Bandsaw Drift Problem

[BMorv]

I have a couple month old 17" Grizzly bandsaw, and I set it up per the manual and the initial 3/8" blade worked out fine. 
I tried out a new 3/4" 3 tpi timber wolf blade and I can't get it to cut in a straight line to save my life. 
I tuned the BS per the manual and per this instructional , and it still cuts aggressively toward the fence.  It also wobbles a lot more than the other blade and makes more noise. 
Here's a list of the things I've tried:
- set the fence in line parallel to the blade.  It was off a bit. 
-adjusted the tension on the blade from almost max to light pressure
- blade tracking from way front, middle, to way back

Nothing seems to make a difference.  I'm pretty frustrated.  Any suggestions?
I haven't tried the draw a straight line on a board and cut free hand tip, but I don't think my fence can even adjust as far as this thing is out of square.  And that wouldn't solve the noise and vibration issue.  I'm thinking it's the blade.   
 
 

[skeaterbait]

Do you by chance have a second blade to try, maybe the blade is the issue.

I tried the Snodgrass method on my 14" and created myself more stress than anyone needs. I went back to the manual and did it how Grizzly recommends and it works much better.

[Forwardhandle]

I tune my band saw the same as you and have no isues maybe your tires have more camber to them & works with narrow blades better I had a issue with one blade & realized the dimension of the blade was longer then the rest of them and more blade tension solved it , just a dumb question is the back side of the blade smooth I had one that wasn't and had a minor burr that would catch the thrust bearing and throw things off  I took a file while it ran and smoothed it up and no more isues , the only other thing I can think of if you can't find a sweet spot between blade position and tension is upper lower wheel alignment , how wide are your tires on that saw ?

[BMorv]

I have the original blade, but it's teeth are worn badly.  I bet it still would cut much more accurately than this timber wolf. 
I can't see why I would have to adjust the fence this much. It's cutting at like a 20 degree angle.  It's ridiculous. 
Yeah I agree with the Snodgrass method.  He makes is seems so simple.  "Just tap the blade and it should move about 1/8".  Ohh ok.  Put a 3/4" blade on there and let me know how tapping your little finger works out for ya.  Sorry, I'm aggravated...

[BMorv]

Ritchie,
Not sure about the back of the blade.  I'll check. 
I adjust the guide blocks and thrust bearing to the proper gaps, rotate by hand and everything is good.  I turn it on, and it engages the thrust bearings and guides a little.  That's why I'm leaning toward something wrong with the blade.  And when I rotate by hand, the gap on the thrust bearing changes.  So you may be right about the back. 
The wheel is wide btw, 1.75" I believe.  It can accept a 1" wide blade.

[Wolftrail]

"when I rotate by hand, the gap on the thrust bearing changes. "  I was going to mention the bearings other than the wheels (tires) probably covers any would be issues.

[BMorv]

I ordered 2 new blades from Grizzly, so I'll know in a couple days if it's the blade. 
Just aggravating that this TW blade was $50 and it's giving me all this trouble.

[Flem]

I been using the Timberwoof blades. Put a 3/4" on my 14"BS, cuts good. I radiused the back like Ritchie suggested, make sure the wheels are coplaner and set the fence drift adjustment freehand. I just replaced the stock rubber tires with urethane. Never would have believed that would make such a dramatic difference, in tracking and vibration.
I also put a heavy duty Die spring and tension rod on it. Not an issue for your 17" , but being able to crank the tension way up made a big difference for my saw. One other thing that has helped my resawing, I replaced the blade guide blocks with UHMW plastic and press them hard against the blade.
If you want to try UHMW, let me know, I have a pile of small chunks.

[Roy from Pa]

Sometimes the blade is welded together crooked.

[BMorv]

It may be something as simple as that Roy. 
It seems that there's one spot on the blade that's out, and when that comes around it closes the gap on the thrust bearing.  And that would explain the noise and vibration.  I'll check some more when I get home.

Flem, the bandsaw is essentially new.  Maybe one hour of run time. So I would hope the wheels are set right and the tires are in good shape.  And the cheap 3/8" blade that came with it cut like a champ. 
I may take you up on that UHMW offer after I figure this out.  Thanks

Any idea how much I should tension a 3/4" blade on the 17" saw?  Mine just has a tension guide 1 through 8, it doesn't correspond to a blade width. 
 

[Bowjunkie]

I thought as Roy did. When you said the gap changes between the back of the blade and thrust bearing as you rotate the wheel by hand, it sounds like the blade wasn't aligned properly when it was welded. Since the original blade worked great, I'm guessing this new blade isn't right.

I have my saw set up pretty decent, but don't use a standard fence for bow work. For sawing lams and cores, I use a Kreg resaw fence, which is a short curved fence, so you can slightly angle the work piece to account for drift, while cutting a measured amount.

[Flem]

That would suck to get a skewed blade. Put a long straight edge against the back of it and see if its got a angle welded in.
I don't own any Grizzly tools, but I know they are good quality. Seem even the best tools still require some dialing in.
If your saw runs blocks, you would like the plastic. If nothing else, its nice not to have to set a gap.

[Shredd]

Not sure what is wrong with your blade, just try a new one, but I agree with Flem...  If you got rubber tires on there get rid of them and put on some good urethane ones...  Makes a big difference...

[Forwardhandle]

Just for the heck of it I read the reviews on TW blades on the big A and a lot of reviewers describe same isues as you ! I have had good luck with Lenox blades !

[Roy from Pa]

I was down to 1 blade and needed to cut something out one day, I could see the blade was welded crooked and it vibrated like heck when running.
Having nothing to lose, I cut the weld apart with a dremel tool, laid the two ends along a straight edge and hit it with the mig welder, then cleaned the weld up with the dremel tool.
After that it ran better than any blade I ever used.
All it takes is being off a few thousands to cause vibrations.
Ya got a mig welder, Mr. Ben?

[BMorv]

I don't have a welder, but here at work we have about 20.  But I'm going to wait till the new blades come in before I waste anymore time with this blade.

I looked at it last night.  I removed it and checked the back for square with a long straight edge like was suggested, and there's a couple spots that are maybe 1/16" out of line.  I put it back on the saw and rotated the wheels by hand and there's 2 times in a complete revolution of the blade that contact the thrust bearing.   

I'm pretty convinced it's the blade, but I'll see for sure when the others come in. 

[Roy from Pa]

Cool..

[Crooked Stic]

Your best bet on blades is find some one local that can make them for you. Imperial Fastener is one place and a lot of the nut&bolt places that carry tools make them.

[Roy from Pa]

I have a local place make mine @ 9 bucks a piece for 93.5".

I believe they use lennox steel.

[skeaterbait]

I have a local place make mine @ 9 bucks a piece for 93.5".

I believe they use lennox steel.

Are you going to become a distributor Roy? That price beats the dickens out of anything we have hear.