Author Topic: Limb Performance (Read 3153 times)

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #20 on:** November 06, 2019, 10:32:11 AM »

Do an FDC on it and see what you are gaining per in.

BO-R · « **Reply #21 on:** November 06, 2019, 02:30:49 PM »

What helped me graduate from a Bingham design years ago, was to change pad angle to 17 deg. use less stack and a longer leaner wedge for 62in on a 17 inch riser.(Slightly deflexed) My wedge would be 9.25 inch with a 16.5in working limb.
brace went to 7 3/4 to 8in.
My finished limb width is 1.55"
On FDC, I am at 2# per inch. Max
VJ.

buckeyebowhunter · « **Reply #22 on:** November 06, 2019, 04:17:02 PM »

Thanks guys. These numbers are as accurate as I could get using a marked arrow and hand scale. Full draw pics after the old lady gets here.

buckeyebowhunter · « **Reply #23 on:** November 06, 2019, 04:17:48 PM »

Sorry the last number is 50.16. @28

buckeyebowhunter · « **Reply #24 on:** November 06, 2019, 04:19:28 PM »

Shredd the fade tip to fade tip with the bow strung is 24"

Shredd · « **Reply #25 on:** November 06, 2019, 04:51:58 PM »

That sounds like a lot... I got my new semi-recurve with a 62" string and my fades are at 19" but I have sorta of a power lam in there too...... For starts I would either lean them fades way down or pull them back aways... We'll see how she is bending at full draw... (28") Change one thing at a time and see how things go... I wish a couple of recurve builders would chime in...

I will do the DFC for you and post it...

jess stuart · « **Reply #26 on:** November 06, 2019, 05:07:44 PM »

Did you shorten the limbs too or only the riser. I ask because if you shortened the limbs, by taking some off the tips it would likely pull different and stack at less draw length.

Shredd · « **Reply #27 on:** November 06, 2019, 05:10:31 PM »

Shredd · « **Reply #28 on:** November 06, 2019, 05:34:48 PM »

I cannot get the DFC to go any bigger... It's kinda hard to tell with the squiggly line but it appears to be stacking... The good news is you have lots of power in the beginning of your draw... When you take a straight line from the 9" dot to the 28" dot, 22" up to about 26" to 27" should not be touching the line... If it is, it is stacking early... In your DFC the line is definitely touching those numbers... In other wards you want big numbers in the beginning of your draw and little ones at the end of it...

I also have a new theory... In the 20" to 22" area you want a smooth transition... In your DFC is does not appear smooth... I call it a shelf... I have not fully proven it yet but I believe the smoother the transition the better the performance... But that is not something you really have to worry about yet... That comes down the line with fine tuning...

Shredd · « **Reply #29 on:** November 06, 2019, 05:51:51 PM »

I would also research that bow design... If it does not get good performance I would trash it and go with a design that is proven...

buckeyebowhunter · « **Reply #30 on:** November 06, 2019, 07:03:26 PM »

Shredd thanks for the help and info. I'm going to reread it a few more times and I'll have some more questions to follow. Here are the full draw pics. Sorry about the lighting.

buckeyebowhunter · « **Reply #31 on:** November 06, 2019, 07:15:17 PM »

Jess, I did not shorten limbs. Only the riser.

jess stuart · « **Reply #32 on:** November 06, 2019, 07:49:57 PM »

Did you use a .002 taper and a parallel? Looks like a nice looking bow bet it's gonna look awesome once the finish hits it.

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #33 on:** November 06, 2019, 08:09:41 PM »

That FDC looks pretty good to me. Maybe a little eratic. If you really want to get technical trace the limb bend at each in. and compare top with bottom limb. This checks limb timing. you sand the glass to get them both the same.

buckeyebowhunter · « **Reply #34 on:** November 06, 2019, 08:40:29 PM »

Thanks Jess! I will have to look at what the taper was again I honestly can't remember. Stic, what is the procedure for that? Tillering stic at each inch and trace the bend on grid paper?

monterey · « **Reply #35 on:** November 06, 2019, 08:58:03 PM »

The method you used to measure the draw weight is bound to result in some minor dips and bellys in the DFC. I think you got your numbers pretty well nailed though. Just looking at the numbers and not the dfc, it looks like a pretty good jump from 27" to 28". Maybe re measure the 25, 26, 27 & 28 inch marks.

Did you use tip wedges?

Shredd · « **Reply #36 on:** November 06, 2019, 09:13:41 PM »

I still would like to see the whole bow at brace... Hold it up just like the last two pics against that white block wall but at brace...

You never answered my question about your other bows that you are comparing to ( black widow)... Are they the same length?? How long are they??

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #37 on:** November 06, 2019, 09:27:28 PM »

Use tiller tree. Trace both ends at every inch. Then fold the paper in half and compare bending. I guess a big piece of tracing paper. Tying to acheive both limbs arrive at brace at the same time.

Sent from my LM-X410.F using Tapatalk

buckeyebowhunter · « **Reply #38 on:** November 06, 2019, 09:30:14 PM »

Monterey, what are tip wedges lol. Also what are power lams?

The bow I've been comparing to is my SA widow 58". 48# @ 28. The sa have a 16" riser I believe. I wish I had another take down to compare with. My only other bows are a Morrison ilf and an old bear kodiak hunter.

The old lady in bed now so the brace height pic is gonna have to wait

Shredd · « **Reply #39 on:** November 06, 2019, 09:51:39 PM »

Wake her up.... Tell her that it is very important...

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Author Topic: Limb Performance (Read 3153 times)

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