Phenolic alternatives

[Wolftrail]

Not sure if my subject line explains what I'm after.  At any rate I want to glue on a lam about 3/16" thick on the back of the handle of a one piece bow.  What I'm after is a colored lam, what the heck can I use besides Phenolic..?  Or can I color a piece of wood.  I have plastic resin so I can add water based color to it.   

[Bvas]

Are you talking like an overlay on a laminated bow?

What color are you after?

[Wolftrail]

No.  I just want more meat and/or more support on the back so I can have a moderate forward handle.  Color...?  green, black, white.

[skeaterbait]

Are you talking about this?

[Wolftrail]

It wil be a lam that is longer than the fades.  This is a wood bow nothing fancy like the FG bows

[KenH]

Wood color stains.  Most hardware stores will carry them.  Some come as almost paste, others more liquid.  Rub on, then seal with clear -- tungoil/urethane.  I recently stained a museum replica I build of a fretted zither that was originally built in the early 1860s.  I used a combination of Crimson MinWax water-based wiping stain under an oil-based walnut stain to get just the right hue...

[fujimo]

were you possibly looking for a piece of stabilised wood- that way colour could be added, and one could work it, and not lose any of the colour as one works into the piece of wood.
that would open up all kinds of burls etc as an option

[Mike L.]

What about Micarta? 


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[Robertfishes]

I have used multiple pieces of fiberglass. The first few I use core-tuff then for outer piece I use bo-tuff. Glue glass on before you cut out shelf and window. I have also used fiberglass for handle overlays.

[BMorv]

Wolf, it's not a good idea to have the overlay longer than the fades in this case.  If that area is bending, which it will be since it's longer than the fades, it will more than likely pop off.
If you sandwiched it between a backing then you would be fine to have it longer than the fades.  That's what I call a power lam and I do that on most backed bows I build. 
That's why you see those overlays like in skeater's pic where they stop in a none bending part of the handle well short of the fades.
If you do an overlay like in the pic, there's no limitations to what you can use there. 

 
 

[Wolftrail]

Wolf, it's not a good idea to have the overlay longer than the fades in this case.  If that area is bending, which it will be since it's longer than the fades, it will more than likely pop off.
If you sandwiched it between a backing then you would be fine to have it longer than the fades.  That's what I call a power lam and I do that on most backed bows I build. 
That's why you see those overlays like in skeater's pic where they stop in a none bending part of the handle well short of the fades.
If you do an overlay like in the pic, there's no limitations to what you can use there. 

"longer than the fades"   My mistake,  it should be shorter is right, and I plan also to have a backing go right over it full length.

[Crooked Stic]

Yeah I was thinking longer may be not good if the bow is flexing there.

[Wolftrail]

One guy mentioned Micarta as an alternative  is there anything else besides that or Phenolic or hard wood.      My whole plan is to simply beef up the back and build up that area for a forward handle.

[Flem]

My original subject line read Phenolic alternatives :   One guy mentioned Micarta as an alternative  is there anything else besides that or Phenolic or hard wood.   

You bet there is. Get yourself some casting epoxy, milled fibers and colorant. Find a suitable shallow container and make your own. Any size , shape or color you like.
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/epoxacast/