here is my take on bareshafting.
i am a firm advocate for bareshafting and totally believe in it....done correctly.
one of the biggest problems with bareshafting is that many proponents of the technique insist that you shoot with your bow totally vertical, to avoid "false readings "on the target face.
i naturally shoot with my bow canted, my form is consistent, and accurate thus. now for me to change the angle of my bow for different shots, when in the field is not a problem, however when tuning, and i am chasing the finer details, i find trying to shoot vertically does affect my form.
when bareshafting you should have a large piece of paper with a vertical and a horizontal line( crosshairs) over your target- i find that really helps with analyzing the shot.
so to counter this canting this when bareshafting, i simply cant my target over to match the cant on my bow, and in the initial short-range bareshafting, i find the effects of gravity almost negligible compared to the effects produced by the bow and the arrow.
just what works for me.
just throwing the following thoughts out there, some are obvious, and they may or may not help.
are they 2 or 3 blade heads
i assume you are Right handed, as you made no mention of being a south paw
are the BH's long by design.
if 2 bladers are they vented or solid,
if 2 or 4 bladers are they all attached to the shafts in the same plane( really minor and in well tuned setups, this should not be a significant issue)
have you checked the broadheads weight on a grain scale compared to you field points.
you didnt say if they were wood or carbon, , but are the points spinning true when you spin the shafts on a spin tester( if they werent, the broadheads may be erratic- not consistantly high and right).
cheers.
and please let us know what you find, so we can store that info in our memory banks- nothing like vicarious tuning
Topic: Broadheads shooting high right 4” consistently (Read 2428 times)
