I’m struggling with my arrow tuning...false stiff?

[Kopper1013]

Hey guys so I’m trying to tune up a new set of gold tip warrior 600’s

My setup is a 49# self build fiberglass bow, I draw 26.5” and it’s cut 1/8” shy of center.

My previous arrows for this bow where gold tip blems 600 with 100gr brass inserts and 200gr points 31” long footed with 2” 2117 aluminum shafts

I had these warriors shooting well with the same setup but then decided to foot these arrows with 2” 2117 aluminum shafts. They showed a little stiff so I upped my point weight to 300gr and they’re still show stiff...so for quick math that’s 400gr up front of a 600spine arrow and looks like it needs more can this be or am I missing something???

[McDave]

Is this for real?

[Kopper1013]

I’m not sure how to take that, yup completely for real.

I take it by that comment, your having trouble believing something here?

I can probably post is picture of my 60 arrow roughly 6” (minus a couple bad release flyers) group at 20 yards, I mark all my bare shaft holes with a pen then see where the majority of the pen marks are (high,low,left,right) in reference to my fletched arrows to then make adjustments accordingly. The majority of my bare shafts hit right of my fletched indicating weak (I’m a left hander)...

[McDave]

Sorry, didn't mean to doubt you. Just way outside my experience. Probably should have kept my mouth shut.

[Kopper1013]

  listen if everyone kept their mouth shut know one would learn anything, I myself am having a tuff time understanding my results which is why I came here. These are tuning out different than anything I’ve done in the past (with same tuning procedure) at this point I’ll listen to wild guesses and experiments season is approaching and in a little stuck...

Tonight I plan on pushing out to 30yards with 4 arrows one bare shaft with 200grn points one with 300grn points same with fletched and see what the longer distance shows for tune...

[McDave]

The majority of my bare shafts hit right of my fletched indicating weak (I’m a left hander)...

I assume you meant to say “indicating stiff” rather than weak, since stiff is what seems to be your problem?

As you imply, your setup should result in an extremely weak bare shaft, but since it doesn't, I would suspect some form problem or something to do with the homemade bow.  From my experience, a .600 grain shaft cut to 31” would have to have something like 100 grains up front to be tuned to your setup, which would be a dangerously light arrow for your bow.

[the rifleman]

The footing effectively reduced the length of your shaft--- that is the length of the shaft between the footing and the nock.  This would dynamically stiffen the arrow in proportion w how much the length that can flex is reduced.  Try removing the fotting to see if the arrow acts a bit weaker.  I keep my footings around 3/4" for this reason.  I always bareshaft w footings and wraps installed.

[Bwilliams7]

I have the same opinion as the rifleman. A 2" footing on a 31" arrow makes it 29". Which will make it more stiff. There is a formula to figure out how much, but I don't remember the numbers

[trad_bowhunter1965]

get some foot spray and spray you bare shaft about 6 or 7 inches and shoot them if the powder is marked up and their residue on your bow them you have a weak arrow.

[jackdaw]

A 600 spine for ME ...@ 27" of draw in a 49# bow would register super weak even with 125 grs up front.?? I dont know how yours are showing stiff with 300 grs up front...especially with that length arrow.....perplexed.????

[Eric S]

I know this is a old thread but wanted to share my experience which is worth what you're paying for it. When you get into the efoc or ufoc (or whatever acronyms are being used) set ups, I've got false reads. Try lowering your point weight and or increasing the length of your footing. Like you said "wild guess".
I would be curious to the results if you try it.