Kennym 66” D/R bow blank build along

[Fishinglink]

UPDATE POST#31

So this is my day one post for the blank. My goal is to have it finished by September 1st so I can shoot it for a month before season opens.
 



As far as ordering and what I received, Kenny is a stand up guy. The bow arrived very well packaged and wrapped in shrink wrap. The ordering was very straight forward  and he answered all the questions I had before, during, and after the build process. Very pleasant and professional via text, email and tradgang pm as well as prompt in reply time. So anyways he has earned my business.


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[Bvas]

Looks like you’re off to a great start

Just remember, when in doubt ASK!!  The guys here are standup individuals. Well...most are. I won’t mention any names, but he’s old and lives in PA.

Seriously though, we’d rather answer silly questions than see ya mess something up.

[Roy from Pa]

Just remember this.

You can always take more wood off.

But once you take off too much.

You can't put it back on.

[mwosborn]

Veneers turned out great!  String grooves cut in yet?  Just curious if it comes "pre-tillered"?  Looking forward to see your progress.

[Fishinglink]

Yes the string grooves are cut. Currently pulls about 50@29 but there’s about an inch or so of grip begging to be removed so should get it pretty close to my goal. Also they come with all cutoffs and a piece of phenolic for tip reinforcement.


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[Fishinglink]

Well I just got it back out of the new bow sock I bought. Lifted a splinter in the fiberglass due to me not rounding the edges I guess. Here’s a pic let me know how bad I screwed the pooch. Tried sanding with 320 grit to see if I could work it a little to no avail.


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[kennym]

Ouch!! You will need to round the edges anyway and it takes some to lose much weight. I’d go with some 150 grit and roll when edhe up on your finger a little when going toward center

[Bvas]

Kenny, you been drinkin?
I know what your sayin and barely understood that

[Bvas]

I use a 1/2” square file to knock the corner off the glass first. Always work from riser to tips. And always push file into the limb so you don’t lift more splinters.

Then I go to 120 emery cloth to round of and smooth up. Draw back and forth across the limb. Again working from riser to tips.

[Fishinglink]

Ok so I didn’t turn it to firewood before touching it with tools is what I’m understanding from these few posts. It’s about a 1/2” long and not very wide. So just so I better understand.
Step 1- break the corners with a flat file from riser to tip. Flip. Repeat
Step 2- work 150 grit emery cloth back and forth across limb further softening edges.
Step 3- Don’t put back in sock until bow is finished.

Thanks for the reassurance. Hope this is my only oops.

Tool question- I have a 1”x44” belt sander with 220-400 grit belts. Can I use it to shape grip or will I risk damaging the fiberglass?





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[TradBowyer]

personal opinion of course... but files have no place around fiberglass for me. get yourself some 60- 400 grit sandpaper and that is all you need. use the 60 grit for rounding your edges over on the limbs and preliminary sanding of the filed riser. I leave the tape on the glass till the end then remove and start with 220 going down to 400.

[kennym]

LOL, there was somebody beating on the door, dogs were goin nuts and I rushed that a bit!! Fone and fat fingers don't get along...

Always work from glass into wood to keep from pulling glass loose from the wood.

Always work from center toward tips , because the glass has fibers in it ,when you have tapered the limbs, and take a pc of sandpaper the wrong way can cause a splinter to pull up (you already found that)


The sander will work, just go very slowly and review your work often. Like Roy says you can't put it back on...

[C. Johnson]

Just remember this.

You can always take more wood off.

But once you take off too much.

You can't put it back on.

Just do what I do:  Cut it three times and find out it's still too short!

[C. Johnson]

I use 180 grit abrasive belt material folded around an 1 1/4" wide X 1/8" thick piece of maple (about like a paint stir stick) to round the edges over.  It's slow, but gives me excellent control.  Though I use files and rasps extensively for shaping the riser, I seldom use them on the limbs.  The only exception to this is when I need to trap the limbs to hit weight.  In this application, a file cuts flatter and faster.

At any rate, work from riser to tip like the other guys said, and take your time.

[Bvas]

You are far from making firewood.

As you can see, there are varying degrees to round the corners, from heavy to light. Either way you have room to work. Just remember to work from riser to tips. Whether it be file, sandpaper, wiping with a cloth, or pulling off tape.

 And always try to push(sand/file)into the limb to avoid lifting fibers.

[Fishinglink]

Ok so I like the idea of the paint stick “file” so I am gonna grab some 150 and a few sticks and give that a shot. Thanks for the help guys.


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[EwokArcher]

I agree with trad Bowyer. I'd personally be lightly rounding them edges with 120 grit on my palm sander. Dont get crazy rounding them just smooth it around so there arent sharp edges for the glass to split on. Itll be fine. I'd also wait to shape the handle till the very end of makes glueing overlays and stuff much easier.

[Fishinglink]

Thanks everyone that offered help. I used the paint stick method and after 20 minutes I had the oops taken care of and the rest of the edges broke over. Thanks to the heat, humidity and working outside all day that was about all I cared for. Stocked up on 120,220,320 grit sand paper today also. Glueing tip overlays on tomorrow. Debating an overlay on back of riser.


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[kennym]

 

[Fishinglink]

Well finally cooled down here with less humidity gonna bust out the tools and get this thing going. Got the tip overlays glued up Sunday. Time to start some shaping on the handle and tips. Pics tonight or tomorrow depending on progress.


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