ILF brass bushing seized - help!

[tcw]

Pretty new to ILF, and I think I may have over-tightened the limb and driven the brass bushing into the nylon? The bushing is not moving and I cannot mount the limb - the bushing is driven into the nylon too far. Before I go into the garage and put this thing in the vice and start trying to manually force it loose - are there any easy or smarter fixes for this?

Also, good time to ask about how tight to bolt the limbs down while I'm at it...

Thanks!

[Possum Head]

Post it on the Bowyers bench too. Lots of knowledge there. Not that the Pow Wow is eat up with dummies 

[tcw]

Haha - well, as for dummies, it seems I may be one myself...

I wrapped the bushing in duct tape, got the ole' vice grips and it came free with ease. 

I'd still like to know the proper operations of the limb bolt - as in wrench to "snug", or wrench to "tight".

[George Vernon]

Short Allen wrench using only finger tip pressure.  Just want to bottom out the sleeve.  Most manufacturers will also advise to then back the bolt out half to full turn.  I don’t think they are meant to be shot bottomed out.

[wingnut]

ILF is not meant to be shot all the way down.  You should be able to take the limbs in and out without adjusting the limb bolt.   Snug and then back off 1/4 turn is the max.  snug and back off 4 turns is the Min.

Mike

[bigbadjon]

I like to shoot mine 2 turns out and only adjust for tiller from there. Guys that use the limb bolts to tune for draw weight are not utilizing the system effectively imo.

[bigbadjon]

I think I may have misunderstood the problem. Are you putting the limbs in and then snugging down the bolts? Once you have the bolts set where you want you just put in the limbs and the are held by tension. You don't have to snug the bolt to the limbs.

[old_goat2]

I start pretty much like bigbadjohn, loosen from slightly snug two full turns then adjust to proper tiller, once I have proper tiller set I'll make a little mark on both bolts at 12 o'clock. The marks will help you make equal adjustments when tuning. The only ILF bows that I know of, which isn't saying a lot, that can be shot with the bolts all the way in is the Hoyt Satori and I'm not positive on it, but was told that by somebody that I trust to know.

[tcw]

Thanks guys.  I'll explain a smidge more what I was doing:

I have 45# limbs and wanted to get closer to that 47# range, so I was cranking them all the way. So, yes - once I got them on and strung, I would tighten them till they stopped. I definitely went past "snug" and I was not back-turning at all, so making errors there it would seem.

All's well now and I appreciate as always the wealth of knowledge from this crew. Be well, gents.

[old_goat2]

Thanks guys.  I'll explain a smidge more what I was doing:

I have 45# limbs and wanted to get closer to that 47# range, so I was cranking them all the way. So, yes - once I got them on and strung, I would tighten them till they stopped. I definitely went past "snug" and I was not back-turning at all, so making errors there it would seem.

All's well now and I appreciate as always the wealth of knowledge from this crew. Be well, gents.

the snug point should be found before you mount limbs or at least before strung, you start two turns out then you know how much you can turn in, and with tiller adjustment factored in you can't go two full turns in on both bolts unless they are even tiller maybe, I try to stay at least one full turn out but that's just me.