Help in Designing a new bow

[arachnid]

Hi Guys.
This is a new design I'm working on. This is the first prototype, 18#, still needs to be tillered.
I used 0.003" taper, 15" riser And 17" power lam. The lam length is 64" . From the tets shots i did it shoots really nice (for a 18# bow).
I'm looking on more insight on these kinds of bows. Am I in the right direction? I thought of maybe induce more recuve to the tips but I don't know how it will effect the bow (less stability? More speed? Smoother draw?)

So before I build another one (a 40#) I'd love some more info.
Thanks in advance.

[Crooked Stic]

How does it look at full draw. And be sure your are not flexing anywhere that would pop you handle off.

[arachnid]

Here you go

[Flem]

Looks like Cupids bow. Better be careful where you shoot that
From here it looks like all the bending is happening at the first curve outside the handle, especially on the upper limb.

[arachnid]

The bend happening in the first curve is to be expected, am I not right?
Should I use more taper?

[Mad Max]

Is that fiberglass back and belly?
You need to get the belly glass going up the riser ramps.
Google "Wind Warrior Bow"

[arachnid]

The FG is on the back AND the belly.
The belly is a full length lam. There's a riser block inside.

[Mad Max]

Do you Have a Wind Warrior bow you are copping from or are you just winging it?
Try to find a picture of the Wind Warrior Bow @ full draw.

Brace and full draw look pretty good to me but I would like to see the Warrior Pic first.

[Crooked Stic]

I say get it tillered  do a DFC and chrono it see what you got. Maybe a tip wedge.

[beachbowhunter]

If it were me, I'd make the wedges a bit longer, to push out that first big bend just a wee bit more.

[Flem]

I searched and found some videos on the Wind Warrior. The first video I saw was distracting, all I could see was belly and I'm not talking about the Bow!
 If thats what you are aiming for, then your bends look to be about right. Still looks like a small portion of a long limb doing most of the work, to my unenlightened eyes.

[Mad Max]

These reflexed fade bows are made to bend a good bit out of the fades, this 50" NTN will draw to 31"

[Mad Max]

Yes a limb TIP wedge will make it bend better on the last 3rd of the limb.
I would stay with the .003 taper

[arachnid]

If it were me, I'd make the wedges a bit longer, to push out that first big bend just a wee bit more.

Do you mean make a longer power lam (to push the bend further from the fades)?

Yes a limb TIP wedge will make it bend better on the last 3rd of the limb.
I would stay with the .003 taper

Won't a tip wedge make it bend more at the fades (at the first curve)?

[Mad Max]

A tip wedge will make the last 3" of the limb (at the nock) closer to the string at brace compared to you braced picture, and because the tip wedge being stiffer it will make the last 3rd of the limb bend different, a little bit.
the last 6" of your tip is flatter than this picture

[arachnid]

OK, thanks for the tips.
How long and thick should I make the tip wedges?

And, do ou think I should make the power-lam a bit longer to push the bend furthur from the fades? (the current riser setup is 15" riser + 17" power lam)

[Mad Max]

about .125 at the nock, taper to .000
from the nock out 6"
that's all I would do to it.