Wood arrow tip reinforcement -- collars, "outserts," etc.

[YosemiteSam]

Been thinking about reinforcing some wood arrows for hunting.  While I could opt to buy some footed shafts, I'd prefer something more home-grown.  Has anybody tried some sort of "outsert" or collar for the heads?  I've seen something like this for carbon arrows using pieces of aluminum shaft over the carbon at the tip.  But is a similar thing, say with brass tubing, something workable for wood arrows? 

[Pat B]

Why do you want to add a collar to your wood arrows? Do they really need the support or are you trying to add weight?

[YosemiteSam]

Whenever I break a woodie, it always breaks at the tip.  Seems like the weak link in the chain.  I don't need the extra point weight but I don't shoot well enough to notice small differences in dynamic spine anyway.  An extra 20 or 30 grains up front never changed my point of impact at hunting ranges.

[Pat B]

I've had arrows break at the point also but only if I hit a rock or a glancing blow off a tree. I guess an arrow can break in an animal but that would allow the broadhead to float around inside the animal doing more damage. IMO it isn't necessary but if something you want to do it won't hurt anything. Adding 25grs to the front will decrease the dynamic spine by about 5#. Let us know how it works out...pics too. 

[Rock 'N Bow]

I received a few of these arrows in trade. They are 11/32" cedars with a section of 2413 shafting and inserts. They accept screw in points, but I'm sure just the footing would strengthen any shaft using glue on points.

[slowbowjoe]

I have the same issue breaking wood shafts behind the point,and asked about footings here a few years ago.Was told a section of 2413 aluminum would fit an 11/32" shaft.
I haven't tried it yet; meanwhile I've been using Reparrows to renew the life of those broken shafts, and have used dozens.

[M60gunner]

I have read about “footing “ woods. I even have seen a chart for which aluminum shaft fits which diameter wood shaft. I haven’t tried it yet as I read the shaft will break behind the foot. I also read it’s weak at that area because of the point taper? This past year I tried the Top Hat system, no point taper, screw on the point. Can’t really say how effective as I have only lost arrows not broken any yet. Big issue is not broad heads for this system!

[YosemiteSam]

I have the same issue breaking wood shafts behind the point,and asked about footings here a few years ago.Was told a section of 2413 aluminum would fit an 11/32" shaft.
I haven't tried it yet; meanwhile I've been using Reparrows to renew the life of those broken shafts, and have used dozens.

Reparrows -- Brilliant!

[1Longbow]

I wonder if that heat shrink tubing could be used for a little added strength

[slowbowjoe]

1longbow, I tried some heat shrink in hopes of saving my Judo's when the tip broke and went flying somewhere; it didn't work for me. Could be the hardware store option wasn't the right stuff?

[Jim Wright]

My experience is that wood arrows break and has been noted, usually behind the point. I have used Cedar, Sitka Spruce and Douglas Fir and some hardwood footed Cedar and Fir. It has been my experience that the Fir is a bit more durable and from Surewood Shafts always top quality, I don't remember ever receiving a shaft that wasn't. On the shafts with the aluminum sleeve I suspect that when you break them it will almost always be right behind the aluminum.

[slowbowjoe]

"On the shafts with the aluminum sleeve I suspect that when you break them it will almost always be right behind the aluminum."

X2. Same thing often happens with the Reparrows also; my premium Doug Fir's often break behind the footing, when they break (the 2nd time).  whether the point itself, a collar, or a hardwood footing, seems like the weakness will be where it ends.

[Shawn Rackley]

About 12 years ago I was having the same problem. My wood arrows would break right behind the taper. So as stated above I put an aluminum collar (about 2") behind  point taper. And as stated above, the just broke behind the footing. Tried it the other way too, by glueing the insert in the aluminum directly only for the same results.  I do a lot of stump shooting and this was my reason for wanting to strengthen the point end. I finally got tired of breaking wood arrows and went to shooting carbon shafts. I can't afford to replace wood arrows everytime i want to go stump shooting. The drill in internal footing for wood arrows might work better. But never tried it.

[longstiks]

Iv'e used the internal footing and 3" of welding rod and had good success with the tips not breaking behind the points. The 1/8'' rod does add about 60 gr. to the tip though.