Issues with Natural feathers to Aluminum

[Ray Lyon]

I think Bohning SSR is the equivalent of the old Prep-rite. Instructions are the same. If I was using aluminum without wrap I would use Bohning products. 

[Stringwacker]

NPV

[JC Jr]

I prep my shafts the same as you (lightly sand and clean with acetone).  I've used Saunders NPV forever and NEVER had an issue on aluminums or carbons.

[Yellah nocks]

I buff with green scrubbie kitchen pad, wipe with acetone and allow to sit for a coupla minutes. Without touching the fletching area, I lightly spray Flat Matte Clear lacquer on the area and allow to dry for 20 mins or so. Fletching sticks like an ex spouse to your wallet!

[gordydog]

Fletch-tite platinum works for me after light shaft scratching with a skill knife, which also removes old glue and cleans up shaft.

[Broken Arrows]

Fletch tape with a dab of glue at each end and a small dab in the center, I also use wraps it make replacing the fletching way easer without damaging the arrow.

[Duncan]

Ditto on the Fletchtite

[JDunlap]

I use fletch tape and it works great with no prep at all.

[Jon Stewart]

Try putting your feather in the clamp and sand the quill down. I do this with all feathers as I like a thinner quill on a feather. Just maybe something got on the batch of feathers that you are using. And it can't hurt to sand them a touch.

[M60gunner]

I would try sanding the quill a little as well. Pretty much eliminated the glues and shaft material. Reason I mentioned wiping the quill was advice I got here about having issues using tape. So when I do use tape I wipe both the quill and shaft. Seems to work.

[Bruce M]

I got the Fletchtite Platinum a couple days ago and promptly fletched  4 arrows. I did everything my normal way besides sanding.
They've been curing for two days now and were ready to shoot today but I got home late from work and it'll have to wait until tomorrow.
I have a lot of high hopes with this stuff and I was just down in the shop kind of picking at the feather bases a little just to see if they would come off easily, The ones glued with CA glue did. But these didn't budge so fingers crossed and tomorrow I'll go out and try to purposefully knock a feather or two off.

Thanks for all of your help so far, good bunch of guys/gals here.

[dragonheart]

Easton changed the anodize process to make the newer shafts slicker for target removal.  What shafts are you trying to fletch?  I am using Bob Smith glue on a suggestion and I clean the shaft with acetone.  I am shooting some older xx75 and they do take the fletching much better than say the black new gamegetter.  I had to sand them.       

[dragonheart]

it is very hot and humid here and I never could get tape to work to my satisfaction, I wish it would for the convenience.   

[Bruce M]

Easton changed the anodize process to make the newer shafts slicker for target removal.  What shafts are you trying to fletch?  I am using Bob Smith glue on a suggestion and I clean the shaft with acetone.  I am shooting some older xx75 and they do take the fletching much better than say the black new gamegetter.  I had to sand them.       

I’m using new black anodized gamegetters   

I do have an old pile of gamegetters, when I get home I’m going to look for any differences. Do know about when it was that changed their process.

[dragonheart]

I have had difficulty with those also.  You might try the BOB SMITH Industries super glue Maxi-cure with the insta set accelerator.  You can buy it in a set.  It was suggested to me and is a thicker super glue.  I had to sand those shafts.  I remember the days of xx75 orange and original fletch titie in the white tube.  You had to let it set, but they were on there...

   

[dragonheart]

The older xx75 and gamegetter had a satin "rougher and pourus" finish to them.  My theory is that most people today who shoot aluminum are indoor target shooters in the overall archery realm, that is main market for Easton.  I was told they changed to create a more slicker finish easier to pull out of targets.  It has made it difficult for many glues to adhere with feathers.  Vanes do glue better.  I do not know the actual anodizing change, but if you just feel to touch an old xx75 or game getter vs. those today they are different and much slicker.  Guess would be more silicon in the finish.  My dad probably could tell me if he knew the make up, he has a degree in metallurgy and knows textbooks on anodizing.     

[dragonheart]

You can mix rustoleum can paint you can get a Lowes, lots of colors, and thin with paint thinner to the consistency of milk running off the shaft.  Cap dip them and then fletch with DUCO.  Duco is not a fast set so you will have to let them set to dry a bit.  Do not use ACETONE to thin Rustolem paint, that did not work....I think the super glue will work on the paint but dont hold me to that as I have only fletch the painted with duco.
 

[Hud]

Many years ago, Easton recommended cleaning aluminum oxidation, and oil from handling with Ajax. Put some on a paper towel and clean the end whether dipping in Bohning lacquers, or other vinyl lacquer, or when fletching. Rinse under water and allow to dry, and do not touch. Ajax will clean and remove oxidation, etc and is Easton's recommendation. It does not leave a residue like other detergents. Never had any problem in over 50 yrs.

[dragonheart]

Just curious have you tried to fletch the new black gamegetters? 

[Keefer]

NPV works great as McDave commented on earlier.