Trying new things... NOW with NEW and IMPROVED questions!

[OkKeith]

I had to remove a Mulberry tree from near the front door. The wife was VERY unhappy about tracking purple spots in onto the carpet and the flies and ants were horrific!

I have a couple logs about six inches across but not long enough for a bow. My thought is to try a Z-splice... something I have never done. I loaned my Torges book out and haven't got it back yet so need some help with the process. The buddy who has my book also has the band-saw we share (and is 4 hours away) so I will probably be using a hand saw.

I have Smooth-on glue, is this what I want to use? Is there a preferred pattern to the splice?

I plan to split the log and mate the billets same end-to-same end. Do I need to work them down to a more "bow-like" state (i.e. remove the sapwood) and then do the splice?

I was always one of those kids in grade school that had to sit at the desk with tall sideboards so... photos along with your words is appreciated.

Thank you very much for all the help!

OkKeith <I added some additional questions below in another post>

[Pat B]

I'd split the logs in half and seal the ends. If you have time remove the bark and sapwood and seal the back. It's a lot easier while green. After a week or so split those halves in half and give them a few months to dry. Once relatively dry you can reduce each billet to about 3/4" thick keeping the handle area thicker. Use the butt end of the log for the handle and splice.
 Someone who is more experienced with splicing billets will have to explain that to you but you have plenty of time. You can use a "Z" or "W" splice and any good wood glue will work for the splice. Smooth on should work just fine.

[OkKeith]

Thanks Pat!

I think I actually meant a W-splice (sometimes you should listen to what I mean, not necessarily what I say ). Seems like Mr. Torges recommended working the billet as much as possible while it was green.

These logs have been cut for a few months. I didn't think to try making a bow out of them until recently. Its been over 100 degrees here every day for more than a week so they may be "air dried" already. I will try and get them split out and sealed up this week.

Thanks again for the help!

OkKeith

[Pat B]

Be sure the staves don't have bugs.
Dean was steaming green wood which drives the moisture out of the wood then clamped it in a reflex form. The problem with taking a stave down too quickly is it will twist and draw into uneven reflex as it dries. If you take a stave down clamp it to a form(2x4) to dry so it doesn't twist. You can add reflex later with heat.
Remember the wood is soft so pad your clamps.

[OkKeith]

I guess if I am going to try something new I might as well go all in.

In thinking about splicing the two half billets together and the myriad of ways I could screw it up, I got to thinking about making a take down bow with a sleeve. I couldn't come up with how to do it though. I have searched TradGang and found several posts about making take downs but they all started with a whole bow and cut them in half to install the take down sleeves.

Its a "Chicken and Egg" thing in my mind... which comes first, the whole bow or the take down bow? Would it be best to splice the billets, make the bow and then cut it in half?

I also searched for posts or tutorials on making my own take down sleeves. Any advise on that?

I worked on the logs some today and they are still seriously green. They will definitely need to dry some before I can do anything with them so this may be a winter or spring project.

OkKeith

[flyonline]

Ha, I was just wondering the same thing after reading your first post but didn't want to hijack your thread - I have a stack of Osage that would need splicing to make a bow 

My thoughts (and I've never done any joining, so take what you will...) would be to just to a simple V or / splice to get the billets together then make the sleeve and go from there.

Big Jim has a series of videos on making a take down sleeve starting here

 

Steve

[OkKeith]

Hey Steve-

I found a link to those videos but couldn't get them to work. Your link does... thanks!

I like the idea of the fiberglass connection. It seems to lend itself better to the type of handle I prefer. I have seen a few builds that just used automotive glass and resin from the Auto Parts store. I can get that pretty cheaply and close by.

I may have a cart/horse issue in that my billets are not even ready to shape yet but like you, I'm not sure how to cut the connection. It seems like the joint might be weak if I was to cut and splice and then cut it apart again for the take down connection.

Then again, putting fiberglass tape and resin on an all wood bow seems weird. I saw a link to a build along where someone used rawhide to make the sleeve.

Thanks again for the help. Good luck with your bows!

OkKeith

[flyonline]

I guess I was thinking along the lines of cutting through the bow along the join to keep the wood on each billet/half intact when cutting the bow in half before making the sleeve. Whether it's possible to do so accurately...