing no, but could you put the skin under clear glass on the back and then glue the overlays like normal? Any advice would be appreciated. I've looked, but can't find any pictures of bows with skins and overlays. Thanks guys.

[Roy from Pa]

Or would you glue your overlays on and then trim the skins to match the ends of the overlay?

Yes.

[Crooked Stic]

I dont think skin under the glass would be a good idea. Only if it can be saturated with glue it might work.

[EwokArcher]

I've only done skins on primitive bows using titebond 3 which always goes great. The skins always are the last to go on after any tip or handle overlays. I dont see many on glass bows, but I've got a pile of rattle snake skins and would like to see one on a recurve. Hope we get some good answers about adhesives and finishing.

[C. Johnson]

I dont think skin under the glass would be a good idea. Only if it can be saturated with glue it might work.

There is a guy over in Europe somewhere who builds his limbs with fabric under clear glass.  Seems to work for him.  I don't remember if I saw it here, or another forum.  I would imagine it would work so long as the skin were completely saturated.

If it were me, I think I would try contact cement to bond the skin to the outside of the glass.  But I've never tried it.  Just my two cents.....

[Mark Smeltzer]

I wouldn't put skins under glass or overlays. The skin can be blended in to the overlays easy enough.

[4runr]

I've used Tite Bond III on glass. Rough it up a little bit with 120 sand paper. Put on a nice smooth layer of glue, let dry put on another layer, then apply your skin. You gotta spend some time working out the air bubbles and excess glue.
For the over lays, if you very carefully put blue painters tape where you don't want the skins, you can get the transitions cleaned up much easier.

[Beazley hunter]

Thanks guys. I'll go over the glass and stop at the overlays. If it works out it should be nice.

[TradBowyer]

I've done quite a few on glass bows. Like was already suggested rough up glass and lay down a layer of titebond glue. Let sit and tack up real good. Apply another layer and lay the damp skins on and work all air bubbles out. I trim as close to overlays as I can. Once dry any edges that lifted can be put down with dab of superglue.