Looking for plans to build a template sander

[arachnid]

Hi Guys.
It takes my quite some time to get the riser to fit the form. I'm thinking a template sander will help speed things up and give me better results. I can't seem to find any plans that doesn't require a drill press (which I don't have).

If anyone built a template sander and willing to share the plans- I'd be grateful.

Thanks
Dor

[skeaterbait]

With the right bit you could use the same template on a router table. However, be aware that not all woods like routers. Figured woods, for instance, will tear out something awful.

[arachnid]

That's why I don't want to use a router.

[Forwardhandle]

I bought this templet sanding spindle, I use it with my drill press but you could probably chuck it with a motor and make a ply wood table for it , but I don't like it you still have to fine tune the riser after using it any way ,so I just went back to using the spindle sander to the lines and hand lapping to get a good fit

[Crooked Stic]

Dont use a router----dont ask. Never had much luck getting a good Robo Sander. Have you got any sanders to use?

[C. Johnson]

I built an attachment for my spindle sander and a bunch of templates with cantilever clamps to hold the risers down to a jig for sanding.  Works OK at best.  I haven't used them in months.

Truthfully, it's less work to just sand to the line manually.  I have enough practice now that it doesn't save me any time or improve my accuracy to use the pattern sander.

[C. Johnson]

Dont use a router----dont ask.

Sounds like you learned the hard way.  Just like me.

[Shredd]

I this is about as simple and easy as you can go...  Make your drum about 5-6" long by about 5-6" wide with laminated plywood and a 1/2" rod through it.... Wrap the drum with 1" wide sand paper and a little spray adhesive...  Then just attach a rub collar under the drum on a plywood table...  Make sure you put the rod through a 1/2" hole in the table and grease the hole or through a bearing on the table because if you don't the drum will move on you... 

[arachnid]

Rich, It seems your drum is attached to a drill press
 I don't have one. That's why I'm looking for other options.

[fujimo]

i have a spindle sander i modified- i had a mate turn up the rub collar, i shortened the rubber roller a bit to accommodate the collar, i removed the oscillating feature- and i made templates.
 i find it extremely accurate and fast, but maybe i am just a bad "hand sander"
i cut with my small bandsaw- then clamp to the template sand- flip it over and clamp to the second template- done in minutes- with paper thin fades

the sander was a 100$ unit from canadian tire.
mine is exactly like this one
https://www.amazon.ca/WEN-6510-Oscillating-Spindle-Sander/dp/B00LPFIPPQ?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_8tnjlwp1wv_e

but cost me less a few years ago- and has the mastercraft label

[arachnid]

I have a very similar spindle sander (mine made by Triton).
Can you post some pics of your setup?
And, do you use the 80 grit sleeves? I can find any less....

[fujimo]

i think i was using 50's
sure i will get some pics

[fujimo]

big thing was to remove the oscillating feature- i made a bushing from some old waterpipe to replace the discs that caused the oscillation.

i built my templates on the cheap too- i didnt use the clamps, i made my own.

just gotta go find my camera- i think its in the sock drawer

[fujimo]

but i think 80's would work just fine
just take a wee bit longer and leave a slightly smoother surface, i wanted the rough surface for glueing

[arachnid]

How did you remove the oscillation?

[fujimo]

you have to open the bottom, and remove the guts- the oscillation ( in mine) is comprised of two discs with bumps on them, and when these two disc turning at different speeds( one is belt driven with  speed reduction on it, the other is on the main shaft) every second or two the bumps coincide and they push each other apart from each other and the sanding sleeve/shaft is raised and lowered.
its super simple once you figure it out, just had to look at it and figure it out.
i took the belt driven disc off the shaft and replaced it with a metal pipe bush and a fender washer on either side of the pipe. so the remaining disc turns, but it isnt  raised and lowered anymore.
the sander has those plastic inserts, to go around the chosen rubber sleeve, well i made the rub collar to replace the insert- and drilled holes in it, and the collar is part of that.
 so the collar doesnt rotate- at doesnt damage the templates.

the templates i built with a bolt tightening sytem with flat bar- i need to weld some tabs on the bolts so i can tighten them by hand. i epoxied the nuts in place on the underside.
i

[fujimo]

here are some pics,
found the camera in the sock draw- but the battery  was dead   

you can see the collar and insert combo- and i drilled the holes in it for the dust extraction

so if i want to use a different size sleeve i can- but it just wont oscillate- no big deal

[fujimo]

thats the oscillating ring- that i removed.
the template is really simple- i used some 1/4" plexi glass (the rub collar is only a little over 1/4" thick)
as the template base- so it rubs against the rub collar- doesnt wear out easily, but i can sand it to get it perfectly tuned to the shape that i want-

then i have a door skin spacer  between the plexi and the block to raise my workpiece a smidge to get it against the sanding sleeve, and away from the rub collar. 

then i have the block/ spacer that matches my riser- so 1.5" thick- and the two clamps on the top. the flat bar clamps have a little piece of bicycle innertube glued on as grippers,
the back of the flat metal tab needs to be longer and the spacer block bigger- so that the clamps actually jambs against the spacer block- and in turn grips the workpiece better.
 my templates improved with each new edition

[fujimo]

so if you can figure it out from those sparse instructions you will be doing well
but it should get you going in a direction, and if you get stuck, just holler and i will talk you through the details at each pinch point.
like how tall to make the pipe bushing etc, as that effects how much sleeve is exposed above the table.

alternatively- send me the sander, i will do the conversion for you, but you would just need to pay for the collar being turned- i think it cost me $70 canadian, which is about $12.39 USD right now
and the return shipping.
 but for the most part, i think you could easily do the conversion, i must have taken mine apart and back together 5 or six times getting it all just right, but i am a tad OCD about stuff- like most of us are 

just holler dont be shy- and i can send you a phone no. if you want to talk over the phone and make it easier

good luck

[fujimo]

oops Dor,
just saw you are in Israel, so geuss we wont be doing any shipping back and forth, nor talking on the phone
but we can figure it out via the forum here
i actually prefer the spindle sander modifications, as i dont think the drills spin fast enough to get it done efficiently, and pushing against one side of the drill arbor wont be doing it any favours.
i found with the sander just take it slow- and make multiple passes- it worked great for me.

i also discovered that i needed to drill those dust extraction holes a bit bigger, the dust was clogging in those holes