bare shaft tuning

[ductape]

I am still a little fresh at the traditial bows and and only heard of bear shaft tuning about six months ago. I aquired a 3 rivers tip kit and tuned them as follows. After stripping 2 of eight of my arrows I shot them using the different sizes starting from smallest to largest. I noticed that i increased weight the arrows tended to kick to the right after they left the bow. the larger ones kicked the most so I lowered untill I got the straightest flight. On my beman classics 500, 125grn shot straight. Today I shot them along with my fleched ones and got good results, but I must confess the 100grn shot the best. My bare shafted arrows grouped only about 2 to 3 inches higher @ 15 yards. Does this sound right or am I missing something? any input would be appritiated.

[Diamond Paul]

Need more info; what bow, what weight at your draw length, ff or dacron string.  How long are the arrows?  When you say you increased weight, the arrows kicked right; do you mean when you went up in shaft stiffness or point weight?  Sounds like the stiffer sizes are too stiff, but this can be corrected with enough point weight.  Go to O.L. Adcock's site and look at his tuning section; it tells you everything you need to know about bare shaft tuning.  Good luck, Paul.

[ductape]

Thanks Paul. I'm shooting a Thunderstick II 60# @ 28 and I draw 29" using a fast flight string 18 Strand. When I say they kick to the left the Knock of the arrow goes left, and at 15 and twenty yards the arrow enters at a left to right angle. After reading another post I think I may not be doing this right. Sad thing is my fleched arrow go where I want them to but past twenty I know I can do better, my pattern spreds. Thanks for the help.

[vermonster13]

500s are a little weak for that length draw and poundage.

[Diamond Paul]

Well, if you shoot that poundage at that draw length, you can hang up the 500 spined arrows!  You need stiffer arrows, probably something in the 400 or 300 spine range; not real sure how Beman rates them, I never shoot that brand.  Nock left flight is indicative of weak spine.  If you have the right spine, basically your fletched and unfletched arrows should group together in the general area of the spot you shoot at, depending on how good you shoot to begin with.  The bare shafts normally should be slightly to the right and maybe slightly low in the group, compared to the fletched arrows (they'll look slightly nock high and right of the fletched arrows).  This indicates just weak enough and the proper nock height to make them shoot like darts when you add fletching.  That's the best I can explain it, and I'm sure it's not that great!  Like I said, Adcock's site has the bible of bare shaft tuning.  Good luck, Paul.

[ductape]

Tat would explain why 100 gr points were the straightest. I've shot 400 spine arrows and neeed more weight. Thanks Guys. I'm sure i will have more questions in the future. I LOVE THIS STUFF!!!

[Shawn Leonard]

DT, cut the 400s to 30"s and shoot 225 grains up front on them and tell me what ya think. I bet they fly darn good both bareshaft and fletched. Shawn

[snag]

The 400s would be my choice too. They are equivalent to about 80# spine weight at 10.4gr per inch. Beman says they are good for bows from 57#-61#. If you go to there website they have a shaft selection chart that can be helpful.

[R H Clark]

Everyone is correct that 500's are borderline at best for your draw and poundage.

If the arrows are heavy enough in gpp for your bow,you can tweak things a little to see if you can get better flight with them.

Here are a few things you can try to make a weak shaft fly better.

1.Lower the brace height of the bow.You still neeed to stay within reasonable limits reccomended by the bowyer.

2.Shorten the shaft.When you cut carbons,they respond to changes fast so try 1/4 inch at a time.

3.Use a lighter tip.Personally I never go under a 125 grn for matching broadhead reasons.You need to also take into consideration the weight of the arrow in grains per pound of bow draw weight.Most bowyers warranty their bows at 8-9 gpp but there are exceptions.

4. Add weight to the nock end of the arrow.Goldtip sells a nock adapter that allows you to add weight.Fletching wraps will also add a little weight.

5.Build out the sideplate of the bow.

All these are fine tuning tips for weak shafts and will help with borderline shafts.They are not intended to make a very weak shaft work.