Game with a 41# bow

[Wilderlife]

Hi all,

I've sourced a lighter bow for practice and fun at the range - A Harvey Archery Crowned Eagle that pulls 41# @ 28. I personally pull about 27.

I'm considering arrow setups, and while this bow will mainly be for practice and fun, I may hunt a bit with it.

I have a few ways I can get myself into an arrow that is somewhere around 380gns and up, so I thought I'd put some estimations up here.

Gold Tip Hunters cut to about 28 inches will be just over 200gns.
The inserts that come with those arrows are 12gns and then I could use a 200gn broadhead - Over 410gn arrow.
I could use a 50gn or 100gn GT insert as well and then go a 130gn broadhead - 380gn to 430gn arrow.

All of this is subject to tuning of course, but my real question is how many of you would hunt with this setup?

I live in Australia and predominantly chase small-medium game. I'd avoid massive wild boars, but feral goats, foxes, rabbits, etc, would be OK I'd think? Our fallow deer over here are similar in size to your whitetails and I'm not sure of a shot on a big buck?

Thanks for input and insight.

[flyonline]

I'm currently in the same boat, but I'm aiming for a minimum of 500gr. Having seen what 660gr out of 47# does, I'm coming to think that heavier (within reason) is better at lighter draw weights. I'm trying a .500 VPA sport and will be shooting for a 125gr head, 100gr insert and 50gr brass collar to get enough weight plus strength up front. I had a few shots on goats just through the rib cage with similar weights you're talking @ 50lb that didn't get through both sides.

If you're just targeting foxes and/or rabbits I'd imagine you'll be fine, but even goats have a decent leg bone to get through. Plus one day you'll come across a big boar/buck/billy and wish you didn't feel a little under-gunned  As a plus, heavier arrows are quieter.

[Wilderlife]

Cheers, mate.

Is there an easier way to get brass collars besides making them?

[flyonline]

http://www.gidgeesticks.com.au/ sell or used to sell their own S/S collars, plus the Ethics Archery versions but they appear to have no stock at the moment.

https://www.bowhuntersdomain.com.au/product/12-x-halfserts-and-sleeves-to-suit-250-300spine-bhd-eliminators also, but you'd have to check sizing.

Depending on how much you want to spend: https://www.ironwilloutfitters.com/gear/footers https://valkyriearchery.com/shop/viking-centerpin-stainless-sleeves/ https://valkyriearchery.com/shop/viking-centerpin-stainless-sleeves/.

I just cut a sleeve of hobby brass tubing with a roller pipe cutter, this folds the end over just slightly to help prevent it pushing down on impact and glue on with epoxy. Aluminium arrow shafts are another option.

Kinda sucks when you're away from anywhere that might carry that kind of stuff so you can't try it first hand e.g. the GT Trads are a tiny bit wider than a standard shaft from the wood finish and take a 11/32" tube.

[acedoc]

See this link
http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=101178.0
Also two blade razer sharp bh and well tuned arrows will help you. Imo stay away from broad two blades.
Cats, dingoes and foxes shouldn't be an issue neither will be goats

[blacktailbob]

A hunter on another site showed photos of his moose kill with a 39# bow. Super sharp coc heads and shot placement are key along with very tuned arrows.
My bow has limbs of 44@30 and 41@30. No worries here.

[ozy clint]

There is quite a difference between 44#@30" and 38#@27".
If you hunt with it spend some time on developing an effective arrow. Somewhere between 450-550gr with 2 blade head.

[blacktailbob]

Duh Clint, didn't I state where another archer shot a MOOSE with a 39 pound bow? That's only ONE pound difference.

Plus the title states "Game with a 41# bow".

[Wilderlife]

I just bought some 200gn field points so I'll be interested to see how they fly in a week or so when I get them. I may even try them with my heavier setup, too.

My arrows for both my 54# and 41# bow would be around 500gns or so if I switched. The main thing is getting them to tune I guess.

My arrows for my 54# bow are GT Hunter - 27.5 inches, 100gn brass insert in the front, 3x4 inch AAE vanes, and a 130gn broadhead. I'm interested to see how much an extra 70gns may weaken those arrows.

