Lifted a splinter.....

[flyonline]

Heard the dreaded 'click' a few days ago and let down immediately. Saw this splinter had lifted and parked the bow in the corner until I forgave it and want to get it back in action.

Specs:
Imperial Archery 62" Hickory Tri-lam
50#@28" (my d/l as well)
2015 build

Photos make it look worse than it is, but my plan was to wick in some TB2 (thinned?) behind the splinter then clamp. Once dried, sand lightly to remove the finish then bind with something compatible, silk etc. and more TB2.

Sound like a plan?

[Roy from Pa]

You could raise it up a tad and put thin super glue under it and then clamp it down.

Then wrap it tight with string serving and soak the serving with super glue.

Is that the back of the bow or the belly side?

Looks like where the splinter started, it could run up a few more inches with the thin sliver of wood there.

[flyonline]

Thanks Roy,

that's the back, so further lifting is likely and I'll reinforce well past the end of the crack towards the tip! My first thought was to wick in CA, however I've not had good experiences with CA once it gets wet and as this is a hunting bow it will get wet at some stage.

Cheers

Steve

[Roy from Pa]

You may consider backing the bow with sinew or rawhide.

That doesn't look like a very good piece of hickory on the back of that bow, as there are many grain run outs.

The ideal back of a bow is to get the wood to one single growth ring.

[Pat B]

Like Roy, I'd also use super glue for the repair and a backing. Brown grocery bag paper, rawhide, silk, linen, burlap. I would alsp round over the edges on the bow. Sharp edges also lift splinters.

[flyonline]

Thanks Pat, looking closer I see there is a serious probability of lifting one on the other limb, so I think I'll strip the cane grip and do the whole bow.

What's the easiest way to lift the splinter without making it worse and get the CA in there - bow stringer? Is a backing likely to increase the # much? Long story short, this is actually the second one of these I have after the 1st (40# version) developed serious chrysals in a very short time. I can see hints of a chrysal or two, but this has been shot a lot more than the first now.
 
Thinking silk will be the first option, sinew and/or rawhide are hard to come by over here so I might have to start keeping a few goat skins to cure up 

[Pat B]

You don't have to open the splinter much if you use thin super glue. A thin knife blade should open it enough to get the glue in. Use carpenter's glue for the silk backing.  Silk will not add any poundage, only protection.

[flyonline]

Finally got around to forgiving this bow and got on with fixing it.

First wicked in some CA behind the splinter than clamped until dry. Then sanded down lightly to make it all flush and remove small ridges of CA before removing all the finish on the back and backing with 2x layers of very light linen and TB3. I also rounded the corners a little more in the process.

So now I've removed all the excess fabric/glue and feathered off the edges of the backing, I've started slowly exercising it up towards full draw length. Am I wasting my time, or should I continue?

With regards to finish, I don't know what was on there but is there any way to tell, or any particular finish that is compatible with most other finishes?

Thanks

Steve

[Roy from Pa]

Keep working it, you gotta try.

Hard to say what the finish was, but when ready you could spray a polyurethane on it.

Ya got more pictures?

[KenH]

Backing, except sinew, will not increase the draw weight an ounce.  It will increase the overall mass of the bow, but again, not by very much unless you add a lamination to the entire back.

[Roy from Pa]

He is just trying to save the bow from a splinter, not increase weight.

[Eric Krewson]

This super glue soaked serving thread wrap is the best I found for keeping splinters down.

[Flem]

Surprised someone would sell a bow with such obvious grain violations. Guess sending it back from Australia isn't practical. If it was mine, I would be sure the maker knew what happened.
I have a homemade hickory bow that has severe grain runout also. Those are the kind of bows you give away, not sell.

Have to get down now, getting dizzy up here on my soapbox

[Wolftrail]

Surprised someone would sell a bow with such obvious grain violations. Guess sending it back from Australia isn't practical. If it was mine, I would be sure the maker knew what happened.
I have a homemade hickory bow that has severe grain runout also. Those are the kind of bows you give away, not sell.

Have to get down now, getting dizzy up here on my soapbox

I would never give-a-away a bow with bad grain runout incase of breakage in someone's face. 

[Flem]

" I would never give-a-away a bow with bad grain runout incase of breakage in someone's face"

You sure about that Dean?
I'd be happy to send some goggles with the bow

[Roy from Pa]

I cut bad grain boards into riser material.

[flyonline]

Yep, well aware I won't be adding poundage - as Roy says, just tryin' to stop any more splinters from lifting. I dig enough out of my hands cutting firewood for winter, don't want any more than I have already 

I can't really complain, this was given to me as a winner for writing a story on a local Oz bowhunting forum and came from the estate of a deceased member who had an extensive collection of bows and memorabilia. Ironically(?) this was a replacement for another of the exact same bow except in lower poundage I was originally gifted that developed bad frets at the top of the fades. A search doesn't bring up anything relevant on the maker, though I do remember finding something somewhere when I got the first bow a year or so ago.

Thread probably would have been my first choice for a one off local splinter, but Roy pointed out the chances of more developing, so I went for full coverage

Photos when I get a chance.

Thanks gents.

[Forwardhandle]

I did like Eric did on a hickory bow about 4 yrs ago still going strong 100s of arrows later Osage I use a tapered flax patch over the splenter & and thin raw hide  over the whole back !

[Eric Krewson]

Another option is to back the bow with bamboo, of course you will  have to retiller and drop some poundage. I have salvaged a bunch of lost cause hickory bows for people by backing them with bamboo.

[flyonline]

I did consider a boo backing but quickly realised my tillering skills aren’t up to the task so stayed simple for now.