Author Topic: De-oscillating the Ridgid sander (Read 2973 times)

knuklhed · « **on:** June 12, 2019, 05:21:52 PM »

I know somebody has done it, I can't find the thread, though. Anybody got any tips on doing it? What to watch for, and how long to make the spacer? Thanks for any help!

Mad Max · « **Reply #1 on:** June 12, 2019, 05:30:46 PM »

There was a youtube on it.
Are you trying to make a pattern sander?

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #2 on:** June 12, 2019, 05:35:43 PM »

I think goobersan did that.

knuklhed · « **Reply #3 on:** June 12, 2019, 06:44:30 PM »

Thanks to you both, I'll search YouTube, and search Goobersan's posts.

ztontonz · « **Reply #4 on:** June 12, 2019, 08:08:23 PM »

I don’t know about the rigid sander but on my triton I had to take out one of the two belts (the oscillating one)

goobersan · « **Reply #5 on:** June 12, 2019, 10:03:11 PM »

Send me your address Roger. I'll mail you a part to try

knuklhed · « **Reply #6 on:** June 13, 2019, 05:19:50 PM »

Josh, thanks for the kind offer. But, just the dimensions would be ok, I've got the ability to make the parts from a wide selection of engineering plastics. I will take pictures and post a build along for others who may also want to convert the sander. I'm going to make the 2" spindle into a pattern sander, as I have a bunch of 2" x 2" sleeves available.

goobersan · « **Reply #7 on:** June 13, 2019, 08:14:12 PM »

I used polypropylene pipe
1-1/4" id
1-5/8" od (could be larger)
1-3/16" long was too short, add 3/16" to 4/16" as I had nearly 1/4" oscillation. Roy has the final video on his utub page. Pics are on page 43 of "2019 what did ya do today"

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #8 on:** June 14, 2019, 05:46:36 AM »

Flem · « **Reply #9 on:** June 14, 2019, 10:06:06 AM »

No way to eliminate all the vertical movement?

goobersan · « **Reply #10 on:** June 14, 2019, 11:01:47 AM »

I believe there is. Just needs a longer piece of pipe (3/16"-1/4" more)

Mad Max · « **Reply #11 on:** June 14, 2019, 05:03:33 PM »

A 2" pattern sander will not work very well.
This has a 24" belt and wont clog as often.

knuklhed · « **Reply #12 on:** June 16, 2019, 05:04:29 PM »

Max, now you got me thinking in a different direction. (I may still take the oscillation out for general sanding, though.) Is that the belt attachment from the Ridgid? Having it do double duty is a great idea.

Mad Max · « **Reply #13 on:** June 18, 2019, 09:08:36 PM »

Mine works really good.

Mike L. · « **Reply #14 on:** June 22, 2019, 07:09:17 AM »

I found a video awhile back that showed how to use an oscillating spindle as a pattern sander. Basically, the spindle floated on top of a bearing that never left the surface of the template. I found it easier to make a pattern sander out of an old homemade drum sander motor and spindle mounted under a router table insert. There's a line of spindles at Stewmac.com that have bearings attached. It's designed to go into a drill press and is used for making guitars, but I switched the bearing from the top to the bottom, and it works pretty good that way.

knuklhed · « **Reply #15 on:** June 22, 2019, 05:24:13 PM »

I copied Max's idea, after having made a sleeve that stopped the oscillation, then removed it. I started out 1 1/2" high, then cut down to 1 1/4", which stopped it all, and left the belt just proud of the table. If anybody wants the sleeve, pm me, and I'll send it to you. The only thing I added to the max design was a bearing at the bottom of my plate, to make sure I was not side loading the drill press spindle too much. The tracking is taking a while to settle in, as I threw on a new 50 grit belt. My scrap of aluminum was not big or thick enough, so I had to add a rest out of Delrin to bring it to the right height (my patterns should slide well). Mike, I'll have to visit Stewmac, and bookmark it just in case. thanks

Mike L. · « **Reply #16 on:** June 22, 2019, 06:01:11 PM »

https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Sanding/Robo-Sander_Flush_Trim_Sander.html

Mad Max · « **Reply #17 on:** June 24, 2019, 08:23:19 AM »

Quote from: knuklhed on June 22, 2019, 05:24:13 PM

I copied Max's idea, after having made a sleeve that stopped the oscillation, then removed it. I started out 1 1/2" high, then cut down to 1 1/4", which stopped it all, and left the belt just proud of the table. If anybody wants the sleeve, pm me, and I'll send it to you. The only thing I added to the max design was a bearing at the bottom of my plate, to make sure I was not side loading the drill press spindle too much. The tracking is taking a while to settle in, as I threw on a new 50 grit belt. My scrap of aluminum was not big or thick enough, so I had to add a rest out of Delrin to bring it to the right height (my patterns should slide well). Mike, I'll have to visit Stewmac, and bookmark it just in case. thanks

Yea on mine, the second picture, that's a bearing and a rub collar in the bottom plate.
Mine works really good. and the drive shaft has 3 flat's so it can't spin in the chuck,

Mad Max · « **Reply #18 on:** June 24, 2019, 08:41:13 AM »

Mike L
I have a robo sander but it clogs up to fast, and I had some kind of metal sanding sleeve.

knuklhed · « **Reply #19 on:** June 25, 2019, 06:58:19 PM »

Yea on mine, the second picture, that's a bearing and a rub collar in the bottom plate.
Mine works really good. and the drive shaft has 3 flat's so it can't spin in the chuck,

Looks like great minds think alike, I put flats on too. I hadn't noticed the bearing until you mentioned it, and enlarged the picture to take a look. Thanks again for the inspiration, I'm really happy with the way it turned out. I had trouble tracking a new belt, but once it settled, I got a riser that had been waiting done.

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Author Topic: De-oscillating the Ridgid sander (Read 2973 times)

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