Recurve Bow Limb Repair

[The Ole' Bowhunter]

I have a Fred Bear Takedown Recurve I've owned for 20 to 25 years and enjoyed shooting it very much as well as bowhunting with it.  A while ago, it de eloped a sliver-like delamination so I quite shooting it, hoping to get it fixed someday.  I'm looking for expert advice on how I should go about repairing the upper limb so I may once again shoot it. 

[Kamn]

It looks like a sliver actually came off and there is an end that has the potential to crack further. I would start at the part where there is a little bit left from the sliver and looks to potentially crack further by injecting some Loctite 420 into any cracks that are visible and then compress them until the glue has cured. As for the section with the sliver/edge missing, maybe someone has some good ideas how to finish that properly
I hope that makes sense

[Pat B]

I'm not a glass bow guy but I'd think super glue in that splinter along the edge like Kamn suggested and a sanding with fine sand paper. That would seal the splinter and prevent any sharp edges or points from snagging.

[Flem]

Looks like you either cut off or snapped off the splinter. I would feather that square edge back to distribute the stress or trap both edges for symmetry.

[Crooked Stic]

Flem said it. super glue the loose edge. then super glue in the part thats gone. Then when all cured sand both sides to be the same.

[bigbob2]

I have had two bows in recent years present with a longitudinal crack in the glass, and have effected a total repair by judiciously using heat gun and very sharp box cutter and completely replaced said glass. could be an option if it comes down to it.

[ztontonz]

I have had two bows in recent years present with a longitudinal crack in the glass, and have effected a total repair by judiciously using heat gun and very sharp box cutter and completely replaced said glass. could be an option if it comes down to it.

Could you elaborate on how you took off the glass? I am curious to see how it can be done

[bigbob2]

Any overlays  have to be ground back to the glass, and then starting from the tip , warm up first couple inches of glass you will  soon discover just how much heat is needed, its only to the point where it is almost uncomfortable to touch but not so much that heat radiates to laminations, then very carefully insert a boxcutter blade slowly under glass and inch it down along limb heating as you go It is essential that the blade doesnt meet the lamination under glass at an angle as that will bring up lam fibres. Once it gets started it becomes quite simple to continue down limb using said process and sometimes glass almost peels off like a banana skin. Hope this helps.

[bigbob2]

duh! forgot to mention you use a heatgun to warm the glass.

[ztontonz]

Thanks. I might give it a try one of these days

[bigbob2]

Operative thing is hasten slowly, getting the blade across full width of limb once you get it started.