Riser template/jig for edge sander?

[Mike L.]

Just got the Grizzly 1531 6" x 80" edge sander, and I've been trying to think of how to make a jig or template for riser shaping.  I've seen a few pictures of a jig going around, but I honestly don't quite understand how it works.  Is there a thread y'all can point me to, or maybe somebody would explain to me how to get started?  Really any info that would help me figure out how to unlock the potential of this beast would be welcome.  Since I got it up on the bench I feel like I shrunk.

[Crooked Stic]

The first thing you need to do is get the drive drum off the motor and take it to be machined flat except about 1 in. on the ends. You will see three bolts in the motor cover. Now you need a table. Alum. or phenolic mine is steel about 3/8s thick. put a slot in the plate to clear the shaft. You need three holes in it to match the motor holes. The center one countersunk. You need a rub pin in the plate to stick out about .090 past the drum with no belt on it. I use 60 grit. and three spacers on the motor bolts and some shim stock to square it up. Clear as mud. I will take some pics for you today.

[Mike L.]

I think I’m following some of it, but pics would be awesome.  I think this is to allow a template to ride up to the sanding surface?


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[Crooked Stic]

Mine has a guide roller. But the pin would be as good and a bunch cheaper to do. Will get more pics.

[Flem]

Damn, thats a nice setup. I would like to trade my spindle sander for that rig.

[kennym]

Mike , you got a pic of the pin setup? Can't quite figure how it would work...

[Crooked Stic]

Have not got a pic of the pin. But it would be in the plate right under the center of the drum. about .090 past the edge of the drum. I think Brandon made some out of phenolic. Maybe he has a pic. You see where my plate is cut too far for a pin. For the pin just need a slot big enough to clear the shaft.

[Mike L.]

I’m not understanding the part about having the drive drum machined flat up to 1” from the end.  Can’t be the drum itself, can’t be flat.  I feel stupid asking that, but I can’t figure it out.  Drum can’t be flat I don’t think...


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[Mike L.]

The top of the motor cover machine flat so you can mount a table on it?!  Light bulb?  All I had to do was ask.


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[Mike L.]

Not quite sure that’s it, either. 

I think you’re taking that domed portion off the motor cover so it will accept a table.  Having a hard time seeing how a pin would do the same thing as the guide bearing, too. 


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[Mike L.]

I’m starting to see how this could totally be a game changer.  One positive thing about having moved to the city is that there’s all kinds of industrial supply and machine shops within a half mile of my new house.  Should be pretty easy to get going on this Monday if any of them are open.  Washington gets a couple inches of snow and you’d think it was the apocalypse. 

Oh, got some killer news today; I’ve got a 2 piece takedown 66” whip coming from Mr. Toelke on Monday, way ahead of schedule.  I had one years ago that was the smoothest shooting bow ever.


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[Robertfishes]

I’m not understanding the part about having the drive drum machined flat up to 1” from the end.  Can’t be the drum itself, can’t be flat.  I feel stupid asking that, but I can’t figure it out.  Drum can’t be flat I don’t think...


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The Aluminum Drive Drum is Barrel shaped, that is what keeps the belt on the drive drum. I had mine machined flat in the center 4 inches leaving the upper and lower 1 inch the only part tapered. When you grind wood you must use the "flat" 4 inch part of the drum.. New drums were only $45 5 years ago, I bought one and some new bearings for spare parts... 

[Mike L.]

Oh, I had no idea it was barrel shaped.  Thank you for clearing that up. 


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[Robertfishes]

One of my friends turned the center 4 inches flat for me. I was not there but I think he used a metal lathe. My Pattern sander looks like Crooked Stic's but my friend made a circle piece of 1/4" aluminum a little bigger than the drum instead of a bearing like Crooked Stic's.   

[Mike L.]

How was the circular piece attached?  To the work surface under the drum?


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[Crooked Stic]

I may be loosing my mind here. Seem to be losing posts. And if I try to post pics out of my files I get the same pic two or three times instead of each different thing ??? anyhow you need the spacers to get above the dome on the cover.

[Robertfishes]

Mike, the donut looking circular rub plate is attached to the 3/8" aluminum table. The motor shaft goes thru center of it.  There are 3 counter sunk screws thru the rub plate and the 3/8" table was tapped to accept the screws. I can rotate the rub plate when it shows wear.

[Wolftrail]

@ Mike L.    Be careful using that type of sander.  I was sanding a small piece with it and the belt suddenly caught the work piece and sent it flying,  my finger was holding onto it for dear life so what happened is the tip of my finger was left hanging there by some skin.  I cleaned it and flipped back the finger tip.  I was lucky, it could of ripped off my nail...

[Mike L.]

Wolftrail, I hear that, man.  I jointed the tip of my middle finger back in March.  I felt the blade hit several times.  I didn’t want to look at it.  Missed the bone by a hair. 

[fujimo]

man, power tools are so fast-things sure happen in ahurry.

i dont quite know how the grizzly is set up- but one only needs one of the rollers to be cambered for keeping the belt on, the other roller cam be completely flat.

so, one could flatten the roller into a true cylinder if need be. might make it easier for setting up the rub collar etc