Compound to trad conversion questions...with new questions!

[OkKeith]

I have an older compound riser I am thinking of putting trad limbs on. From what plane on the riser do you measure from to determine limb pocket angle? I have seen varied recommendations on optimal length for the riser. What is the consensus on that?

I will try and get some photos up for everyone to look at and comment on.

Thanks,
OkKeith

[kennym]

For the limb pockets angle, you should be able to lay a straightedge from tip to tip and check angle off it. I have no idea on the riser length question, I don't have an ilf bow . 

On my TD longbow, I have a 16" riser because the sight window starts getting shorter than I like  if its less...

[Roy from Pa]

17 inches is about middle of the road for riser length.

That is where a lot of companies check the weight of their limbs at, 17 inches.

A shorter riser will yield more weight and a longer riser will yield less weight, by about 1 pound per inch plus or minus.

21" compound riser warfed out.

[monterey]

I have an older compound riser I am thinking of putting trad limbs on. From what plane on the riser do you measure from to determine limb pocket angle? I have seen varied recommendations on optimal length for the riser. What is the consensus on that?

I will try and get some photos up for everyone to look at and comment on.

Thanks,
OkKeith

I did one recently and found first off that the thing that was going to determine the limb angle was the relationship of the limb pads to the angle of the limb bolts.  Here is a picture showing the angle of the bolt.

In order to bed the limbs evenly I had to change the angular relationship of the limb pads to the bolts.  I did it with a couple of window shims.

Still not perfect but acceptable.

This is a PSE Nova riser and once modified had the same limb angle as the same limbs on a Bear riser and identical performance.

[Roy from Pa]

1993 Martin Pantera converted to ILF

[OkKeith]

KennyM- Thanks for the help. It looks like this riser is quite a bit longer than yours. May have to do some modification.

Roy- That's a great looking bow! So if the riser is 23 inches, a set of 50# limbs would give me a 44# bow... did I think that through correct?

Monterey- That's good thinking. Are those made of some sort of urethane or just plastic? It looks like there is not much support for a limb base on my riser. I may need to put a flat spacer in there and then something to dampen vibration. I use the synthetic gasket material from the auto parts store under the limbs of my other take downs.

Here are some photos of the riser below. Its is a little longer than most of you recommend but it is very narrow. If I go with shorter limbs does that alter the formula on the draw weight?

Thanks again for the advice. I may pick up a pair of "inexpensive" limbs and see what happens.

OkKeith

[Roy from Pa]

Yes 44 pounds would be close but limb pad angle plays a part in it too a little.

This is my first experience with ilf bows too.

I sent  back the first set of limbs to exchange for a 5 pound heavier pair.

Sent you a PM, Keith.

[monterey]

Monterey- That's good thinking. Are those made of some sort of urethane or just plastic?

They are softish and flexible but I don't know what they are made of.  They are usually sold as wood tapers but I came across these at Ace.  The tiller came out 1/8 positive with no adjustment whatsoever.

Roy is talking ILF, but what im showing is a simple bolt down "frankenbow" with Sage limbs.  They are probably the most economical way to go for limb experimentation but you mentioned your riser is narrow so you might want to check the width of any limbs you consider.

Roy, that's a nice looking chair.  Did it hurt much to get out of it long enough to take the pictures?

[Roy from Pa]

Only for a little while:)

[OkKeith]

Thanks again for all the help and advice. The limb pockets seem to be narrower than standard. I put some of the limbs from my various take downs on it (Not bolted, just for effect and to see how it looks) and the bases are all too wide.

Hmmm... not sure.

I know its silly but I'm most looking forward to the paint/camo job on this one. I have a turkey hunt planned this spring. We are headed out to Western Oklahoma and the Black Kettle National Grasslands. I'm not sure what a Tallgrass Prairie camo scheme looks like but that's what I am shooting for.

OkKeith

[OkKeith]

Thanks again for all the comments and help. This project is on its way I think.

I have a few additional questions...

I ordered some "budget" recurve limbs online. Black glass, maple lams... basic and cheap. I really wanted to try some long bow limbs on this riser but buying those would put me more than half way to a new (budget priced) bow so not what I wanna do right now. My whole reason for building this bow on a budget is I want to do a camo job on it for a grassland area I have a Spring Turkey hunt planned for. Shooting rattle can paint on one of my other bows or a new one... I just can't bring myself to do that. So, I am taking a riser I had laying around and putting inexpensive limbs on it.

All that to get to the questions.

1. To apply paint to the limbs do I need to hit them with some 220 sandpaper and wipe down with acetone to prep the surface? I mean... I know this is how to prep a paint surface I just don't want the limbs to fall apart due to my inexperience with painting fiberglass and such.
2. Once painted is it preferable to spray a clear matte over the paint to fix it better? Will the surface treatment be flexible enough and not crack when the bow is drawn?
3. The riser looks like it has a baked on or powder coat type of surface. The plan is to rough it up and shoot it with rattle can as well. Best approach?

I have built several bows (self, wood on wood lam, 1 FG) but never painted anything. It is ENTIRELY possible I am TOTALLY over thinking all this! Just part of my process I suppose.

Thanks again for all the help! I will of course post photos of the project progress.

OkKeith