Hickory board bow

[wapitishooter]

Ok getting close to finishing up on my bow. Question I have is do I need to round edges on limbs? If so how much does the back need more rounded or the belly? Its really tillering nice and shaping up nicely. Any help here appreciated

[Pat B]

Always round over the edges mainly to prevent splinters from lifting but also I think it "softens" the appearance of the bow. The old timers used to say to round the edges to the radius of a pea, about 1/4". I usually take 3 good scrapes along the edge. One at about 45 degrees, one a bit more and one a bit less. With a good sanding over that I get a nice rounded edge, not 1/4" but not much less.

[Roy from Pa]

What Pat said X's 2.

Also you should round over the edges before even starting the tiller bending process...

[Pat B]

Yes!   

[wapitishooter]

Thanks for replys I did not know should've rounded corners before tillering got lots to learn. Will this have hurt integrity of bow by not doing the rounding first?

[skeaterbait]

As long as you didn't raise a splinter or spontaneously disassemble, you will be fine. Round the edges and recheck your tiller.

[Pat B]

It probably won't affect the tiller or the draw weight. The corners that are removed are dead weight anyway and not being utilized at all. I continually round the corners as the stave goes from stave form to bow as I remove wood. Mostly from the belly side but sometimes from the back if the edges are reduced or straightened. If you keep the edges rounded from the start you will have less chance of a splinter lifting.

[wapitishooter]

I rounded the edges this morning. Doesn't seem to have affected tiller. Next question is this, Checking draw weight it is 52lb at 22 in I really like to have around 45 lb at 28. should I just use scraper now or could I rasp some wood to get where I want. What do you guys suggest. My draw is 31 in my bow is 68 1/2 long.

[skeaterbait]

I would suggest starting with the scraper and work with it a while. When you get a better feel for how much wood loss equates to how much weight you can ween in to a rasp. A rasp takes a lot of wood very quickly and it's quite easy to overshoot your target weight.

It's also suggested that you never pull the bow past your target weight, so if your target is 45# never pull past that. You won't really hurt the bow unless you go way over, but common practice is not to stress the wood over what you actually need it to do.

[Pat B]

I'd also suggest using a scraper from now on and start pulling to 45# as you head for full draw. That should insure you don't go too far.
 I've been building wood bows for 30 years or so and once I started using a scraper exclusively from just beyond floor tiller stage my bent sticks have been bows. It slowed me down enough to help keep over doing things. A few scrapes, a little exercise, check tiller and weight and go back to scraping. I'm never in a rush to tiller a bow. I prefer to thoughtfully steer the bow to a well tillered full draw.

[wapitishooter]

Thanks again for info. I didn't know what the weight was until the day I posted,I just got a scale and checked it that day. Hopefully it wont ruin the bow for long haul. Lots to learn about bow building but so far really like it. Need to learn how to post pics.

[Roy from Pa]

This link will help with posting pictures.

Be aware if using a cell phone for pictures, go into the camera settings and choose a very small format.

That info is further down in the link.

http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=160865.0

[wapitishooter]

Thanks for info on pictures will try this not real computer savvy

[wapitishooter]

Ok guys been scraping limbs to try and get to desired weight Im now at 44 lbs at 24 in. I want to have this weight at 28. Now my draw is 31 and Im really starting to wonder if this bow will be ok to draw that far? Bow is 68 in nock to nock. What is your guys thoughts on this? limbs seem to be tillering nicely.

[Roy from Pa]

68 inches should be fine for a 31" draw.

Keep going, you need to lose 8 more pounds.

You gain approximately 2 pounds more per inch of draw.

[Pat B]

What Roy said.  Keep tillering and pulling to 44# until you get to 28". If everything is OK with the tiller go out and shoot a few arrows trying to pull only 28". This may change the tiller some but you should have enough room to make the corrections.
 Have you been exercising the bow between wood removal sessions? That is very important and helps to eliminate the break in period.

[Roy from Pa]

X's 2 on Pat.

I exercise the bow 30 pulls, the same distance as you were on the tree after every wood removal session.

[wapitishooter]

Yes I exercise the bow after every wood removal no matter how little I think ive taken off. really appreciate the help guys. been working on it today and real close to weight. want to finish sand with orbital sander is this good idea or should I continue and finish byhand?

[Roy from Pa]

Nope do not use the orbital sander.

It will put swirl marks in it and you will still have to hand sand to remove them.

[Forwardhandle]

I also have a 31" draw and have a couple self bows of hickory & a couple sinew backed shorter ones both the self bows are 68" ntn  I do mine a little different then using the scraper when I get the bow to good tiller and heavy I scribe pencil lines all over the working limbs and use sanding sticks to remove the lines it's more time consuming but will get you to your draw at perfect weight & tiller I make sure I exsersise  the bow frequently doing it !