Handle wrap

[skeaterbait]

I have a riser I made that is mostly good except I took the grip area down a little farther than a care for, so I want to do a wrap. I even gave it a whirl and overall the wrap was ok except that in the valley of the grip the leather bunched up a bit.

Does anyone know of a good build along that could take a slow movin' Missouri boy through how to get a good wrap? I didn't see anything in the build a long section.

[Bowjunkie]

There is no shortcut for experience.

  

[Bowjunkie]

Sorry. Couldn't pass that one up.

More info might help. What kind of leather did you use? How deep is the throat of the grip. If they're too deep, like a deepthroated recurve, I don't bother. Did you use any adhesive? I generally use deer leather because it's stretchy and can be pulled down into and around curves in the grip, but it's got enough body to help keep it from bunching up. I also spray the backside of the leather with 3M spray adhesive. Other brands would work too.

[Wolftrail]

Would it help to have the leather wrap very narrow thinking it wont bunch up. 

[skeaterbait]

The leather I have is scraps from automotive seat leather. It's not super thick but not like buckskin either. No adhesive.

I basically measured the top circumference and the bottom, as well I measured the throat. I tried to guesstimate the shape needed to have the stitching holes line up in the front of the bow.

[Flem]

Try using 3-4oz oil tanned leather (thin), its more pliable than veggie tanned or Latigo style leather.
Get it wet, but not soaked and wrap it on your handle, over celllophane if your worried about getting the bow finish wet and wrap over that with a ace bandage, or something similar that will breathe so it can dry.

[Roy from Pa]

How about a few pictures of the grip.

Like mentioned, tanned deer hide is very stretchy.

[TattooDave]

Wrap the handle in masking tape, then make a vertical cut where the stitching would be. Peel the tape off and that will give you a perfectly shaped pattern for the leather.

Hope that makes sense, I don't have any pics to demonstrate.

Tattoo Dave

[BMorv]

Wrap the handle in masking tape, then make a vertical cut where the stitching would be. Peel the tape off and that will give you a perfectly shaped pattern for the leather.

Hope that makes sense, I don't have any pics to demonstrate.

Tattoo Dave

I was going to mention this method... So X2 on what Dave said.

[Bowjunkie]

Skeater, I measure it for length only. Usually 4". But I usually cut it a little longer initially, add maybe 1/4", cuz sometimes I lose a little length as I stretch it around. If I dont lose any while fitting it up, I can always trim it later.

I cut it a bit long in the front too at first, where the stitching will go. Then work at pulling it around and down into the curves, and get it fitting good, in general... removing it to trim the top or bottom edges that are obviously getting too long. It can 'grow' as you pull and fit it down into the contours and you may have to trim it several times.

The last part cut is the front, where the stitching goes. I just wrap it around where it needs to be, overlap the two pieces in the front, and mark them at the center of the front of the handle, and cut that excess off.

At this point it is all fitting good, the top and bottom edges are straight, and the ends that will be stitched are straight down the front of the handle, either just touching if the leather is a type that won't stretch much more, or separated by 1/16" or a hair more if I think the leather is stretchy enough that they will pull together when stitching.

At this time, I skive the last 1/4" or so of the top and bottom edges of the leather, on the underside, so when it's layed on the bow, it 'rolls into' or fades into the bow, showing no edge to the leather, but it isn't necessary of course.

Once everything is fit and trimmed, I remove it, and spray the inside of the leather with the adhesive, excluding the last 1/4" or so where it will be stitched. It's unnecessary there and the glue just gets on the needles making them harder to push through the leather. With the adhesive on the back of the leather, it's then carefully put in place where it's supposed to be, paying particular attention that it goes properly down into the contoured area, and then stitched down the front.

I do NOT prepunch holes. I just use two big needles, start at the top, and sew my way down to the bottom, careful to maintain even thread spacing by eye. Done. Any questions, fire away.

[Bowjunkie]

The masking tape deal won't work with stretchy leather, which I prefer for contoured grips. I never cared for how the water thing worked either, but hey, give it a shot. Try em all.

Deer leather is the ticket. Elk isn't too bad either.

[skeaterbait]

Thank you all. Very informative.

[Roy from Pa]

The masking tape trick above will get you close to your final size needed.

Then if using deer hide, it will need trimmed a  bit but no biggie.

[Forwardhandle]

I have used the masking tape trick in the past worked ok for me but you could also use split cane one of my favorites or thin leather cord to do a wrap !

[wcdurand]

http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=127194.0

[skeaterbait]

Thank you gents, us Show Me fellas needs pichers...

[Flem]

I learned something new here in this thread. Don't link to other archery websites. My apologies, did not know, no offense intended.

[Roy from Pa]

 

[fujimo]

so heres a trick from my saddle building days, where you have some pretty complex shapes.
like others have said- deer hide will work great and the oil tanned etc.
personally i like to glue down the wrap all except on the back- as bowjunkie said as well i think.
i like to use a thin veg tan piece of good back leather- belly and shouklders will stretch better- but is always kind of spongy and weaker.
 i soak it thoroughly in luke warm water- then start stretching an pulling and getting it too fit- it starts out a bit oversize, then on the back side i clamp the two pieces together with some spring clamps- as tight as i can get it- so there s a good inch of overlap on either side, let the leather dry thoroughly, before removing it i mark lightly where i want to trim the top and bottom, and mark a wee bit oversize for the back.
once trimmed up, you can put it back on the riser and mask off using the handle as a template- that way you get good glue coverage in all the right places- but no mess, when you are ready to glue.

i size only the leather with contact or barge- let it get really dry- now you need to work quick- i put a nice smooth and quite wet layer of wet glue on both the riser and the sized leather- cos its been sized- it wont dry super quick- now i can put the handle on, and move it around to get it just right. the glue will dry through the leather, (i only put glue on the belly and sides).
i keep working itand pressing it down as the glue tacks up on the inside.
when dry i lay the one side of leather down on the back- and use a straight edge and mark and trim off the extra, then i lay the trimmed side over the untrimmed side- mark where it needs to be cut- and trim that, then i stitch up- i personally prefer a nice skived  flat lace
 

[Roy from Pa]

Another hint Lonnie is clamp the bow in a padded vice while doing the grip.

All good tips above.

Don't be scared and take your time.

And Think about what you are doing.

Thinking is the thing that worries me most about you.

LOL