Strike plate depth/plunger depth

[snowplow]

I'm trying out a new set of arrows. I need to go stiffer, and I'm thinking of spacing the strike plate out versus cutting them down at this point. Not sure if they'll be enough but I am considering this. I haven't read much about spacing the strike plate. I mean I know what it'll do but I just haven't heard much discussion on it. Are there any downsides to this? Is there any reason I should opt for cutting the arrow instead?

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[bigbadjon]

If you use your arrow to aim it will make you hit left of the target with a perfect tune. Other than that it will only make your arrow fly perfect.

[snowplow]

Thanks Jon. If I'm understanding you correctly, if you have a perfect tune then adjust it out you'll hit left and it wouldn't necessarily be a perfect tune anymore. But if you do it as part of the tuning process you should still hit where you want correct? Like for instance if you're a little weak and hitting right of where you should and you add thickness to the strike plate to bring it back until you're perfect right?

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[BAK]

Trying to understand what your saying.  If your bare shaft is showing stiff, and hitting left, building your side plate out will only worsen the issue.  If the arrow is showing weak, and hitting right, then yes, building out the side plate will work just fine.

All my arrows are cut to the exact same length, I never ever tune with arrow length.  I want the same site picture regardless of what shaft I use.  Tuning is done with tip weight, and side plate, and brace height.

[snowplow]

Yep that's what I'm saying thank you

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[reddogge]

Snowplow, what I do in setting up a bow is first adjust the strike plate so you have the right side of the arrow touching the left side of the string when viewed dead-on from the string side for a right hand shooter. Only then do I start tuning the arrow by playing with point weight, length, etc. I have found this method very reliable for me and I've used it on lots of bows, one-piece classics to modern ILFs, hunting bows to target bows. I have never gone too much beyond that setting either. I realize there are many ways to skin the cat but this is a fool proof method for me.

[snowplow]

Hey thanks for the info. So if I'm hearing you correctly, the right side of the insert is in line with the string? Do you set it up this way regardless of barrel length? Or is that a variable as well?

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[McDave]

You can see that Reddog's bow in the illustration is cut well past center, so it is possible to adjust the strike plate/plunger so that the inside of the tip of the arrow touches the centerline of the bow, which is ideal. Many bows are not cut to centershot, and many others are not cut much past centershot, so they can't be adjusted like Reddog's example. This is an example of a bow that I thought was cut past center, but it really isn't, so after seeing this, I removed a pad I had put on the strikeplate, which still didn't bring it back to Reddog’s example.

[reddogge]

Your photo piqued my interest McDave so I had to look at my Wes Wallace. Apparently, it is cut past center because with a thin strike plate the arrow still lines up with the right side of the arrow touching the left side of the string. On paper it is too stiff at .400 spine out of a 47# bow but it shoots beautifully. I suspect you have to use a weaker spined arrow out of your bow.

[snowplow]

Thanks guys. Wow that last bow is beautiful!

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[bigbadjon]

If the bow is in tune the arrow will correct and fly directly in line from the center of the bow. This is why making the strike plate thicker for tuning makes the archer, not the bow, shoot left. If you are aiming with the tip of the arrow you have moved your sight left of center.

[snowplow]

Which is a downside correct? So it's preferable to not go further than you say correct?

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[bigbadjon]

It's not a downside as long as you know to compensate. I would rather the arrow be tuned and adjust my aim than the opposite.

[snowplow]

Okay that makes sense I'm on board with that. I think that's all I've really experienced anyway. From shooting a self bow with basically no shelf to now shooting a recurve that isn't cut to center. on top of that I shoot or at least did shoot AD trad lite arrows which are pretty big in diameter so I was pointing pretty far left. I have always just canted until it didn't point left but pointed straight at the Target. And got it so hit there.

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[stevem]

If using a lighter point is an option, that should make the shaft act stiffer.

[BAK]

Reddogge, your picture shows the arrow on the "right" side of the center-line.  How does that work?  It's backwards.

[McDave]

Reddogge, your picture shows the arrow on the "right" side of the center-line.  How does that work?  It's backwards.

The arrow shaft is out of focus once it gets past the shelf, but it still looks like it is on the left side of the centerline to me.

[Bisch]

Reddogge, your picture shows the arrow on the "right" side of the center-line.  How does that work?  It's backwards.

I agree!!! The picture of the actual bow appears to be opposite of the drawing he posted above!!!!!

Bisch

[BAK]

Maybe I'm looking at the strike plate.

[Wheels2]

I set centershot right down the middle and tune arrow.  My bows have good torsional stability so no need to set the arrow to left of string.
Currently working with new Border Covert Hunter Hex 9h limbs.  XX75 2216 is a tad weak and XX75 2219 is too stiff.  125 tips.  Unfortunately, the heaviest BH I have are 145 grain Razorheads.
I plan on trying to brig plate in to just under center for the XX75 2216s.