G10 risers

[Bvas]

Got a good deal on a bunch of 1/8” G10 scraps off the big auction site. I’m gonna try lamming them together along with some wood accents to build a riser. The pieces are only 12” long, so I’m gonna still end up with wood for the  fade portion of the riser. I’d like to lam them together somewhat following the radius of the back of the riser.
Anyone done anything similar? Got any pics?

[Flem]

Nice score Brad!  How rigid are they? Never done what your planning. Seems like a stack of them might be kind of stiff proposition to bend very much. Curious to see how you do with it.

[Bvas]

They are a lot stiffer than I thought they’d be. That’s why I say somewhat follow the contour   I think if I glue them in a couple of steps I can get 1/-4-1/2” of deflection without stressing it too much.

[kennym]

I think if you stay out of working portion of fades you will be good. Thinkin it would make a hinge going from g10 to wood near the bending area...

[BMorv]

I think if you stay out of working portion of fades you will be good. Thinkin it would make a hinge going from g10 to wood near the bending area...

Those were my thoughts too.  Did this on my current trade bow.
The only g10 pc I had was 11” so I made do. 

[Crooked Stic]

I really dont think the G 10 is doing a lot of good there.

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[Bvas]

I think if you stay out of working portion of fades you will be good. Thinkin it would make a hinge going from g10 to wood near the bending area...

That’s what I was thinking as well. I may also put a core tuff power lam in to be safe.

[Bvas]

I really dont think the G 10 is doing a lot of good there.

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I think that was put in to strengthen the two piece handle.

[Crooked Stic]

That will work for the two piece. might be better off center to the window side. Like someone already said a piece of glass on the very front of the riser fade to fade would be a plus.

[Bvas]

Spent some today cutting and grinding pieces for the riser. 17 pieces total. I think this will work. Managed to pull it all down with a single bar clamp.

I think I need to shorten some pieces and  stairstep them as I go up. Right now there are some pretty good gaps with just one clamp. Which means there is some pretty good pressure on the tips of the pieces.

[Buemaker]

Will be a lot of fun when you get all those pieces covered with epoxy.

[Flem]

Thats some stiff stuff! Going to look cool with all those layers.

[kennym]

Brad, will the very ends be glue starved if you shorten them up? Right now the part you cut out is taking the pressure?

[Bvas]

Bue, I was gonna ask if there were any volunteers to do the glue up for me
I will probably drill and pin one end to help control the slipping and sliding.

Kenny- Funny you say that. I was staring at it thinking the same thing. So I decided to cut them, but I left them all at least 1” outside the cut lines.

[kennym]

That should help with the ends pressing so hard.  This was all theory, never glued 1/8" glass in a circle...

[Crooked Stic]

I would figure out where the sight window would be. the part you will cut out later. Then drill and pin it there. The cut most of the excess off the ends. Then glue it  Clamp the sides straight while clamping the stack. Dont spare the clamps and be sure your surfaces are ruffed up good.

[Bvas]

I would figure out where the sight window would be. the part you will cut out later. Then drill and pin it there.

Good idea Mike

[monterey]

I think I would glue up incrementally.  Just a few pieces at a time.

How about glueing with the lams in place beneath for a precise fit?

[Bvas]

I think I would glue up incrementally.  Just a few pieces at a time.

How about glueing with the lams in place beneath for a precise fit?

I had thought about doing it in layers, but Im afraid spring back will be more of an issue doing it that way.  And if it does spring back much, I fear the G10 will just rip fibers from the wood accents.  That's part of the reason I will have G10 lammed to itself in several spots.

I am going to wait til I have the lams and place them in the form.  Gotta get my stack figured for this one and one for my wife so I can get an order in to Kenny.

[monterey]

Well, keep us updated on this.  I'm going to do something similar with my next ASL but it will be a reverse curve with reflex in the riser to match the continuous curvature of the bow.