Fmj inserts

[Buckeye1977]

I've been looking at getting some fmj arrows but have been reading some mixed reviews on the hit inserts. For those of you who are shooting them are you using the hit sert or something different?

[sneakybow]

I use the HIT insert in those, and in my Black Eagle Rampages. I like them way more than any of the half out options on the market and I've tried quite a few of those.

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[KAZ]

I personally have always used the HIT - Hidden Inserts with Axis or FMJ arrows... I’ve used the Aluminum that come with them and the brass ones you can get for higher weight. They’ve always worked fine for me, but I do foot my arrows for extra protection...

[bucknut]

I use the HIT inserts but I use Big Jims hot melt on them.  It's a pain to do but worth it.  Once you epoxy them in, they are forever.  Sometimes they pull a vacuum when you pull the setting tool out of the shaft, not letting your points bottom out.  That sucks!
Not much need to foot them unless you stump with them in my experience. I've been using them for about 10 years and have had really good luck with them. FMJ's are tough.

[Bisch]

I use the brass HIT inserts in my FMJ’s. I have no problems with any kind of failure at the front end of my arrows. FMJ’s are tough as nails!!!

I also use Big Jim’s Quick Stick hot melt when installing the brass inserts. That makes them very easy to remove if/when needed.

Bisch

[Hoosierarcher88]

I use hit inserts and either goldtip ballistic collars or vpa center punch footers on all of my axis diameter shafts

[cacciatore]

I personally have always used the HIT - Hidden Inserts with Axis or FMJ arrows... I’ve used the Aluminum that come with them and the brass ones you can get for higher weight. They’ve always worked fine for me, but I do foot my arrows for extra protection...

X2

[Bill Carlsen]

I've been shooting Axis/FMJ since they first came out. I have had no issues but I foot them with 1" aluminum sleeves I make from old aluminum shafts. Have only had one issue in all these years and they are great hunting arrows.

[larry f]

I have been using the FMJ arrows, I have used the inserts that glue on that I purchased from Joe at tuffhead. I use these because they match my hunting arrows in weight which makes for a high FOC .

[KAZ]

For those of you using Big Jim’s Hot Melt for installing the HIT inserts, what is your technique/process to ensure the depth and everything else. Same as the Epoxy and using the provided tool? Just heating the insert, applying hot melt, shove in?

I’ve always used the epoxy but I have had one that either had the vacuum issue or the insert stuck to the tool a little when backing out.... That was frustrating when the tip didn’t bottom out. So I have one arrow that now has a 5 grain brass washer on the tip so it bottoms out properly, but I do not want that to happen again.... I’ve done several dozen over the years with no issue but it did happen once!

Thanks in advance

[Bisch]

KAZ, I have the “puck” shaped glue (not the stick that go in a glue gun). What I do is to barely screw the insert onto a field point. Then I heat the insert a little in the torch flame. Then I heat the glue puck face up a little in the torch flame (do not get it hot enough to make smoke). Then I roll the insert in the glue, and quickly slide it into the shaft so that the end of the insert is even with the end of the shaft. I then remove the field point, roll the end of the shaft on a paper towel to remove the excess glue that was squeezed out while installing the insert, and use the hit tool to seat the insert to the proper depth.

I also index all my broadheads the same. All I do is screw a broadhead on, and if it is not in the proper orientation, I heat the shaft just a tad and rotate the head to the desired position. This can also be done in the field with a disposable lighter.

Bisch

[Gooserbat]

For those of you using Big Jim’s Hot Melt for installing the HIT inserts, what is your technique/process to ensure the depth and everything else. Same as the Epoxy and using the provided tool? Just heating the insert, applying hot melt, shove in?

I’ve always used the epoxy but I have had one that either had the vacuum issue or the insert stuck to the tool a little when backing out.... That was frustrating when the tip didn’t bottom out. So I have one arrow that now has a 5 grain brass washer on the tip so it bottoms out properly, but I do not want that to happen again.... I’ve done several dozen over the years with no issue but it did happen once!