It would be also interesting to compare the difference in trajectory and performance between the two bows, shooting essentially the same arrows.

[ozy clint]

Blacktailbob-  38#@ the stated 27" draw will be close to what a 41#@28" bow will be. Which like I said is quite different to your heaviest setup you mentioned which is 6# more draw weight at 3" more draw length.
I stated to make a good arrow combo which is what the 39# moose hunter would have done and what you yourself suggested. So what's the problem?
 


Wilderlife- get it tuned and it'll be fine.   

[acedoc]

I just bought some 200gn field points so I'll be interested to see how they fly in a week or so when I get them. I may even try them with my heavier setup, too.

My arrows for both my 54# and 41# bow would be around 500gns or so if I switched. The main thing is getting them to tune I guess.

My arrows for my 54# bow are GT Hunter - 27.5 inches, 100gn brass insert in the front, 3x4 inch AAE vanes, and a 130gn broadhead. I'm interested to see how much an extra 70gns may weaken those arrows.

It would be also interesting to compare the difference in trajectory and performance between the two bows, shooting essentially the same arrows.

At your dl 70 grains may not make a significant difference in arrow tune but may change point on. Regardless have fun and report back.

[hybridbow hunter]

In those topics the real question is not if you CAN kill something with 38#/380 gr@27 » but if you SHOULD do it.
Is it so difficult for you to build up enough muscle strength to shoot properly 45# at your 27 » draw length ?
Unless you have an injury or body impairment any adult with little training can do it.
I always wonder why people like to go for the « minimum » when in the will to kill an animal but not when they go in an airplane or undergo a heart surgery. What kind of minimum are you willing to accept for you or your family for an airplane pilot or a surgeon?

[Wilderlife]

I just asked the question, mate. Not trying to get away with being too light for anything. My main hunting bow is 54# @ 28, which I mentioned earlier. I'm trying to learn more about this stuff, which is why I asked.

I've killed lots of deer, pigs, goats, rabbits, and foxes, with a .22lr, as well as a .222, but I've also shot heaps with a .308, .300WM, and a 9.3x62.  I wouldn't recommend a .22lr or .222 to hunt medium game, but I have a lot of experience and have taken the opportunity when it arises.

Hunting over here is interesting. On one of my favourite properties, I hunt all of the game I listed above at the same spot, with no bag limits, seasons, or tags needed. I could be walking around a rabbit warren with a light bow, or be walking around stumping, and a chance may come up. If I'm not confident in my ability (or the bow) I wouldn't take a shot, regardless of poundage, etc.

Similar to rifles as well - a deer hit well with a .222 is going to be a better kill than a deer hit in the leg with a .375H+H. For most people, shooting a lighter rifle accurately is easier than a big banger.

I'm not trying to justify why I may hunt with the lighter bow. Just pointing out that I understand the argument, but I'm not trying to go out of my way to be irresponsible. My big bow is my hunting bow first and foremost, but this new one is a blast to practice with.

[GCook]

You have to understand many of us have seen the results of people shooting too low of a poundage bow. 
When you've spent time on a hunt tracking down a wounded deer your buddy's daughter shot with her 28lb bow because his mentality was with the right shot it will be adequate you will appreciate that sometimes having a little extra in the tank isn't a bad idea.
That said that bow puts you drawing around 38lbs.  Adequate for small and medium sized game but on a fallow, especially a buck, I'd limit the shot distance. I know guys brag on forums about their point being 50 yards and shooting dots at 80 yards but I seriously doubt the responsible ones are taking game shots at those ranges. 
Trouble with guys who shoot deer or pigs with .22s is they never tell you about the ones who ran off and the assumed a miss or knew it was a non lethal hit but don't brag about it on a forum.
I've killed at least 20 pigs with a .22lr.  But I also have a request for piglets from time to time.  A 15lb pig is much different than a 100lb pig.  Having been in pig rich environments I've even tried different angle head shots when we have them in traps.  A .22 doesn't always do the job.  In fact if the pig is moving it is kind of a crap shoot.  I shoot them all the time with a .223 Rem round that is designed for hunting but still my favorite with that smaller round involves the ear hole.
Rabbit, fox and even Texas deer would be fine with modest ranges and respectable shot placement with your bow.   
But after you've spent a few days on a hunt chasing animals around with an arrow hanging out of it with no penetration or seen one on your game cam the same way, all because of a not quite perfect shot from a bow that "should be adequate", you'll understand the frustration some feel when they see these threads.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[acedoc]

Well said !

