Osage tiller help

[The Ursus]

I think I just need to take a little off 4-5” past the fade on the upper limb to match the lower.  The tips are thicker/stiffer but might leave them that way unless further tillering suggests I remove material at the tips.  This is my first go at this style of bow.

[Flem]

You need one of Eric's tillering gizmo's
Looks like it's going to be a sweet bow!

[Pat B]

I think you are right about getting more bend just off the right fade but you could do a few scrapes through mid limb too. Gonna be a nice static recurve. 

[Possum Head]

I think you’re on the right track nice work!

[gifford, MO]

Nice looking bow, you're almost there.

[Alvey]

Think your right, a little on the right.  Nice looking bow! I’d like to see the finished product.

[The Ursus]

 [ Invalid Attachment ]
Here’s how it looks at full draw after taking a little more off of the upper limb.

[The Ursus]

[Pat B]

The outer 1/3 of each limb could bend a bit more especially the right limb. Full draw is where you truly see accurate tiller.

[Eric Krewson]

Way too much bend at the fade on the right limb.

The way to see anomalies in anything is to look at the object and squint, this makes things really stand out. An art teacher taught me this years ago when I was learning to paint my duck decoy carvings.

[Bowjunkie]

In my humble opinion, tillering advice shouldn't be offered without first studying a picture of the bow at rest, unbraced. Each limb's bend should be compared closely to its own profile at brace, not to how it compares to the other limb.

Along the way, it should be compared to the other limb for relative limb strength while drawn from the archer's fulcrum on the string, but not the other's bend shape... unless they started off identical, unbraced.

For all we know, unbraced, there may have been an area of reflex right there near the right fade that, correctly, made it look a little flat compared to the other limb. Maybe it was perfect as-was, but you were told to weaken it.

Maybe not too. Maybe the limbs are identical. Maybe you were given good advice. But how would we know?

For our best chance at responsible, accurate advice, it's in our own best interest to always start tillering threads off with an unbraced side profile picture.

It's a bit of a pet peeve of mine   

[Flem]

I would like to see an unbraced pic also. Curious how much, if any, set it has taken and where.

[Eric Krewson]

I disagree, you can have a bow that looks awful unbraced and perfect at full draw. If it isn't right at full draw nothing else matters. Sometimes we overthink this bow making stuff when it is a pretty simple process after all.

It is obvious at the low brace pic that this bow has some pretty good wood in it with few if any anomalies.

I just took the first shot out of my curent static recurve project, I came in from the shop for a coffee break. I thought I had matched billets when I picked them out of the pile, same rings, same dark color from being under my house for 15 years. As I cut the splices i realized one was red osage and one was yellow with completely different in hardness in the wood from piece to piece.

At the first shot I could tell the bow is a dog, my heat gun will be out shortly to change it into a rocket launcher.

My point is I was able to match randomly picked mismatched billets by having them perfect at full draw. I will do it again after I toast the limbs bellys a bit.

[Bowjunkie]

Define 'perfect'.

Define 'right'.

No bow looks aweful to me unbraced. They are what they are... each unique... perfect in their own right, each a baseline.  Making/forcing perfect, to the mind's eye, matching curves from irregular, dissimilar baselines is a basic mistake, imo.

I don't over-think it.

Yep, it's simple... as it should be.

Simple and easy aren't synonymous.

With respect.

[Eric Krewson]

You just like to argue Jeff, I just make bows, pretty good ones at that. I don't worry about shifting the neutral plane or any of the similar stuff folk like to banter around about ad nauseum.

I teach a lot of bow making, the quickest way to scare a newbie away from the craft is make the process sound complicated.

When someone makes the remark that I am doing it wrong I throw this in as a counter argument.

My bows have won between 10 and 12 national championships, I have lost count.

Between 40 and 50 state championships. Two of them were mine and two for my late wife.

Southeast regional 10 times at least, again two were mine.

Finished 2nd and 3rd in the IBO worlds.

Probably won a more than 100 smaller tournaments, I had more than a dozen.

Now tell me again what I'm doing wrong........

[The Ursus]

Thanks for the input here fellas, like I said, I’m still a fledgling bowyer at best.  I do agree that the upper limb bends more at the fade and maybe I’ll be able to make the lower match it.  The outer 1/3 of each limb could use some work too.  At this point, I’m just wanting the bow tillered correctly without much regard to finished draw weight since I missed that mark quite a while ago.  I intend on finishing this bow just for the experience.  Maybe I’ll get more pictures up later for comparison.
(Sorry to ruffle feathers with this thread, I hope we can all still be friends afterwards)

[Flem]

More pics would be awesome. Maybe a sequence of unbraced, braced and full draw.
Don't know how you are loading your pics, but if from a computer you can increase the file size up to
600kb's.

[Mad Max]

(Sorry to ruffle feathers with this thread, I hope we can all still be friends afterwards)

Every topic ruffles feathers,------------------------ NO big deal

[The Ursus]

Unbraced

[The Ursus]

Braced