I posted this on another site. Much of it is pretty basic stuff, but thought it might be good to share for folks just starting out. This past 3D season I began using a technique referred to as gapping at the riser. Rather than envisioning the arrow 12 inches below the target at 15 yards this allowed me to see a very small (7/8") gap at the riser. Things went very well and I shot the best and most consistent scores of my life---with normal length arrows (I had been using longer arrows to shorten my point on). Well since no one was looking in the woods I even made a mark on my riser to remind me to hold lower, BUT---my brain misfires when I have a deer in front of me. After 40+ years of hunting I still get very excited and just put the point of the arrow on the deer---resulting in shooting high.
So the other day I played around quite a bit with arrows (just like any other day) and came up with what I consider a heavy arrow for my set up. I'm shooting a 44#@27" Toelke PIKA and the arrow I built was 516 grains or 11.72 gpp---this was as opposed to my normal 380 grain set up which, although performed well penetration wise, hit high. The 516 grain arrow gave me a point on of 20 yards and just about an inch high at 15, which is perfect for the brushy whitetail woods I hunt and my self imposed 20 yard limit.
I know there are other ways to reduce point on---fixed crawl---I've used it and don't like the out of time limbs that I get and more finicky arrows despite condiserable time tuning, a higher anchor is not an option for me---I use what works for me to best get into my back---index finger on canine tooth, I can buy longer arrows---34" black eagles or as I did with the carbon express, add aluminum to to them for 35", but they were a hassle on my bow quiver for my short bows, etc. The heavier arrow combined with the full length 32.5" Dark Timber just works for me.
I just wanted to share the trajectories to show those starting out an example of what length and arrow weight do to point on.
The arrows were full length Dark Timbers in 700 spine as stated with the exception of the carbon express Predator ii in 800 spine with a section of 1816 glued to extend length to 35". I thought tuning would be an issue, but the 700 tuned very well---broadheads and field points grouping with both set ups (maybe the trimmer line stiffened spine, maybe the slower arrow made the arrow act dynamically more stiff...?)
Arrow A---DT 380 125 tip 380 grains
Arrow B---CE 35" 125 grain tip 410 grains
Arrow C---DT 200 grain tip plus 2 strands of weed trimmer line 516 grains
Distance Arrow A Arrow B Arrow C
15 +12" +5" +1"
20 +9" +5" 0
25 +7" -1.5" -12"
30 -7.5" -16" -31.5"
As you can see, the arrow that worked very well for 3D, when I am able to process thought and set my gaps correctly, gave me a 12" gap at 15 yards. The hunting arrow at 516 grains took away any need for gap at my normal hunting ranges, but would really present some challenges out past 20 yards on the 3D line.
Yes, I know I could put a sight on my bow (as someone always kicks in), but that's not what I want to do. I had hoped to use the same arrow weight for 3D as hunting, but I'm wired a little differently than many---instinctive just doesn't work for me after years of practice, and I need a no brainer hard aiming system on deer ---the heavy arrow point on gives me that. Now all I do is drop 2 strands of weed whip line in the dark timber 700 for deer hunting, indoor 5 spot and indoor 3 league and add a 200 grain tip and I'm set. When spring comes and outdoor 3D starts I just take the trimmer line out and change over to a 125 grain tip.
Again, just wanted to share another option that folks could try if, like me they were struggling a bit.
Topic: Point on and trajectory (Read 1029 times)