Thanks in advance

Pull the nock when gluing the inserts.

[KAZ]

Thanks Bisch and Gooserbat!

[bigbadjon]

I like Firenock's insert for .204 inside diameter shafts. That said I have also not had any of the issues with the HIT inserts that naysayers tout as prevalent. I also use a 24 cure 2 part epoxy.

[Bisch]

For those of you using Big Jim’s Hot Melt for installing the HIT inserts, what is your technique/process to ensure the depth and everything else. Same as the Epoxy and using the provided tool? Just heating the insert, applying hot melt, shove in?

I’ve always used the epoxy but I have had one that either had the vacuum issue or the insert stuck to the tool a little when backing out.... That was frustrating when the tip didn’t bottom out. So I have one arrow that now has a 5 grain brass washer on the tip so it bottoms out properly, but I do not want that to happen again.... I’ve done several dozen over the years with no issue but it did happen once!

Thanks in advance

Pull the nock when gluing the inserts.

Just curious as to why you would do that??? I never have, and have had no issues glueing in my inserts.

Bisch


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[the rifleman]

Hit inserts and big jims hot melt.  Nothing not to like.  Just dont use their epoxy unless you want them in forever.

[sneakybow]

For those of you using Big Jim’s Hot Melt for installing the HIT inserts, what is your technique/process to ensure the depth and everything else. Same as the Epoxy and using the provided tool? Just heating the insert, applying hot melt, shove in?

I’ve always used the epoxy but I have had one that either had the vacuum issue or the insert stuck to the tool a little when backing out.... That was frustrating when the tip didn’t bottom out. So I have one arrow that now has a 5 grain brass washer on the tip so it bottoms out properly, but I do not want that to happen again.... I’ve done several dozen over the years with no issue but it did happen once!

Thanks in advance

Were you removing the nocks before inserting the inserts? That helps a lot. I've never had an issue with the HIT inserts as long as you don't set them standing up with uncured epoxy or glue. I just use the orange Easton glue now and call it good.

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[sneakybow]

For those of you using Big Jim’s Hot Melt for installing the HIT inserts, what is your technique/process to ensure the depth and everything else. Same as the Epoxy and using the provided tool? Just heating the insert, applying hot melt, shove in?

I’ve always used the epoxy but I have had one that either had the vacuum issue or the insert stuck to the tool a little when backing out.... That was frustrating when the tip didn’t bottom out. So I have one arrow that now has a 5 grain brass washer on the tip so it bottoms out properly, but I do not want that to happen again.... I’ve done several dozen over the years with no issue but it did happen once!

Thanks in advance

Pull the nock when gluing the inserts.

Just curious as to why you would do that??? I never have, and have had no issues glueing in my inserts.

Bisch


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Because it seals the shaft creating back pressure and if you are using a slow cure epoxy it can push them forward. Removing the nock breaks that seal and lets air get to the epoxy from the back side as well to cure.

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[KAZ]

I have never removed the nocks while installing the inserts. To be clear, I’ve only had the issue of the insert sliding forward a 1/64” during cure once but it was recent. I just assumed the insert stuck a little to the insert tool when I removed it due to excess glue. When others mentioned vacuum as the possible cause and Gooserbat recommended pulling the nocks during installation it made perfect sense to mitigate pressure from inside the shaft. I’ve always made certain to keep them horizontal during the entire cure time so they don’t move due to gravity...

I’ve only had this issue once, and the shaft is still usable with one 5 grain brass washer. However, now that I’m aware of it I will take additional steps to ensure it never does again! By the time you get wraps, fletching, footings, inserts, tuning,  broadheads, etc.... You have a lot invested and riding on these babies. I want them precise and they have always served me well. Thanks again everyone!

[Bisch]

Ok! I can see where it might make a difference with the epoxy that takes a day to cure!!! But with the hot melt, it is not an issue, and even if it did happen, you would just apply a little heat and re-seat it properly.

I personally don’t like taking the kicks out of my FMJ’s unless I need to. They seem to get looser the more times they are taken out and put back in.

Bisch