[Wilderlife]

Of course. I don't disagree with any of the points being made. I've done the same with pigs in traps and a .22lr.

Just asking for the sake of interest. If I don't ask, I don't know.

At the same time, the conflicting information in this thread is interesting as well. 

[acedoc]

I don't think the info is conflicting- all about shot placement and the "if" element. Outdoors and even target shooting are far from certain.
Lethal trauma needs a small amount of precise force. It is a debate over very precise and focused trauma vs having more force to deal with less than precise situations.
Everyone has their own take. Some will take more power to cope with the uncertainty while others will go for precision with less power. Depends on the person and his thought / physical prowess.

[Yooper-traveler]

I hunt with bows in that range all the time.  This year I’ve taken ablack bear and deer at 41#.  Every year I’m blessed to be able to hunt multiple animals in several states.  I’ve taken elk, hogs and stag with bows under 50 pounds.  To me it’s about shot placement.

People have been taking game with bows in that weight forever....  Do a search here and there’s a nice thread.  it’s up to you if you feel confident in your set up. 

[Doug Treat]

I have taken bear, mule deer, and elk with a 40# recurve but I use heavier arrows. I like 650 grains. I have tried lighter arrows with less than satisfactory results. In regard to penetration on game, in my experience, it’s not how heavy (draw weight) your bow is but how heavy your arrow is.

[pavan]

Last year on an off day, I went pheasant hunting instead of deer hunting. I had a stash of 40-45 ancient cedars with blunts and some with old broad-heads.  I took my equally ancient 42@26 asl.  i saw no pheasants in the switch grass plot, but a small six point buck stood up, dropped the blunt grabbed the old worn but sharp Hunter's Head arrow and put it through the little buck.  Of course you can hunt fallow deer with a 41@28 Harvey Crown Eagle, good bow.  I really need to say something about fallow deer.A friend of mine that has no time to hunt some falls goes to Texas in December. He refuses to sit by a feeder, but where he goes is very large and they let him roam around.  He shot a couple of fallow deer with a 40 something Big River longbow that i gave him shooting Acme cedar arrows with 145 Ribtec heads that flew good out of that bow. He left most of one here frozen and packaged.  For those that think Iowa whitetails are good eating, you have not had fallow deer.  Unbelievable, I get the drools just thinking about it.
 I have field dressed hauled out and butchered a good number of deer shot with 38@26 bows shot with Zwicky Eskimos riding on cedar arrows, most of those deer had complete penetration if not pass throughs.  The arrow that pushes a reasonably small two blade head the straightest is the one to use.  One year my wife shot an arrow clean through a good size doe, a compound hunter saw her following the blood trail, it was about 160 yards.  He dressed the deer, went back to my van and got my deer cart and hauled the deer out for her. I saw them up on the hill and ended my hunt for the morning.  A rich guy that has a crew come out and fill up the area with tree stands, who hunts with 800 plus grain arrows and shoots them out of a heavy custom takedown recurve, got irritated that they were on "HIS" end of the public land, got into with the compound shooter, when he found that it was my wife's deer and saw the two holes he accused the compound shooter of shooting her deer. Saying to my wife,"if I don't get pass throughs you for sure don't get pass throughs."  Later when I saw him shoot and how bad his arrows flew, I completely understood why he did not ever get any pass throughs.
   Pick a nice lean two blade broadhead, put it on the straightest flying arrow, and go out with confidence and shoot a fallow deer for yourself.  Treat that meat with great care, it is dining at its finest.