Deepening your "cut to center"

[Huntschool]

Has anyone ever deepened (increased) their cut to center ?  Meaning brought the strike plate area to center on a bow that was just a bit (1/16" ++ or so) proud of center.

It does not seem like a big deal to be able to remove a bit of material with proper tools (which I have and am familiar with).

The bow in question is a light draw (36# @ 28") so its not a man killer draw weight that the structure might be compromised by such work as far as I can tell.

Just wondering......

[M60gunner]

I did it when reshaping my Bear SK from early 2000’s. When I lowered the shelf I got to aggressive with my Japanese saw. So I had to even it up and removed material from the side plate area. At least a 1/16” . Bow is 55@28. I will say this, it’s more tolerant to different spine shafts.  That bow fell with me down the side of a hill and except for some dings it still shoots well. The modification had no side effects.

[McDave]

The optimal position for the strike plate of a traditional bow shot with a finger release is where the centerline of the arrow is just outside of the centerline of the bow, which means that the shelf should be cut past center.  Sometimes, tournament rules dictate that the bow not be cut past center.  Other times, the structural integrity of the bow might be compromised.  The bowyer is the best person to ask about this.

[Huntschool]

M60gunner:

Thanks.... that is what I was looking for.

McDave:

I dont think the small amount of material I want to remove will create a structural problem to the bow.. I understand the positioning of the arrow and that is what I am going for.... a more center shot if you will.  I will not be shooting any events that require a specific center cut dimension or limitation....

Thanks again to both of you....

[R.V.T.B.]

The first Howard Hill bow I bought I struggled with at first, but then settled down with it after shooting it for a while.  I was shooting it very well but all of my arrows grouped 10-12 inches to the left (I am right handed).  That bow was cut quite a bit proud of center.  I removed the thick leather side plate and that moved the groups over some so I tried a very thin side plate.  Better but still not hitting where I was looking.  I called Craig out at HHA and with his blessings I slowly removed material from the side of the side plate.  That ebony was hard!  I removed a little, shot it, removed some more and shot it again.  I micced it with calipers as I went along and after several days shooting and removing about 3/32” the bow shot exactly where I was looking.  I refinished the sight window area and it is one of my best shooting long bows.  It is 60 pounds and I have been shooting it regularly for ten years.  Since then, I have taken in the sight window on several bows.

[Orion]

Certainly can be done, and, particularly on a light weight bow, you probably won't affect its strength/structural integrity much.

That being said, it's probably not necessary.  True, bows cut to or past center will accepter a broader range of spines, but I find bows cut proud of center to be easier to tune. Unless you're looking to shoot several different spines out of the bow, it's easier to just find the correct spined arrow for it.

If the bow is high value, you might want to reconsider.  Modifying the original specs will reduce it's value, particularly if you don't do a good job in the wood removal or refinishing. If not, and you like to tinker, have at it.

 

[blacktailbob]

I got this 1964 Safari II a year ago and it needed refinishing. I also noticed that the high spot on the shelf was a good bit forward of where it should have been on the radius. In the process of striping it down I re-cut the shelf to bring the top of the radius over the throat more where it should be and also took out maybe a 1/16 of the sideplate.
Before and after photos.
Awesome shooting bow.

[JohnV]

You will likely be violating any warranty the bow may have. It may also weaken the riser. Be a good idea to contact the bowyer and see if he has any concerns.

[Huntschool]

I was shooting it very well but all of my arrows grouped 10-12 inches to the left (I am right handed).  That bow was cut quite a bit proud of center. 

I checked  it with calipers as I went along and after several days shooting and removing about 3/32” the bow shot exactly where I was looking.

R.V.T.B:

Thats exactly the amount I think I need to remove.

In the process of striping it down I re-cut the shelf to bring the top of the radius over the throat more where it should be and also took out maybe a 1/16 of the side plate.

Bob:

Thanks.  Again 1/16-3/32" should get me where I need to be for the arrows I want to shoot.  By the way... great job on the work on that bow

Certainly can be done, and, particularly on a light weight bow, you probably won't affect its strength/structural integrity much.

That being said, it's probably not necessary.  If the bow is high value, you might want to reconsider.  Modifying the original specs will reduce it's value, particularly if you don't do a good job in the wood removal or refinishing. If not, and you like to tinker, have at it.

Orion:

The bow is not an inexpensive bow ($500.00 range).  Its well known maker but price wise it falls into the middle/upper middle in price.  Its really more of a flat bow then a long bow.  I doubt it will ever leave the house until I am gone and at that point a future owner may not care.

You will likely be violating any warranty the bow may have. It may also weaken the riser. Be a good idea to contact the bowyer and see if he has any concerns.

JohnV:

YYes, that would be correct but this bow is well over 10 years old and I would not expect any maker to run a warranty that long anyway.

[wood carver 2]

I look at it like this, how much wood will be left after thinning the sight window? If there is enough to maintain structural rigidity, then you’re good. I like to see at least 1/2”” to 5/8” of thickness there.
Dave.

[Huntschool]

wood carver 2:

Dave there will be a bit more then 1/2" after I get where I want to be.

Thanks.....

[buckeyebowhunter]

Does the bow have any reinforcing accent strips running through the riser, what is the material or type of wood the riser made from? More than likely it won't be a problem to remove that wood.

[Huntschool]

buckeyebowhunter:

The bow is all wood save for the final thin glass overlays.  The riser is walnut and the limb veneers are walnut.  I think there is a bamboo core in the limbs if I remember right.  It quite "snappy" for its style.  There are no reinforcing or accent strips in the riser.

[buckeyebowhunter]

I think you'll be fine since you're only going to center on a light poundage. I'd go for it. If it breaks it breaks Haha.  I doubt you'll have any issues.

[wood carver 2]

Here’s a bamboo, cherry, bamboo longbow I built several years ago with an all walnut riser. It’s marked 57#@ 28”. The throat is just over 5/8” thick and, as you can see, there’s not a lot of wood front to back.
With your light poundage bow, I would think that you’ll be fine.
Dave.

[Huntschool]

wood carver 2:

Thanks Dave.  I feel like there is plenty enough wood to work with.  Fact is the strike plate area (window) has a slight radius to it.  If I am careful (which I will be) the radius is all I will be working on. 

[Kelly]

There have been many a file taken to a bow to remove material in the sight window, more so years gone by than today. One still sees a trough that was filed into the sight window of older bows on eBay now and then.

Bruce, I’m sure taking a file to your bow won’t be a problem.

All that said, I find bows cut way past center, which seems to be all the rage these days, more difficult to shoot. I have to add way more and thicker strike plates in order to bring the arrow proud of center. Speaking specifically of bows cut proud of center I find that the computer sitting on top of ones shoulders will adjust your aim to bring the arrow in line, unless you are consciously using a specific point of aim method then your only choice is remove material or change your point of aim.

[Huntschool]

Kelly:

I am sure the "computer" needs to adjust a bit but the fact is I am somewhat of a split vision aimer.  So, yea, I need to move things in a bit. 

Did you get much of that storm last night ?

[Sam McMichael]

I know I'm not handy with tools, but it seems to me that it would be a lot simpler and less risky to tune the arrows to the bow.

[Huntschool]

Sam McMichael:

Sam this will be like using a good scraper as opposed to sandpaper on a fine piece of wood.  I have the scrapers, the sandpaper and several electric tools.  I really feel like the scraper will be the way to go.  I have used scrapes many times in the past on real ML rifles.  The finish come out quite good.

Thanks for the thought.