help with efoc build

[BearBandit]

Well all my stuff showed up.  I'll be working on building an arrow saw then on to playing with my new arrows.   I never thought I'd be building my own arrows but I'm pretty pumped.

[BearBandit]

Ok so here's what I'm working with
Victory gamer v3 rip xv 400
Ethics archery 185 grain insert outsert
And field points that range from 100 t0 200 grain

So I left the arrows full length and started with full insert weightStarted shooting at 15 yards arrows showed nock right so increased the weight up front.

Long story short I was shooting the 200grain points with 185 grain inserts before they started showing a slight weak spine.

I'm going to shoot a bit more before i make any adjustments and to confirm what I'm seeing but does this sound right?

45# super kodiak
10 strand ff string
29.5ish draw
How far should i be bareshafting at?

[BearBandit]

I should add arrows grouped well and I was hitting where I was aiming.  Started to open up as I got tired so I stopped but I'll go for another round after dinner.

[Joeabowhunter]

Your results sound about right to my experience.  Don't be in a rush to cut them down, those arrows are not overly long to start with.  Shoot the bare shafts as far as you are comfortable shooting.  The farther the better for really viewing the flight.  For reference I'm currently tuning a new arrow setup too.  Been bare shafting into my target, stump shooting and shooting through paper for several days to confirm a slight weak before trimming a 1/2" off. 
400 spine (250) CX Maxima hunter, 32" long, 100 gr inserts, 200 gr points from a 53 lb at my 28" draw Thunderhorn LB. 

[Tedd]

It is easy to cut too short because those heavy FOC arrows tend to correct themselves no matter what. But try that bare shaft out of a tree stand or a hard lean over or from sitting before you cut it off. Also put some fresh silencers on before cutting.
Trick - If you can shoot a broad head on a bare shaft and get it to fly straight at about 10-12 yards (which is possible with EFOC) then it is probably too stiff with feathers. An even slightly stiff shaft will hit left with broad heads (RH shooter)
Tedd

[BearBandit]

I'll shoot a bunch more before I commit to cutting.  I can go pull my self climber out and take some shots as well.  Thanks for the advice.
I was under the impression that you never bare shaft with a broad head.

I'm showing just slightly weak at the moment, I started at 10 yards, went to 15 and was still hitting where I was aiming at 20

[Tedd]

Correct...never shoot a broad head on a bare shaft! Unless you have a controlled test area, and at close range, with a previously well tuned shaft. I do it about once a year. I don't know if there is any value in it. But it is nice to see when you get it to fly. It's not something that is needed. Just something for thinking about. The left or right you are having will be exaggerated with the broad head.
Tedd

[BearBandit]

Well after shooting about 40 arrows today. Bare shafting I'm getting a consistent weak (nock left) I tried going down to a 175 and it was showing slightly stiff then back up to 200 and I get slightly weak consistently when I do my part.


I've also taken this opportunity to really focus on my back tension and expansion before my release.  Man you can sure tell when it all clicks together.  I had a couple ends where I was a afraid I blew the nock off my first arrow.  And they sure hit hard.

[skookuminak]

Nice work! I've also found it remarkable how much better penetrating and forgiving these kinds of setups are.  There are others with more experience than I have but to my mind slight weak bare shaft is perfect. Once you add the weight of feathers on the nock end you'll have effectively stiffened the dynamic spine and should be just about perfect. Best of luck with your setup.

[BearBandit]

Thanks for the advice,  I'm going to try some paper tuning hopefully today and make my decision tomorrow on leaving these full length or not