Author Topic: Tips & Tricks TD Riser ? (Read 3550 times)

Forwardhandle · « **on:** October 30, 2019, 05:09:37 PM »

There has been a lot of interest in these TD risers lately including me ,I never made one so any tips are welcome do you guys use any specialized shop jigs ? Or when cutting the pad angles do you use just a plain old mitre guide/table saw or power mitre saw ? Any help is appreciated , so far I'm just planing on squaring up my riser block 1 1/2" x 3" and cutting the pad angles , drill the pilot holes & alignment holes ?

kennym · « **Reply #1 on:** October 30, 2019, 08:33:41 PM »

Check your pads for square with side of riser block. If you don'=t have a good drill jig, you can put the insert in the center of riser best you can in the right place from end, drill the limb for the 5/16 bolt, bolt them on and string from tip to tip and adjust for alignment, then drill thru limb and into riser, then put an overlay on back of limb to cover the pin hole. Many ways to skin a cat.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #2 on:** October 30, 2019, 08:53:35 PM »

Yup..
That's zactly how I do it, Kenny.

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #3 on:** October 30, 2019, 09:56:25 PM »

Have your block sides parallel with each other. Then when you cut your pad angles they will be square. If you have access to a self centering drill jig us it. I used one for years not perfect but will work.

Mad Max · « **Reply #4 on:** October 30, 2019, 09:59:47 PM »

I did mine like Kenny said because I only made about 6

oldfartfarmer · « **Reply #5 on:** October 31, 2019, 04:16:22 AM »

Quote from: kennym on October 30, 2019, 08:33:41 PM

Check your pads for square with side of riser block. If you don'=t have a good drill jig, you can put the insert in the center of riser best you can in the right place from end, drill the limb for the 5/16 bolt, bolt them on and string from tip to tip and adjust for alignment, then drill thru limb and into riser, then put an overlay on back of limb to cover the pin hole. Many ways to skin a cat.

Thank you as this is the way ill be doing it

I did not pre drill

and still have an original flat 90 deg surface to reference from on the opposite side of the arrow rest

cheers all
John

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #6 on:** October 31, 2019, 05:48:36 AM »

Thanks all I'm thinking of getting this jig I think it's the one Mike recommended I can't find that thread https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000022419/?coliid=I2N3SAGSP632IV&colid=1PD149WAC9NN7&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
It reviews well , I'm making my first out of solid Maple as a test to work my bugs out ! I suppose it would make more sense to keep it as a block with pads cut & hardware on as to make it easer for precision drilling !

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #7 on:** October 31, 2019, 07:13:28 AM »

You can use the 7/16s hole for the limb bolt insert. I would still mount the limb and line it up before drilling the pin hole.That way you have a limb for each end. because 99 times out of a 100 if you do each hole by its self they aint gonna line up right.

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #8 on:** October 31, 2019, 07:19:15 AM »

Mike is that the right jig you recommended ?

Mad Max · « **Reply #9 on:** October 31, 2019, 07:21:22 AM »

27/64 drill

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #10 on:** October 31, 2019, 07:35:48 AM »

Actually Kenny I think had a guy send him a jig that has the holes already spaced right. And his video is on here somewhere will be a lot less room for error. Sandbox acres is what he went by.
Max I have drilled several 100 bows with 7/16 for the inserts with no problems.

Mad Max · « **Reply #11 on:** October 31, 2019, 07:42:55 AM »

Yep
more room for smooth-on

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #12 on:** October 31, 2019, 08:55:21 AM »

Kenny said that jig is still so,so ,Im going to make one out of plexy or wood for marking , I will order that centering jig later !

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #13 on:** October 31, 2019, 09:35:49 AM »

He is right. The best way is a two pin drilling jig that is bolted to a flat surface.

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #14 on:** October 31, 2019, 09:43:16 AM »

Now that's a Jig !

Shredd · « **Reply #15 on:** October 31, 2019, 10:17:32 AM »

I have a jig similar to Stic's but mine is 12" long... I clamp it to a flat piece of granite... Trick is to make a second wooden jig to go over the metal one... It will guide you drill bits straighter... You will get truer hole placement and there will be less wear on the metal jig... You need multiple holes... 27/64", 5/16" and/or 11/32"... You also might want 1/2" to guide your tap in straight... Just because you have a 90* hole does not mean your tap will follow it...

Shredd · « **Reply #16 on:** October 31, 2019, 10:25:06 AM »

I think you may have issues with that centering jig unless you are gonna do one-off bows and thru drill your limbs for pins... Alignment has to be within a couple of thou or exact...

Forwardhandle · « **Reply #17 on:** October 31, 2019, 11:13:03 AM »

Well it's ether that or measure & drill and then make templets of each pad for follow up limbs , that's why I'm trying to see what every body's doing !

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #18 on:** October 31, 2019, 11:27:17 AM »

Kenny has the best plan..

Check your pads for square with side of riser block. If you don't have a good drill jig, you can put the insert in the center of riser best you can in the right place from end, drill the limb for the 5/16 bolt, bolt them on and string from tip to tip and adjust for alignment, then drill thru limb and into riser, then put an overlay on back of limb to cover the pin hole. Many ways to skin a cat.

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #19 on:** October 31, 2019, 01:06:34 PM »

Shredd I have drill bushings for the big hole 7/16s 3/8s and 5/16s. And if you drill the 1/4s where the dowell sticks out of the riser about 3/16s everything is fine.
And if ya got no jig do what Kenny said.

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Author Topic: Tips & Tricks TD Riser ? (Read 3550 times)

Shredd

Shredd

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